Mr. Clean Magic Eraser + 04 F150 Door handles = F$%#!!!
#31
good luck and make sure you post some pics to show us what they turned out like painted the truck colour. i know i like my 2003 handles painted the same as the truck. i was thinking of painting the tailgate handle, bed rail caps and front valance as well. ( might be too much blue thou )
have fun
have fun
#32
dzervit,
Check out PaintScratch.com. They have a good reputation for providing paint that matches the factory colors well. They even have rubberized primer for non-metal surfaces. I recently ordered a kit from them so that I can try to paint my mud guards Az. Beige. I was inspired after reading some posts from MikeF150, who successfully painted his mud guards on his King Ranch. Here's a good post where he describes how he did it:
King Ranch Mud Flaps ?
Hopefully, I'll be be able to make the attempt on my mud guards within the next two weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.
Check out PaintScratch.com. They have a good reputation for providing paint that matches the factory colors well. They even have rubberized primer for non-metal surfaces. I recently ordered a kit from them so that I can try to paint my mud guards Az. Beige. I was inspired after reading some posts from MikeF150, who successfully painted his mud guards on his King Ranch. Here's a good post where he describes how he did it:
King Ranch Mud Flaps ?
Hopefully, I'll be be able to make the attempt on my mud guards within the next two weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.
#33
#34
dzervit,
Hey have you tried Mothers Back-To-Black? I used the Magic Eraser by Mr. Clean then I used the Armorall Cleaning whipes to get up all the residue that the Magic Eraser left. I had the same problem you did, the door handels and all the other outside black plastic (such as the bumper) was very dull just like yours. So I went out last night and bought Back-To-Black by Mother at Wal Mart and it worked fantastic. My handles and bumper look brand new, with the exception of the dent that I have to get fixed
- Chris
Hey have you tried Mothers Back-To-Black? I used the Magic Eraser by Mr. Clean then I used the Armorall Cleaning whipes to get up all the residue that the Magic Eraser left. I had the same problem you did, the door handels and all the other outside black plastic (such as the bumper) was very dull just like yours. So I went out last night and bought Back-To-Black by Mother at Wal Mart and it worked fantastic. My handles and bumper look brand new, with the exception of the dent that I have to get fixed
- Chris
#35
My 2 Cents
I'd also recomend not using the ME in the interior...my girlfriend got some kind of black stain on the glove box that just wouldn't come off with anything else....I used the ME on the glove box...I got the stain out, but it also gave a slight discoloration to the vinyl.
OK back to the painting part...for starters, I'd check out the "HOW-TO" on painting your tailgate handle here...
It's what I followed for my tailgate handle...
As for starters, I'd just do the tailgate handle just because it's the easiest to get to and should be the same process no matter what you're painting (tailgate handles, door handles, air dams) You can get your learn on...
As for paint, try your local autoparts store (Pep-boys) and check out Plasti-Kote's product line of touch-up paints (color matched of course)! They should have 10 oz spray paint cans in the color you need...be sure to pick up the primer, base coat and clear coat (ALL from the SAME COMPANY)....mixing brands is not a good idea as some companies use different chemicals which may not be compatible with each other. @ $5-8 a can, it should set you back about $25 for materials (+ sandpaper). (They have larger can sizes too).
The trick to getting the paint to stick to the plastic is sanding the surface smooth and using the proper primer. Give the folks at Plasti-Kote a call and ask for their recomendation.
Once the last coat of clear is dry (be sure to put on 2-3 coats), hit the surface with some 1000+ wet sand paper. You don't want to rub too much, just hit the imperfection spots/dimples/raised areas/dust particles. Follow this up with some 3M rubbing compound to shine it up and take out the scratches. Hit with your favorite polish/wax combo.
Tony
OK back to the painting part...for starters, I'd check out the "HOW-TO" on painting your tailgate handle here...
It's what I followed for my tailgate handle...
As for starters, I'd just do the tailgate handle just because it's the easiest to get to and should be the same process no matter what you're painting (tailgate handles, door handles, air dams) You can get your learn on...
As for paint, try your local autoparts store (Pep-boys) and check out Plasti-Kote's product line of touch-up paints (color matched of course)! They should have 10 oz spray paint cans in the color you need...be sure to pick up the primer, base coat and clear coat (ALL from the SAME COMPANY)....mixing brands is not a good idea as some companies use different chemicals which may not be compatible with each other. @ $5-8 a can, it should set you back about $25 for materials (+ sandpaper). (They have larger can sizes too).
The trick to getting the paint to stick to the plastic is sanding the surface smooth and using the proper primer. Give the folks at Plasti-Kote a call and ask for their recomendation.
Once the last coat of clear is dry (be sure to put on 2-3 coats), hit the surface with some 1000+ wet sand paper. You don't want to rub too much, just hit the imperfection spots/dimples/raised areas/dust particles. Follow this up with some 3M rubbing compound to shine it up and take out the scratches. Hit with your favorite polish/wax combo.
Tony
Last edited by TonyPTX; 09-20-2004 at 07:51 PM.
#36
I should have taken a picture before I used the Mothers but I'm a dumby but here is what my bumper looks like after using the Mothers. My bumper looked even worse then your handles after using the Magic Eraser, and yes this is after it was completly dry. After sitting all day today in the sun it hasn't changed one bit so it's something I'd try if you wanted to keep your handles in their original state.
- Chris
- Chris
#38
Originally posted by RockPick
Thanks for posting that link Tony!! I think I'm going to have to give that a whirl....
Thanks for posting that link Tony!! I think I'm going to have to give that a whirl....
Tony
Last edited by TonyPTX; 09-21-2004 at 12:06 AM.
#39
FordTruckMan82 - I think that would only mask the issue. I use Forumula 303 after a wash and it has the same effect... until it gets wet and rinses most of the product off. D'oh! The plastic is screwed.
TonyPTX - Your my hero. Thanks for the tips, I think I'm going to give painting a whirl. My only concern now is sanding down the little dimples. Worst case I destroy a handle and have to order a new one. Tailgates are cheap at $20 a pop!
Since you mentioned it, I would like to rig a electronic lock for my Undercover hard shell cover. Those two seperate locks are driving me insane!
TonyPTX - Your my hero. Thanks for the tips, I think I'm going to give painting a whirl. My only concern now is sanding down the little dimples. Worst case I destroy a handle and have to order a new one. Tailgates are cheap at $20 a pop!
Since you mentioned it, I would like to rig a electronic lock for my Undercover hard shell cover. Those two seperate locks are driving me insane!
#40
You're own your own as far as the wiring goes, but don't fret, the guys over at Truck Gadgets will give you all the instructions you'll need w/ the kit.
Don't worry about the "bumps", they sand right off just like if it were a piece of wood and it's not all that complicated really. At least I didn't ask you to break out the plasma cutter/torch and MIG welder to shave your handles off.
Be sure to take plenty of photos for us nosey guys
And if I must state for the 50th millionth time....TAKE YOUR TIME and read all the directions on all the cans. Most bad paint jobs are the result of bad prep and cutting corners.
Tony
Don't worry about the "bumps", they sand right off just like if it were a piece of wood and it's not all that complicated really. At least I didn't ask you to break out the plasma cutter/torch and MIG welder to shave your handles off.
Be sure to take plenty of photos for us nosey guys
And if I must state for the 50th millionth time....TAKE YOUR TIME and read all the directions on all the cans. Most bad paint jobs are the result of bad prep and cutting corners.
Tony
Last edited by TonyPTX; 09-21-2004 at 04:42 PM.
#41
New problem. Neither Duplicolor or Plasti-Kote make Arizona Beige spray cans yet. Both just have the little 1oz touch up bottles.
Other ideas? How do body shops obtain the paint to match? Wonder if I can get the local shop to mix me up a batch? I have access to the tools to paint via air gun if nessesary.
Other ideas? How do body shops obtain the paint to match? Wonder if I can get the local shop to mix me up a batch? I have access to the tools to paint via air gun if nessesary.
#42
#44
#45
Try Mothers Back to Black? I found this product about a year ago and used it on the running boards on my 4-Runner. It cleaned six years of Armour all abuse from the running boards. They were almost white. I was very impressed! I knew better than to put the liquid death on my plastic but I did it anyway, and the mothers really worked. I now use it on the running boards and bed trim on my supercrew. They still look nice after two years.
Just a thought!
Just a thought!