OK RP, I just went through about 15 pages of post you have made and can’t find the article you posted a while ago about your great detailing instructions. Anyway, I’ve decided that I can’t take it anymore and I need to do a full and complete workup on my truck and make the investment in a PC.

Now, I have been browsing these forums for a while now (probably more than I should) and have found lots and lots of do’s and don’ts about detailing and lots of great tips about products. Here is my question to you RP. Buy the way, thanks ahead of time for all the info…

I have a black 2004 FX4. I have small swirls and want my paint to look like yours….What do I need to buy??? I am assuming you are going to say a PC 7424 and this and that pad, and this and that product, and this and that bla bla bla. I would like a process that has products that are easy to remove as in the past I have had a lot of trouble with this. If this has been answered a thousand times before I apologize and links to other threads would be just fine. Thanks RP. By the way, maybe this forum needs a sticky for this type of thing. Might make it easier for you to go about your day so morons like me don’t take up your entire day…

 

I'm in sort of the same boat myself...I've got small scratches and swirls all over my truck, I know it's been reviewed a billion times, but what, when, why, and how to use what and where to get it? The only products I've got on hand are the first and second steps of the Meguiar's 3 step thingy, the cleaner and polish that comes in red bottles, NXT, a Clay Magic kit and Meguiar's Gold Class car wash liquid. What else is there? I want to do a through top to bottom detail before it gets too blazingly hot in Gawga this summer.

 

Hang tight... very short on time at the moment... I'll get with you shortly.

-RP-

 

what exactly is a PC?

 

SuperLB51,

Click this to find out about the PC.

http://www.premiumautocare.com/7424.html

 

Thanks Lariat answers my question!

 

No problemo...

This is kind of an open ended question. There are several things that you 'could' buy but, I'll try to keep it abbreviated to a certain degree.

A 'basic' full detail would entail several steps.

1. Wash. This is the most important step. Use a shampoo that is high-lubrication and use a mitt or sponge that is a quality item as well. El-cheapo from Wal-Mart may or may not work well. I think most detailers and enthusiasts would agree that the majority of swirls/scratches get introduced during this step. A two-bucket method is also recommended.... along with a couple of grit-guards. Allow your mitt to do the work... no 'downward' pressure should be used under any circumstances. Avoid wheel wells and lower body panels until near the end of your wash and use dedicated sponges etc for these areas. These will have the most potential to cross-contaminate your wash solution and will have the most grit/grime which can introduce scratching/swirls.

My favorite readily available car wash solution is Meguiar's Gold Class. You can buy it by the gallon at Target for $10. It's really good stuff for the buck.

2. Clay. This step removes bonded contamination that simple washing leaves behind. Do a quick search here for clay and you should come up with a plethora of information. We've talked about this one IN DEPTH several times.

There are oodles of brands and I'm not sure I like any one of them more than another. I typically use Meguiar's Body Shop Professional Overspray Clay but, it has been revamped to 'Mild' clay. Blue Magic, Mothers, Meguiar's Quik Clay... they're all good.

3. Cleaning/Abrasive polishing. This is the step that will remove the swirls and/or mild oxidation on your paint (which you probably won't have). The level of problems you have will dictate the product you use IMO. A good 'catch-all' type of product is Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 or Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze. Both are light/moderate cleaner polishes and may, depending on your unique situation, require multiple applications. Both can be applied by hand or PC.

4. Wax/Last Step Product. Don't move to this step until you're satisfied with the one before it... and the one before it...

There are literally hundreds of great products out there. On dark colors, I prefer a carnauba wax as I just don't think that the depth and reflectivity on a dark paint can be beat with anything synthetic; NXT included.

I like Meguiar's NXT and, thus far, the new Meguiar's #21 Syn. Sealant but, side by side with #16 Professional Paste Wax, I see a noticable difference.

One thing to note here though, a synthetic will, under normal situations, perform better than a carnauba based wax on durability. So, if you plan on being able to wax every so often, go with carnauba. If you need longer durability because of time lapse between applications, go with a synthetic like Zaino, NXT, or #21.

-- CONTINUED --

 

The 'PC' or Porter Cable or Dual-Action Polisher or DA that you hear so much about is a tremendous tool to have on hand in my opinion.

It makes the application of polishes that require 'arm work' a breeze and also makes a snap out of the thin layer technique that you want to follow with nearly everything that you lay down on your paint (polish, wax, sealant).

There are multiple pads and, in my opinon, a simple method here is probably the best way to go. Some companies that make pads put out a wide variety of abrasive power on their pads and, while they make good stuff, I just haven't been able to justify going with a 8-pack of pads to achieve what I can do with two. That's just me though... if you want a bunch of pads, go after it.

I prefer a Polishing pad and a Finishing Pad. The Meguiar's 8006 and 9006 pads are perfect for this application.

The key with the PC is to not get in a hurry. The main problem we all see and also experience is that folks move too quickly with the machine and thus, don't allow the product to properly break down nor do it's job. Ultimately, you can either not get your problem taken care of or introduce more problems with micro-marring or similar.

The PC is a very 'user friendly' tool and, honestly, you have to be a bonehead to really screw things up. As long as you use common sense and a bit of know-how, you're going to be successful with this product! I won't go with out one!

Hope that helps. Fire a response if you need anything else. That's a VERY abbreviated response to your question but, I can get a bit more in depth on individual items if you need it.

RP

 

Thanks RP, I knew you would hook it up. I do have a few questions /concernes that I would like to run by you but I can't address them until I have some time to evaluate all your information. Just wanted to say thanks for now and I'll post later today or tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

Great info you posted there RP. Here are my questions…

Wash: I am using a high quality sponge/wash mitt that I got at Wally World. If you don’t recommend this, what should I use and where should I get it? Can you explain the two bucket process? I’m sure you mean one bucket with soap in it and one with water for rinsing in between dips for soap but I wanted to make sure.

Clay: I’ll do a search in a little bit for proper procedures but one question. I’ve done it in the past to other vehicles and my only question is, don’t you need to use a lubricant for the clay process ie some type of quick detail Meguire’s stuff or another? If that is true, should I wash the vehicle again after I clay?

Cleaning/Abrasive polishing: This is the one step that I would like a little more detail about as this is the step that should get rid of my problem. In your reply to my post you stated “I prefer a Polishing pad and a Finishing Pad. The Meguire’s 8006 and 9006 pads are perfect for this application.” Which pad do I use and when, and what about removing the product. I believe in an old post you stated that you use a MF towel to remove products. I think that is micro-fiber but I want to make sure. Do you not use the PC to remove products? Do you do that part by hand? Also, don’t forget that I have a black truck. Just want one more assurance from you that the products you recommended are not going to damage my paint. Also,

You also stated this in your post, “The key with the PC is to not get in a hurry. The main problem we all see and also experience is that folks move too quickly with the machine and thus, don't allow the product to properly break down nor do it's job. Ultimately, you can either not get your problem taken care of or introduce more problems with micro-marring or similar.” What is it that does introduce more problems like micro-marring or similar? If I know that, I should be better able to prevent this problem from occurring while detailing my truck.

Wax: Same questions as above about application and removal of products.

Last question. You stated “and also makes a snap out of the thin layer technique that you want to follow with nearly everything that you lay down on your paint (polish, wax, sealant).” Little more explanation please.

I think the best deal I have been able to find is the “Online Promotion Package #2 DA Polisher NXT Speed Kit” from http://www.autodetailingsolutions.co...20Specials.htm
And should I get the hook and loop backing plate?

I found this thread form boss. If it answers some of my questions from above then just let me know that way you don’t have to spend all day answering my questions.

“Here are some quick notes on the PC:

Get at least 2 or 3 polishing pads. (6 1/2" or 7 1/2" pads depending on brand)
Get at least 1 or 2 finishing pads. (6 1/2" or 7 1/2" pads
Dedicate the pads to specific products or very similar products.
Get a 5" hook & loop backing plate.
Use the 6" counter weight that comes with the kit from Coastal (or ask for it wherever you buy it)

Use the polishing pads with light to moderately abrasive polishes with the PC set on 4 to 5.

Use the finishing pads with waxes, sealants or glazes with the PC set on 3 to 4.”

Hope I’m not asking too many questions. I just want to make sure I get it right.

 

One more question about the PC or DA. I have an orbital buffer from Pepboys and I hate it. The thing shakes like crazy and the power cord always pops out. Not to mention after 5 mins my hands are numb and my teath feel like they are going to fall out. I just want to make sure this PC or DA wont do the same thing.

 

ACK!

Stay tuned... this one will take a while.

RP

 

Products don't vary a great deal but, if it were my money, I'd stick with a very well known brand name like Mother's, Meguiar's or something similar on shampoos. Dilute to the recommended ratios. Meguiar's Gold Class is a great choice and is available by the gallon at Target.

Mitts... I've heard decent things about the Eurow mitt that Wally World sells.

Two bucket == Yep, you're dead on.

Lubricant -- Yes. Meg's QD works well. Some like a shampoo/water mix. I prefer QD sprays as lube... they're a bit more expensive but, I think they provide a little better lubrication. IMO.

Re-Wash -- Doesn't hurt a thing but, I rarely do.



I'd go with hand removal with a high-quality microfiber towel like the DF Concours MF towel. Black is a booger... I've used both methods (bonnet on a pad and hand) but, IMO, hand is safer with black. Also, I might add that I do often apply my last step product by hand as well.



Micro-marring, from what I've seen, is generally introduced in a couple of different ways. The first is that the product isn't breaking down completely as it should and, the second, is unnecessary downward force on the PC.

Same answers as above.



It's just easier to control and apply. I don't really have a good explanation other than once you try it and use it a few times, you'll totally understand.



Yep. Get the 6.5" plate (W-64DA). It'll make your job much easier.

He's dead on... I learned a great deal of what I know from him. Always pay attention to his posts... he's a WEALTH of information.



I've never had any problems with power cords but, this machine does vibrate and is, somewhat, loud. It's the nature of the machine. It rotates and oscillates hence, the dual-action. Personally, I've never had any numbness or dental problems as a result (I have, however, had two root canals in the past year but, I'm pretty sure that was from my love of candy.).

Hope that helps!!!


RP

 

I'm thinking of buying the same setup myself...especially after I saw more scratches on my truck today. These are light ones though, can't be felt with a fingernail, I can definitely see them though, especially against the black.

Stupid question time though: What's the advantage of the counterweight for the PC? Does it dance around a lot or something? The counterweight make it easier to control?

Also, after claying with the QD spray, do you just wipe it dry with a microfiber cloth, or rinse then dry? I'm assuming the latter, minimizes further scratching?

 

Thanks RP. I know I asked a lot of questions. If anyone is interested, below is the order I placed with Auto Detailing Solutions. I will also be doing a full picture step by step of my detail job using the suggestions by everyone on this page, especially RP. I'll post here when I am done. The only thing missing from the list below is the upgraded backing plate and counter weight that I will be ordering right now from someone who has them. Thanks again and wish me luck...

1. Item Name: Meguiar's 6.5" Foam Polishing Pad
Item Number: W8006
Quantity: 2
Total: $17.90 USD

2.Item Name: Meguiar's 6.5" Foam Finishing Pad
Item Number: W9006
Quantity: 2
Total: $17.90 USD

3.Item Name: Meguiar's Foam Applicator Pad 4 Pack
Item Number: W-0004-4
Quantity: 1
Total: $3.49 USD

4.Item Name: Package #2 DA Polisher NXT Speed Kit
Item Number: NXT Speed Kit
Quantity: 1
Total: $219.95 USD

5.Item Name: Meguiar's Water Magnet Drying Towel 3
Item Number: X2000 3 Water Magnets
Quantity: 1
Total: $24.99 USD

6.Item Name: Meguiar's Ultra Plush Wash Mitt
Item Number: X3010
Quantity: 1
Total: $4.49 USD

Cart Subtotal: $288.72 USD
Shipping: $15.95 USD
Sales Tax: $0.00 USD
Cart Total: $304.67 USD