Clay Bar Question?

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  #16  
Old 11-26-2003, 05:52 PM
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Also, keep in mind that after claying, I feel it's necessary to re-wax your vehicle as well (and you might have to deal with some swirl marks if you really want to do it right...)
 
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Old 11-26-2003, 11:37 PM
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Originally posted by chinookdriver
Thanks for the info. I think i will just have to take it to a detailer every so often and have them do a proffesional job.
Just one caution to you regarding Professional detailers. Do not under any circumstances assume that because a guy is in the detail business that he is a professional. I've seen time and time again a car go to a Pro who returns it to the owner with a $200 bill and an infinite number of swirls (and in a couple cases, light scratches) in the paint. Like any occupation, there are those guys that are good and those that aren't. I'm like Rockpick, Boss_429, and many others out here, in that NO ONE but me touches my truck. I even specified with the dealer when I ordered my truck that it not be detailed on arrival, and if it was, I wouldn't take delivery. Trust me, you can learn to do every bit as good a job as the Pro's do. I have two decent Pro detailers that have shops close to my house, neither of which will agree to touch my truck, noting that they couldn't deliver the same detailing job that I had done. No matter how many hours you spend detailing your truck, when you hear that comment, it makes all the effort totally worthwhile.

-Mike-
 
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Old 11-27-2003, 12:01 AM
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Wow. Thanks so much for the info guys. Looks as though if i want to keep that great shine to my black truck im going to have to bite the bullet. Can someone email me a list of recomended products to use ie soap, wax, towels ect?
 
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Old 11-27-2003, 12:37 AM
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Originally posted by chinookdriver
Can someone email me a list of recomended products to use ie soap, wax, towels ect?
Not necessarily 'recommended', but these are some of the products I use on my truck, and I think they produce pretty good results.

To Wash:
Meguiar's Gold Glass Car Wash (Easy to find locally, and inexpensive)

Clay:
Meguiar's Detailer Line - Mild - 200gram
Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash and water as Lube

Towels:
Waffle Weave MF to dry
Terry MF to remove polish/wax

Polish:
Meguiar's #9 (to remove swirls and light scratches)
Meguiar's # 7 Show Car Glaze (to add depth)

Wax:
Meguiar's #26 Yellow Wax (a couple coats at a time)

Quick Detailer:
Meguiar's Final Detail (Best stuff on the market IMO)

External moldings:
303 Protectant (Great stuff)

Wheels:
Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash (and elbow grease)

Tires:
Meguiar's High Endurance High Gloss Tire Gel

To remove dried on Bird Droppings:
Poorboy's World - Bird Sh#t Remover

Notice a trend in the products I use. This is only a sample of everything I have in the detailing cabinets in my garage, but all of these products do a super job.

Here's my truck after some attention with the aforementioned products.



Good luck with your truck.

-Mike-
 

Last edited by BigDeal; 11-27-2003 at 12:40 AM.
  #20  
Old 11-27-2003, 10:19 AM
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I see the trend...
 
  #21  
Old 11-27-2003, 10:36 AM
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Me too!

BigDeal,

Just an FYI............ if you like the 303, you may want to try Poorboy's Natural look someday. Performs similar to the 303, smells better, and is about $4 a bottle cheaper! Nice stuff too! I REALLY, REALLY like it on interior vinyl!
 
  #22  
Old 11-27-2003, 11:02 AM
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Originally posted by Boss_429
Me too!

BigDeal,

Just an FYI............ if you like the 303, you may want to try Poorboy's Natural look someday. Performs similar to the 303, smells better, and is about $4 a bottle cheaper! Nice stuff too! I REALLY, REALLY like it on interior vinyl!
By interior vinyl, would you say this stuff would work well on dashboards and interior door panels? That's where I really like the 303. Do you think the Natural Shine has as good a UV inhibitor as 303?

There's a couple Poorboy's products I haven't tried yet, but want to. I'll have to add the Natural look to my list. Thanks for the recommendation.

-Mike-
 
  #23  
Old 11-27-2003, 12:29 PM
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Originally posted by BigDeal
Not necessarily 'recommended', but these are some of the products I use on my truck, and I think they produce pretty good results.............Good luck with your truck.

-Mike-

alright! thanks. I guess it takes you guys a whole day to wash and polish your trucks eh? Now you guys only do the waxing you said every few months...so as far as in between washes wash and dry is ok?
 
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Old 11-27-2003, 01:00 PM
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Originally posted by chinookdriver
alright! thanks. I guess it takes you guys a whole day to wash and polish your trucks eh? Now you guys only do the waxing you said every few months...so as far as in between washes wash and dry is ok?
Every few months “may” be the case but let me be the first to say that once you start doing it yourself regardless how long the wax/polish may last you will be doing it more often then every “few” months.

It’s a type of addiction you get. I use Zaino and it can last a good 4 – 6 months no problem, with no additional coats needed. During winter I may not be able to polish often because of how cold it is. When it is warm out and even though the Zaino will last 4 – 6 months, I find myself putting on additional coats usually once a month.

It’s an addiction so beware…
 
  #25  
Old 11-27-2003, 02:31 PM
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I'm with 01XLT SPORT on that addiction stuff..... I too use Zaino and usually put a coat of two on every month or so......... Then during the winter months, I don't worry about it cause I know the protection is gonna last til spring........ still, if I find a pretty day during cold weather, I'll still get out there and put another coat on!!!!
 
  #26  
Old 11-27-2003, 06:38 PM
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hey rp-

thanks for the info. i just had a chance to look here again.

i'm still trying to decide how much of the entire detailing part i want to do. but after spending several hours working on that truck, and seeing the shine...it really does become an addiction.

besides, i'm planning on having the musicbaby (i know, in several years) help me out with the work
 
  #27  
Old 11-27-2003, 07:48 PM
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Originally posted by chinookdriver
alright! thanks. I guess it takes you guys a whole day to wash and polish your trucks eh? Now you guys only do the waxing you said every few months...so as far as in between washes wash and dry is ok?
Nah, far from all day. I mean, if I really wanted to do a cracker jack job, I think I could do it all from A-Z in about 5 hours but, my typical regime consists of about three coats of 'stuff' across the entirety of the vehicle, wheel wells, door jams, and glass... takes me about 2.5 hours.

The key is to do that 5-10 hour trick once and maintain it such that you don't have to do it over and over each time.

MusicMan,

Glad to help!

-RP
 
  #28  
Old 11-28-2003, 02:10 AM
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clay bar

Clay bar removes surface contamination only not the embedded
particals. If you would like to remove embedded particals you will have to use a liquid fallout remover.(oxcilic acid)
 
  #29  
Old 11-28-2003, 10:55 AM
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Claybars ARE used for safely removing imbedded particles in glass and painted surfaces, such as rail dust, and brake dust etc.

I am not sure how safe it is to use an acid on glass and painted surfaces. I would surmise it is not as safe as clay when properly used.

Here is an excerpt from Zaino:

Quickly and safely removes contamination. Makes your paint feel smooth as glass!

Z-18 ClayBar™ is a pliable, synthetic bar that quickly and safely removes imbedded contamination from all glass and painted surfaces. Used for years by automobile manufacturers and auto body shops, paint cleaning clay is an excellent choice for removing contamination that cannot be removed using conventional cleaning methods.

Z-18 ClayBar™ is non-abrasive and works like no cleaner, compound or chemical can. When used as directed, it is safe for use on all paint finishes.
Use Z-18 ClayBar™ to help remove the following:

1. Rail dust - Tiny, sharp bare metal shavings that can adhere and imbed into the paint finish and cause serious damage when left untreated. Over 70% of new vehicles are transported from the factory using the rail system. In many cases, new cars are stored near a railroad and becomes infected with rail dust.

2. Brake Dust - Similar to rail dust, brake dust is also in the form of tiny, sharp metal shavings. In recent years, asbestos brake pads were replaced with metallic brake pads, which are actually brake pads made from tiny metal or metallic shavings. Anytime a vehicle is braking; brake dust is disbursed into the air and onto the paint finish. Since the brake dust is now actually tiny particles of bare metal, this form of brake dust can seriously damage the paint finish when left untreated.

3. Industrial Fallout - A general term used for pollution and can be found in many forms. Eventually, pollution settles onto the paint finish of all vehicles and can cause serious damage when left untreated.

4. Tree Sap, Road Tar, Bug Residue, Paint Overspray, and Acid Rain Deposits -- These contaminants adhere to or imbed into the paint finish. Left untreated, they will cause permanent damage to your car's paint work by staining and weakening the protective properties.

Z-18 ClayBar™ is highly recommended as the ultimate way to clean and prepare your car's finish prior to using the Zaino Show Car Polish system.
EDIT: I should note that any good clay bar will do the same.
 

Last edited by 01 XLT Sport; 11-28-2003 at 10:59 AM.
  #30  
Old 11-28-2003, 11:43 AM
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Embedded particals (particals that have etched into the paint)cannot be removed by clay you will be able to get the surface smooth but that does not mean it is all gone. liquid fallout remover is safe on glass and paint and the only way to fully remove all contaminants
 


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