Mr. Clean Magic Eraser + 04 F150 Door handles = F$%#!!!
#61
JD
What I'm saying is that it's OK to put on more than one coat, and no, the first coat of clear is NOT the final coat. What I'm saying is that you want enough clear applied during each coat to throughly cover the entire part. Apply as many coats as you desire (assuming you wait the appropriate drying time between each coat).
As an example, say I was painting something that was "black" to "white." On my first coat of white paint, there may be certain spots that still have black showing through....this is OK because I will cover up that spot of black with another coat of white paint once my first coat is dry.
The analogy here to clear is that the previous "black" spot would be very bumpy, where as the other spots that got enough clear will be somewhat smooth. Applying another coat of clear will not remove the "bumpiness." It can only be removed via wet sanding. So in essence, apply enough clear to prevent the "orange peel" bumps, w/o overdoing it and making it runny. It's one of those skills that can only be picked up via practice.
So before you shoot your first piece, get some cheap paint (and clear coat) from your local hardware store and practice till you find the right combination of too dry and too wet.
T
What I'm saying is that it's OK to put on more than one coat, and no, the first coat of clear is NOT the final coat. What I'm saying is that you want enough clear applied during each coat to throughly cover the entire part. Apply as many coats as you desire (assuming you wait the appropriate drying time between each coat).
As an example, say I was painting something that was "black" to "white." On my first coat of white paint, there may be certain spots that still have black showing through....this is OK because I will cover up that spot of black with another coat of white paint once my first coat is dry.
The analogy here to clear is that the previous "black" spot would be very bumpy, where as the other spots that got enough clear will be somewhat smooth. Applying another coat of clear will not remove the "bumpiness." It can only be removed via wet sanding. So in essence, apply enough clear to prevent the "orange peel" bumps, w/o overdoing it and making it runny. It's one of those skills that can only be picked up via practice.
So before you shoot your first piece, get some cheap paint (and clear coat) from your local hardware store and practice till you find the right combination of too dry and too wet.
T
#63
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
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Wow, looking good so far! As for sanding, I would not touch it with less than 1200-1500 grit if you're hand polishing. You could end up going through the clear before you get the sand scratches out. I have had good success with spray bomb type paint, by only using a cleaner wax to bring out the shine. You get the shine, without removing much clear. I have started with a rough dry looking finish, and made it look like factory paint, with only a terry cloth rag and blue Zymol wax. Takes bit of elbow grease and patience, but it will work.,,,,98
I haven't painted in a few years, but someday soon I will have to start doing it again. Got about ten years bodyshop experience all told.
I haven't painted in a few years, but someday soon I will have to start doing it again. Got about ten years bodyshop experience all told.
#64
#65
Ok, I'm looking at a jam packed weekend, and possibly the last one that will have tempratures that are painting-friendly. I think I'm going to yank the passenger doors apart tonight, sand, and prep for painting tomorrow, then rip off the drivers doors Saturday. If all goes well, Sunday I should have 4 pretty door handles.
Plenty of pics will be posted.
Plenty of pics will be posted.
#66
#67
Originally posted by dzervit
Ok, tomorrow is D-day. From what I gather, I have 4 screws (two on bottom & two behind the handle), then just push up on the door panel to dislodge it from the door?! I'm so scared! I don't want to bust any clips or have a rattle when it all goes back together!!!
Ok, tomorrow is D-day. From what I gather, I have 4 screws (two on bottom & two behind the handle), then just push up on the door panel to dislodge it from the door?! I'm so scared! I don't want to bust any clips or have a rattle when it all goes back together!!!
Good Luck,
Tony
#68
#70
#71
Originally posted by dzervit
The garage thing is no big deal, I was going to cover & tape the holes in the door. But this whole can't shut the door thing concerns me. why can't I shut it? I guess I really won't know until I get into the door and start playing around...
The garage thing is no big deal, I was going to cover & tape the holes in the door. But this whole can't shut the door thing concerns me. why can't I shut it? I guess I really won't know until I get into the door and start playing around...
I'm just going back and thinking about the tailgate mechanism and how you couldn't shut your tailgate when you pulled the handle and bucket off. (well at least I couldn't on my '03). Had I shut the tailgate, it would have been a major beatch to get open again.
Remember....
Plan your work....then work your plan.
Tony
Last edited by TonyPTX; 10-09-2004 at 10:42 AM.
#72
Well, I tore into my doors like a fat kid into a box of twinkies.
Fun facts for those who care:
There are 5 screws securing the rear door. The two at the bottom, the two hidden behind a panel in the interior door bucket, then a 5th sneaky bastard you need to yank off the armrest trim piece to get at. Then, it's as easy as lifting UP on the door panel then out. You'll need to dislodge the bucket from the door via one easy snap/clippy thingy.
The front door is almost the same, but you need to take out the bottom speaker, then rip out two of the four speaker mounts. You'll know what I'm talkin' about it you ever do it.
Anywho, I got the passenger side out & taped up. It did rain today. Stupid rain. But the temps are good and humidity decent, so I'm priming right now... waiting to dry for the 2nd coat.
Fun facts for those who care:
There are 5 screws securing the rear door. The two at the bottom, the two hidden behind a panel in the interior door bucket, then a 5th sneaky bastard you need to yank off the armrest trim piece to get at. Then, it's as easy as lifting UP on the door panel then out. You'll need to dislodge the bucket from the door via one easy snap/clippy thingy.
The front door is almost the same, but you need to take out the bottom speaker, then rip out two of the four speaker mounts. You'll know what I'm talkin' about it you ever do it.
Anywho, I got the passenger side out & taped up. It did rain today. Stupid rain. But the temps are good and humidity decent, so I'm priming right now... waiting to dry for the 2nd coat.
#75
Originally posted by 98SCREAMER
I know they're already quiet, but some dynamat would make it even quieter? I mean you're already going to have all four door panels off anyway? Might as well do some sound deadening while you're in there?,,,,98
I know they're already quiet, but some dynamat would make it even quieter? I mean you're already going to have all four door panels off anyway? Might as well do some sound deadening while you're in there?,,,,98
And I just might do it considering I RAN OUT OF %*@(@( PAINT, and my passenger handles & buckets need a touch-up coat of paint before I can CC them! Not only that, but I think the humidity was a tad high last night and one handle dried with a hazy look and needed sanding and a complete re-do. So no I have NO PAINT AND HANDLES I CAN'T PUT BACK ON!!!
AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHH HH!!!!