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Replacing you rear axle seals and bearings
This helpful guide with ease the process of this difficult task with pictures, detailed intrusions, and tools needed to complete the task.
Read full discussion for further information
This helpful guide with ease the process of this difficult task with pictures, detailed intrusions, and tools needed to complete the task.
Read full discussion for further information
How to replace rear axle seals and bearings in your 04+ F150 (lots of pics)
#107
2001 F-150 rear axle seals and bearings
Quintin,
I have a rear seal that is ruptured on my 2001 F-150, 2WD, 4.2L V6 with limited slip. I was hoping that these instructions are similar, if not identical to the 2004+ that you wrote about here. Can you confirm? I want to know first if I have the 8.8 or the 9.75 axle? Any idea? I just ordered a replacement differential Gasget and the guy thought that I should have the 8.8.
Secondly I wanted to know if my bearings replacement would be similar to what you have shown here? A guy at Goodyear seemed to think that the bearings were actually pressed into the axle and may need to be sent out to a machine shop for removal/installation. It would be cool if mine were just like this article.
Lastly I am having a loud hum in the rear end at speeds of 35 MPH and higher. Any clue what that is? I was thinking that it was the bearings but not sure. If I am going to be doing this repair on the right side, does it make sense to replace the wheel seal, bearings, brake pad and emergency drums on both sides or just the affected side?
Thanks!
I have a rear seal that is ruptured on my 2001 F-150, 2WD, 4.2L V6 with limited slip. I was hoping that these instructions are similar, if not identical to the 2004+ that you wrote about here. Can you confirm? I want to know first if I have the 8.8 or the 9.75 axle? Any idea? I just ordered a replacement differential Gasget and the guy thought that I should have the 8.8.
Secondly I wanted to know if my bearings replacement would be similar to what you have shown here? A guy at Goodyear seemed to think that the bearings were actually pressed into the axle and may need to be sent out to a machine shop for removal/installation. It would be cool if mine were just like this article.
Lastly I am having a loud hum in the rear end at speeds of 35 MPH and higher. Any clue what that is? I was thinking that it was the bearings but not sure. If I am going to be doing this repair on the right side, does it make sense to replace the wheel seal, bearings, brake pad and emergency drums on both sides or just the affected side?
Thanks!
#108
#113
Driver side seal was leaking. Replaced both today and filled with fresh 75W140 synthetic. I also added a little moly paste to the bearings and ring and pinion surfaces (it's OK because I have an open differential). These axles are idiot proof simple to work on. I used this guide for the torque values, thanks!
#114
#115
No, because I have an open differential, so there would be no point. That's also why I was able to add moly to the mix. Moly doesn't play well with any type of clutch material (such as the limited slip clutch packs). However, it is extremely well suited to extremely high pressure metal interfaces, such as are found in wheel bearings and differentials.
It's likely mostly a placebo effect, but it feels like the truck rolls so much easier now after lubing the bearings and differential with moly. Some day I'd like to put a Detroit Locker in there. They are much better than the stock limited slip, but I don't have money for that right now. If I do that, I'll have to get the moly out because the locker needs a certain amount of friction to operate correctly.
I used the Walmart brand full synthetic 75W140 gear oil. The old oil came out looking very clean, although the gears and differential were stained black. I had put a little moly in the old oil, so that was likely the cause. The hardest part was getting the old axle seals out.
It's likely mostly a placebo effect, but it feels like the truck rolls so much easier now after lubing the bearings and differential with moly. Some day I'd like to put a Detroit Locker in there. They are much better than the stock limited slip, but I don't have money for that right now. If I do that, I'll have to get the moly out because the locker needs a certain amount of friction to operate correctly.
I used the Walmart brand full synthetic 75W140 gear oil. The old oil came out looking very clean, although the gears and differential were stained black. I had put a little moly in the old oil, so that was likely the cause. The hardest part was getting the old axle seals out.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 04-04-2014 at 05:24 PM.
#117
#118
Sorry to bring this back up but I read through the whole thread and didn't find my answer. I have an 05 Lariat 2wd that has a rear axle leak on the driver's side and I found this thread. My question is why do you have to remove the axle shafts? I just need to replace the seals and I've already done the rotors a couple months ago. I can't remember correctly but if I just remove the rear drum would I have access to the leaking seal then? Also, lately after start up after its been sitting a while when I brake there is a squeaking noise, could it just be the leaking oil that causes this?
Edit: I figured it out, I strike my dumb question from the thread
Edit: I figured it out, I strike my dumb question from the thread
Last edited by greentitan05; 08-06-2014 at 10:41 AM.
#120