hey guys, i just ordered the ddm tuning hid kit 8000k 35w. i know that alot of you guys have those kits and i have a question. my hid kit i have in my truck is a bi-xenxon hid bulb and sometimes when i turn the kit on one of the bulbs will not fire right up i have to turn the lights off and then back on. then they would work fine. and yes it had a relay on it. on this new kit has anybody had a problem with only one hid coming and then having to turn the lights off and then back on.

 

Yes I have! If you read there QandA it will say sometimes you will have to wire them directly to the battery but I havent done it if it doesn't fire off the first time I just turn them off and fire them off again. No big deal to me LOL

 

My Retro Solutions used to do that as well. It just happens, I guess.

 

Sounds like you all are having the same problem here. The stock wiring is not heavy enough to carry the start-up wattage needed to fire the bulbs and you have to re-cycle them. What you need and I wish these HID conversion suppliers would suggest or include the fused and relayed wiring harness with their kits. The harness can be found here: http://hidpalace.com/HID-WIRING-HARN...FVZY2godjRDRyA . This is but only one suppler that is available out there. Eventually and slowly you will melt the stock wiring and/or destroy the ballasts for lack of available current for start-up. I know....been there, done that !! Save your trucks wiring..get the proper harness.

 

This is why I deal with xtralights.com. They are pricey but I've bought over 7 kits from them with no issues especially none of these.

 

well i changed out my 10 amp fuse to a 15 amp and i havent had any other problems

 

My RS still did it with a relay (just less than without). Granted, I had to eventually switch to a Bosch relay since the relay failed and kept my lights on all the time. Either way, that all stopped when I switched to VVME ballasts.

Are the DDM ballasts that you guys have "digital"? The RS were "digital", but the VVMEs are "analog". I'm wondering if the "digitalness" had something to do with it.

EDIT: As far as the above comment^ The fuse is there to protect the wiring. I'd switch it back before you melt some wiring, or worse...

 

directly from ddm tuning website
If sometimes one side does not turn on or it takes multiple tries for the HIDs to turn on, you may have a power issue. We would recommend trying a wiring harness. This will allow you to wire the kit directly to the cars battery. Sometimes if you bump your fuse by 5amps that can help as well. If the problem stays with one particular side, we would recommend swapping the bulbs or ballast from left to right and see if the problem follows. If this is the case, you may have a bad bulb or ballast.

If you have the HID Harness installed and are still getting intermittent firing, double check your power and ground cables. Make sure the terminal is touching the "threaded" part of the bolt and not just the head of the bolt.

 

I see. I thought you said in your original comment you went from a 10 to a 20 amp fuse. The wires have some safety margin, but don't think it's 100% more.

Either way, not sure how increasing the amperage capacity of a fuse would help if it's not blowing in the first place (unless there's a significant resistance difference between the two?) Either way, as long it worked for you, all is well

 

i thought it was a 20 amp but i went and looked at the package of fuses i bought and they was 15 amp fuses

 

My DDM bi-xenon come with a 20A fuse from them. I have never had a problem with only one of my lights firing up.

My fog lights are not connected directly to the battery, per say. I dont have an actually wiring harness, but I have my wiring routed from the battery to a switch for my fog lights, because I used to have an aux light set which i removed, and that wiring is not being used for ym fogs.

IMO, I would just submit a ticket to DDM, stating you believe one of your igniters in the ballast to be bad. Then go from there.

 

I always wire directly to the battery.....people that are having this issue is becuase the stock wiring does not provide enough power to allow the HID ballast to ignite the gas inside the bulbs. When they do ignite you are over exerting your stock wiring and this can lead to melting issues/permanent damage to your wiring harness.

Wiring directly to the battery also provides steady power to the HID ballast/igniter which will lengthen the lifespan of your HID kit. If anyone starts experiencing HID's not starting it can also be a sign your ballasts are getting ready to crap out and will need to be replaced.

 

Thank You for echoing what I said a few reply's back. The stock wiring on our trucks is very inadequate for the power necessary to fire the bulbs..once the bulbs are lit, all is usually well until the next time they are turned on. I have HID's in the heads and fogs...both sets are on their own dedicated harness. The only thing the stock wiring is used for is to trigger the ballasts to fire and burn. All done through their own relay and fuses

 

thanks guys i guess im going to try them and see how it works i will let you know

 

When you buy a bi-xenon kit from DDM tuning does it come with a harness to wire directly to your battery, or do you have to order that seperately? Also, I want to get fogs as well, from what I read it seems I DO NOT need a seperate harness for them ,correct?