Calling the detailing gods- that means you RP!

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Old 03-11-2005, 01:16 AM
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Calling the detailing gods- that means you RP!

Alright, the time has come for me to detail my truck and I need some opinions. I know most of you are advocate users of the Porter Cable polisher, but my Dad just bought a pneumatic orbital from Griot's Garage. Here's the link:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2060&SKU=11123

Anyway, I was wondering if any of you have experience with this type of polisher and if it truly is safe to use on my paint, like the website claims. Like the PC, the pneumatic has various speed settings, but there are no numbers to refer to. It's simply a **** that forces you to guesstimate how fast the thing is spinning. I'm not going to use the polishes that come with it, I've already seen the results of NXT so I'll be purchasing a bottle of that instead. As far as pads go, my dad bought the ones that are in that website picture. Are they any good or should I buy another brand? What do you guys think?

-Craig
 
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Old 03-11-2005, 01:36 AM
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Those pads look pretty good from what I can see in the picture. You'll have to be the judge once you try them out though. I would highly suggest getting a MF bonnet (Meguiars Ulitimate Bonnet) to remove the NXT Tech Wax you said you plan on using. The MF bonnets leave and incredible shine that I feel you can't achieve by hand. Good Luck
 
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Old 03-11-2005, 03:03 PM
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I would not take it over the PC.

IMO, for that kind of money you could set yourself up nice with a PC, quality pads, bonnets and money left over for better products....
 
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:01 PM
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theantiriced,

Not "GOD" here............ but I'll give it a shot!

I've never used that particular buffer. However, for many, many, many, many years (yes RP, I am old ) all I used were pneumatic "rotary" buffers. Here are some pros and cons.

Pros......

It should be smaller and lighter than an electric orbital buffer (like the PC). That will help you get in and out of tight spots a lot easier. It is also far less fatiguing, especially on vertical surfaces.

I also like the fact that the smaller head size allows you to control the unit with the palm of your hand, while your other hand controls the air hose. (see "cons" below) Having the head of the unit in your palm will give you great control and "feel" for the machine and how it is working the product on the surface of the paint. You'll see what I mean when you get use to it.

Provided you have a good compressor, it will give you "infinite" speeds (with a maximum of course). This allows you to find the perfect "speed sweet spot" for a given pad and product combination.

Cons.......

Pneumatics are generally very "NOISY"! Not sure how loud that one is though?

The air hose is a bit cumbersome to use until you get the hang of it. Keep it away from the paint.

Some Tips:

Make sure that the compressor you have is not underpowered or overpowered. If it is overpowered, make sure you can adjust the compressor air pressure just under max the machine can handle. If you cannot adjust the compressor, get an adjustable, inline air pressure regulator. Trust me, if you run a pnuematic tool with to much air pressure for even a short period of time, you will "smoke" it! Even worse, it can be dangerous!

If the only thing you are going to use it for is the NXT.......... that would be a shame, as you will be missing out on the fine surface prep capabilities of the machine. As a matter of fact, the Griot's #3, and #2 polishes are very good polishes (haven't tried the #1). The #3 is a very good final polish for bringing up the gloss before your wax or sealant. The #2 is a decent light swirl remover, and I would use it if needed.

Use slow speeds for applying removing waxes and sealants. If you use the polishes, (and you should) use considerably higher speeds for working them. However, work "up" to the those speed gradually.

In the end, if that is a good quality buffer and you have everything set up correctly, it will do everything the PC can do once you get the feel for it................... and will probably do even more than the PC!

Let us know how it works out.
 
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:23 PM
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Originally posted by Boss_429
theantiriced,

Not "GOD" here............ but I'll give it a shot!
You, however, have taught me the majority of what I practice. There are thousands of folks out there on the web that preach about detailing and claim to know loads of stuff. Some of them even put out videos promoting their products that are so hideous that they're a disgrace to the detailing profession.

Boss has guided me through oodles of products and projects and has always been beyond professional.

Boss is well above me within this automotive detailing scene folks. Take note when he talks; I certainly do.

RP
 
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Old 03-12-2005, 04:21 PM
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Thanks Boss, and everyone else who replied. I wasn't just going to use the polisher for NXT, I'll be doing the enitre clay bar, polish, wax process. . . which brings me to another question. I can't seem to remember the Meguires polishing products I should use. I know that #26 wax followed by a coat of NXT has worked well for some, but what polish should I use? Also, is there any place I can buy the professional quality Meguires products (like #26) besides the internet?

-Craig
 
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Old 03-12-2005, 05:55 PM
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RP,

Thanks again for the kind words!


theantiriced,

You are more than welcome!

Now for your questions.........

First, I would put #26 on "before" NXT. I would apply a coat of NXT, let it sit overnight/24 hrs (or at least a few hours), and apply another coat. Let it go a couple of days and see how you like the look. If you want to change the look at bit or compare it to #26............. just apply a coat of #26. You can just do a 1/2 a panel or so for comparison if you want.

Next, don't forget.......... the Griots polishes are pretty darn good polishes and I would use them. Anyhow, as a reference, the Griots #3 is a bit less aggressive than Meguiar's #9, and the #2 is a bit more aggressive than the #9....... at least from what I can remember. Therefore, if you wanted similar Meguiar's products, you would probably want the #9, and a bit more abrasive product like #80 (Speed Glaze).

To find a dealer for the Meguiar's Pro line of products, try this page. Enter your Zip and make sure you select "Professional Products"

http://www.meguiars.com/DealerLocato...r_template.cfm

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 03-12-2005, 06:43 PM
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Thanks Boss, you've been a big help. As far as polishing goes, I'm probably going to have to start with an abrasive one and then move to a less abrasive one as my truck hasn't been detailed in over a year. I know, I know, I'm usually better about keeping up on it, but I just ahven't found time. I know it's hard for you to tell me the exact products I should use without actually seeing my paint, but let's just say that it's in reasonably bad shape. The truck is black and swirl marks are prominent. There are also a few nasty scratches I need to try to get out. Knowing this information, would you still use the #80 and then the #9, or recommend something else?

-Craig
 
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Old 03-12-2005, 06:59 PM
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Craig,

No problem, I like to help when I can.

Anyhow, you are correct, without seeing the paint up close, it's hard to tell. Here are some pointers.

For fairly significant swirls and light scratches, you might need to go to any even more abrasive product like Meguiar's DACP (Dual Action Cleaner Polish), and then step down to the Groits #3 or Meguiar's #9 to clean up any hazing and finish off the swirls. However, I would try the Griots #2 or the #80 first and see how it works.

Now, keep in mind that the orbital buffer and those products may or "may not" get out the scratches depending on how deep they are. Remember, to remove scratches, you have to remove the paint down to the depth of the scratch. In some cases that would require removing all the clear coat............ not a good thing!!!! In those cases, it's better to remove some of the scratch, and then touch them up with paint rather than trying to remove all the scratch.

P.S. Also keep in mind that you should use only "one" product on a given pad........... unless you clean it up, and let it dry. Even then, I try to "dedicate" pads to a given product or at least very similar products from the same manufacturer.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 03-12-2005, 07:04 PM
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One last thing..........

Here is a great thread (with pics) that RP did on his swirl removal........... it should help!

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=185769
 

Last edited by Boss_429; 03-12-2005 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 03-12-2005, 07:06 PM
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#26 is actually a professional product that is carried in just about all Pepboys. As is #9 and a few others
 
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Old 03-12-2005, 09:29 PM
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Boss,
I don't think the link to RP's thread on you last post worked, do you mind trying it again? Also, what pads do you recommend using and where can I get them? Thanks for all your help, it truly is appreciated.

-Craig
 
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Old 03-12-2005, 10:40 PM
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Craig,

Yep.......... it would help if I actually put it in the post!

Here it is too......

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=185769

Let me find out the size pads that come with that buffer before I give you any recommendations.
 

Last edited by Boss_429; 03-12-2005 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 03-12-2005, 11:09 PM
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Craig,

OK, the red pad that came with your kit is the finishing pad and should be used to apply waxes or sealants.

Any "finishing" pad can also be used with a final polish (like Griots #3 or Meguiar's #81- Pro hand polish) to add some gloss.

The orange pad that came with your kit is a "polishing" pad that should be used with the more abrasive polishes (like Groit's #1, #2, or Meguiar's #9, #80-Speed Glaze, or #83-DACP).

You could also the "polishing" pad with the Griot's final polish if you want just a touch more aggressiveness.

Now, the Griot's pads seem to be the standard 6 to 6 1/2 inch pads. Therefore, you should be able to use Meguiar's 6 1/2 pads without any problems. In the Meguiar's line, the yellow pad is the "polishing" pad and the tan pad is the "finishing" pad. Meguiar's also makes a red "cutting" pad for more serious work.

Here's a link to the pads......

http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguia...W-80&store=pro
http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguia...W-90&store=pro

They sell a kit of 2 polishing pads and 1 finishing pad for around $25, but I can't find the page?????

Here's a link to the dealer locator if you want to try and find them locally. (put in your zip, and select professional products)

http://www.meguiars.com/DealerLocato...r_template.cfm

HTH
 
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Old 03-13-2005, 02:37 PM
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Alright Boss, I just want to run my process by you and see what you think:

- Begin by washing and follow with a clay bar
- Use polishing pad with Meguiar's #80
- Follow with Meguiar's #81
Ouestion: If I start with #80, would I need to use #9 afterwards before moving on to the final polishing stage with #81?
- Apply #26 wax
Question: Do I apply the wax by hand or with the polisher? If I use the polisher, do I use the polishing or finishing pad? Also, should I use a MF bonnet on the polisher to remove the wax, or simply remove it by hand?
- Follow with NXT
Question: Same as above.
- Wait 24 hrs and apply second coat of NXT

I really am sorry for bothering you with all these questions, Boss, but I just want to ensure that if I'm spending 8+hrs do detail my truck, it will be done the right way. Thanks in advance.

-Craig
 


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