Well, I finally found the time to do a detail job. It went great. Took a long time and it was a hot day here in So. Cal. but I got it done. Here is how it went.

Wash with my new wool wash mitt and some NXT car wash solution. After using a sheeting action with the hose, my absolutely wonderful WW towels from Meguiars came in real handy. I have to say, I love these towels. They work great.

Next, I clayed the whole vehicle. Great results from the clay and QD that came with my kit. I did think though that I would see a lot more contaminates on the clay as I was working the product. A little disappointed but great results none the less. I didn’t wash after the clay because as I was claying, I used another one of my WW towels to wipe off the QD.

After the clay, I began to experiment with different products and pads on my hood. #9 just wasn’t doing the job so I stepped it up to the #80 speed glaze. Still not getting quite the results that I wanted so I went from a polishing pad 8006 to a cutting pad (7006 I think). This introduced small marring so I went back to the 8006. After learning how long it took the product to break down, I applied 3 coats to the entire truck. Product went on and come off great with the DA and MF towels.

Followed the polish up with 2 coats of NXT tech wax with the finishing pad (9006) for a great shine followed by interior and wheels to finish up the job.


A few things I would have done different. Without a doubt, next time I will take more time to wash thoroughly. I didn’t quite get all the areas and was forced to skip a few spots low on the vehicle because I was scared to pick up dirt into the pad and scratch the paint. Use painters tape around the entire vehicle. It might take a little while but well worth the time so you don’t have to spend all evening after a detail to remove was and glaze from the handles and trim. All in all, I think everything went well but I would have liked slightly better results. What do you think I should do next time RP? I noticed that a lot of people like the DACP but I read in a thread the other day that you don’t think it should be used on dark vehicles. Maybe I just need more coats of #80??? Anyway, I have to say, this is the best job I have ever done as far as a detail. Thanks a lot everyone. Especially RP. I’ll post pictures sometime soon.

 

Glad it worked out for you...

It's not that I think DACP shouldn't be used on dark, it's that I think it's difficult to use on dark. From my experience, the product just doesn't break down very well by hand or by PC leaving the user introducing slight micro-marring to the paint that then has to be removed by another product. I've pretty much moved #83 DACP to my 'rotary only' stash of products along with #84 and #85.

On dark colors, #80 is a tough one to beat in my honest opinion. Multiple applications may be necessary but, I find it easier to work with (much easier) than DACP especially by hand or PC.

Be ultra-careful that you were taking your time with your passes with the PC and #80 or #9. Both of those products take a bit to break down under normal conditions and PC usage. Getting in too much of a hurry or moving the PC too quickly will result in the product not doing it's job to completion. Polishing will easily be the most time consuming task in your detailing battalion if it's done correctly.

Can't wait for the pics!

RP

 

RP,

You should make this detailing post a Sticky at the top of the General care and detailing forum

 

I'm flattered

Hey RP. I noticed that the less pressure that I used, the product would react differently. For instance, if I was to concentrate on minimal pressure and allow the pad to rotate as much as possible (you can really notice how fast the pad is moving by looking at the writing on the back of the backing plate) I noticed that the #80 would take on a different appearance. First, the product would seem to be spread out much better then the product would go almost translucent. Is that broken down or should I stick with a little more pressure on the DA?

 

OK. The album has begun. The link is below for your enjoyment. Now, by the time I was done detailing, it had gotten late so I haven't snapped any pictures of the results yet. I did this detail last Saturday so it's already too dirty to photograph so everyone will have to wait until after I wash it this Saturday. I know, I know. Sorry. Soon my friends......

But, the pre-detail pictures are there so you can see my problem.....

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...w.cfm?num=8634

 

Great questions...

I'm not sure that there's a right or wrong answer to any of your questions. The reason I say that is because every environment is going to be a bit different and thus, the products will react differently. My best advice to you is to play around with it a bit. If the product is tending to 'gum' up a bit, odds are, it's as good as you're going to get with that pass (never work a product until dry). Experience with the PC will yield a comfort level with individual products so that you know the speed and other characteristics of the product as they all will react a bit differently.

I will say though that I've never really noticed a color change while utilizing 80... it may get thin and dry a bit and thus, loose some color but, I've never noted a definitive difference in color; in characteristics yes but, color no.

Your pad will release or hold product based on your pressure and thus, I think what you were seeing there may have been a result of that potentially?

RP

 

Is the Mequires Scratch X as good as Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 or Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze? Its the only thing I could find at the local store.

 

What are you trying to accomplish kanter?

Scratch-X is a very good product but, is really intended more for 'localized' use (ie: a scuff or a scratch). While it can be used over the entire vehicle, I pitty you and wish your arms a very nice hiatus from working.... you're going to be one sore dude if you do it and do it right.

Did you check PaprikaBoys or OtterZone for #9?

 

We have Checker... and Kmart

 

Well, I was GIVEN a 2000 Dodge RT with 70k miles, yesterday. Its black and has a lot of scratches. The truck was owned by my wifes sister and she has 3 kids. There are a lot of surface scratches.... a lot. I have the Maguires Car Wash, Clay System, Cleaner Wax, Fine Cut #2, and NXT. I went to the local store and all they had was Scratch X.

Im wondering if I can just
1. wash
2. clay
3. cleaner wax or fine cut #2
4. NXT

and just skip buying the Scratch X. Will the fine cut #2 or cleaner wax work as good as swirl and scratch remover?

 

Hard call without seeing it but, I'd try #2 before going out to buy another product (use what you have to see if it'll work). I've never used #2 but have heard to NEVER let it dry on your paint as it turns into super glue. Not sure if that's true but, I've heard it from more than one person... it is a very 'old school' type of product. BTW, #2 is recommended for use with a rotary only.

If the scratches are plentiful and deep, it may be something that requires a rotary and a compound (along with a few other steps) to remove the bulk of the problem. If it's 'way-far' gone, odds are it'll never be perfect... but, there's nothing wrong with trying to get it as close to it as possible.

 

Well the paint turned out AWESOME.... except the hood. I used the PC;

1. Meguires fine cut #2
2. Nu-finish polish
3. 2 coats NTX

The black tuned out real nice but I can not get the water spots off the hood. I used the PC and fine cut #2 twice and got a lot of them out but if you look at an angle you can still see the water spots. Any other ideas? I have buffed a lot of cars in my time and I was REAL close to burning the paint on the hood and the water spots would just not come off.

 

Often times, water etching cannot be totally removed without sacrificing the paint. In short, you can minimize the appearance but, removal is impossible because the etching has permeated the clear.

RP