How to Fix a Defective Window Switch
#181
Great write up. I actually bought a new switch of eBay and have been using it for the past couple of years but the finish on the buttons and the leds didn't quite match by Harley's switches. I just cleaned my old factory switch that I had kept for some reason and tested it out and all is good. I'll save the newer switch and use my factory buttons from the original switch when it dies.
#183
Might want to check for a broken wire between the door and body inside the big rubber tube/grommet. My drivers side door lock switch would not unlock the passenger side but would lock it. Worked both ways on drivers side...Bought a new switch and still nothing...so I checked the wiring harness between the door...the pink/yellow wire coming from the door lock switch had been soldered back together by previous owner...it was apart...not much play in the wires but i was able to strip both ends and put a butt connector that's also shrink tube...put a piece of metal under the butt connector to protect the other wires, then used a heat gun on low. Also found another wire they soldered...did that one as well while I was at it...dont know where that wire went to. Ford needs to have more play in the wires and maybe they wouldn't break from repeated door openings. My Truck is a 2006 F-150 XL..
#184
Just for giggles I played with the override switch to lock out the other controls and then hit the rear window and it went up (thank goodness, before the incoming storms). I might have a bad contact in the over ride switch. When I talked with my local dealership they told me all the power goes thru the main drivers switches first, so I will play when it is not 90 plus degrees out and major storms aren't coming in. I just thought it was weird how it would go down but not up???? I will fill you all in when I get it resolved in case someone else has a similar problem. Thanks forum!
Jim
Jim