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Replacing you rear axle seals and bearings
This helpful guide with ease the process of this difficult task with pictures, detailed intrusions, and tools needed to complete the task.
Read full discussion for further information
This helpful guide with ease the process of this difficult task with pictures, detailed intrusions, and tools needed to complete the task.
Read full discussion for further information
How to replace rear axle seals and bearings in your 04+ F150 (lots of pics)
#48
#49
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Georgia on my mind...
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Originally Posted by niceasssupercrw
When it comes to installing the axles do you put the c clamp on the axle then put it through the tube or put the axle through the tube then put the c clamp on through the diff? On my 95 bronco with the 8.8 the c clips went on after the axles were in.
Thanks
Thanks
#50
#52
Sorry about that...I was refering to the pads. Do they need to be replaced if they are contaminated with brake fluid?
#54
wow really thanks quinton. mine have been leaking for a while. this is going to help me out greatly. now i will just do them myself. lemme know if you are able to do a write up on the front shafts. one of them is leaking also. will be removing the spacers soon as well and then taking the rear blocks out to sit level.
#55
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Georgia on my mind...
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If they're contaminated, with anything, gear oil, brake fluid, blood from the guy you ran over earlier that day, then yes, they should be replaced. Good pads don't cost a fortune, and brakes aren't something to be trifled with; if in doubt, replace it.
#56
Thank you so much for taking the time to put this thread together.
I was doing my rear brakes and when I pulled my rotor off to get them turned I noticed the seal leaking. Had no clue on where to start except to take it to the deal and promise them my first born son. But with your info I think it is do-able.
I was doing my rear brakes and when I pulled my rotor off to get them turned I noticed the seal leaking. Had no clue on where to start except to take it to the deal and promise them my first born son. But with your info I think it is do-able.
#60
Quintin,
Thanks for the write up. I finished up mine this weekend. I actually did both seals, but I left the wheel bearings alone. (didnt have the bearing pullers) My drivers rear was leaking like a sieve. I was so bad that I could smell the burnt oil smell everytime i got out of the truck. The inside of the tire had oil all over it and the ENTIRE back inside of the rim was coated/caked in oil and dirt build up from the leaking oil. Took awhile to clean/scrape the gunk off of the rim. Was probably leaking for 10K miles.
I dont have a real garage (too darn small) so I did it on my back patio. Front I drove up onto heavy duty steel ramps, rear I jacked up one side at a time and supported each axle tube with a 6 ton jack stand, and left the jack under one rear side. This made the truck level and up in the air, so I had plenty of room to work.
Two helpful hints from the do-it-yourselfer:
1) Make sure you clean that diff cover real good and when you seal it and put it back together, wait at least one hour for the sealant to cure before adding the axle oil back into the differential. Last week I was rushed, so I had to add oil after only five minutes. I had a leak, and had to redo it this weekend (yesterday). That was a very expensive mistake because I used fresh oil. I used Mobil 1 full synthethic 75w-140 this time and saved 5 bucks a quart ($15 instead of $20 for the motorcraft)
2) Make sure you physically verify that the c-clips are back in place and the axles are pulled outboard with the clips in place. I did mine correctly, but I was second guessing myself all week since I was in a rush. Its not a good feeling to think that your axles might just fall out around a corner.
I also changed the transfer case fluid (piece of cake) and was gonna do the front diff, but, holey smokes, I have no idea how I would get the cover off without pulling ther whole differential out of the vehicle.
Thanks again for a great write-up. Next time I will do the wheel bearings as well.
Thanks for the write up. I finished up mine this weekend. I actually did both seals, but I left the wheel bearings alone. (didnt have the bearing pullers) My drivers rear was leaking like a sieve. I was so bad that I could smell the burnt oil smell everytime i got out of the truck. The inside of the tire had oil all over it and the ENTIRE back inside of the rim was coated/caked in oil and dirt build up from the leaking oil. Took awhile to clean/scrape the gunk off of the rim. Was probably leaking for 10K miles.
I dont have a real garage (too darn small) so I did it on my back patio. Front I drove up onto heavy duty steel ramps, rear I jacked up one side at a time and supported each axle tube with a 6 ton jack stand, and left the jack under one rear side. This made the truck level and up in the air, so I had plenty of room to work.
Two helpful hints from the do-it-yourselfer:
1) Make sure you clean that diff cover real good and when you seal it and put it back together, wait at least one hour for the sealant to cure before adding the axle oil back into the differential. Last week I was rushed, so I had to add oil after only five minutes. I had a leak, and had to redo it this weekend (yesterday). That was a very expensive mistake because I used fresh oil. I used Mobil 1 full synthethic 75w-140 this time and saved 5 bucks a quart ($15 instead of $20 for the motorcraft)
2) Make sure you physically verify that the c-clips are back in place and the axles are pulled outboard with the clips in place. I did mine correctly, but I was second guessing myself all week since I was in a rush. Its not a good feeling to think that your axles might just fall out around a corner.
I also changed the transfer case fluid (piece of cake) and was gonna do the front diff, but, holey smokes, I have no idea how I would get the cover off without pulling ther whole differential out of the vehicle.
Thanks again for a great write-up. Next time I will do the wheel bearings as well.