Detail plan for a beginner
#16
#18
Originally posted by Ford Lariat
RP, or anyone who knows- you know the painter's tape? Could you use that on your trim or paint when polishing or waxing?
RP, or anyone who knows- you know the painter's tape? Could you use that on your trim or paint when polishing or waxing?
It's kind of pricey to purchase when you get right down to it but, it's worth it to me. I will ONLY use 3m blue though. I've never had any problems with left behind adhesive or similar.... not even in some direct sunlight. It's really good stuff (and should be for what you have to pay for it).
RP
#20
#21
Originally posted by Ford Lariat
.....but there is no need to pay $225 for the DA Polisher Meg's is offering. You can order one from Home Depot or Lowes for much cheaper.
.....but there is no need to pay $225 for the DA Polisher Meg's is offering. You can order one from Home Depot or Lowes for much cheaper.
You can also get Meg's polisher from ADS.
SL
#22
Originally posted by RockPick
#83 really won't do much to "cover up" any swirls/scratches. You see, this is an abrasive polish that utilizes diminishing microscopic abrasives which actually remove a very minimal layer of clear coat in order to achieve a flat, swirl-free, surface. The polishing oils in the product may, in a very minimal way, do something to conceal but, really won't go a long way, reveal your problem again. Never cover swirls/scratches up when you can remove them.
#83 really won't do much to "cover up" any swirls/scratches. You see, this is an abrasive polish that utilizes diminishing microscopic abrasives which actually remove a very minimal layer of clear coat in order to achieve a flat, swirl-free, surface. The polishing oils in the product may, in a very minimal way, do something to conceal but, really won't go a long way, reveal your problem again. Never cover swirls/scratches up when you can remove them.
What do you use to remove scratches then, when the highest machine you have to work with is a PC? Will Scratch X help? These scratches are not below the clearcoat BTW. But you can definitely see them.
#23
#83 is a viable option but, IMO, 83 is a tad difficult to work with using a PC. I just don't feel like the product breaks down real well with that machine or, if it does, it takes an EXTENDED amount of time.
I'm a firm believer in Speed Glaze (#80) with the PC on '4'.
Both products will remove swirls/scratches but neither will do much to 'conceal' them.
I'm a firm believer in Speed Glaze (#80) with the PC on '4'.
Both products will remove swirls/scratches but neither will do much to 'conceal' them.
#24
Originally posted by RockPick
#83 is a viable option but, IMO, 83 is a tad difficult to work with using a PC. I just don't feel like the product breaks down real well with that machine or, if it does, it takes an EXTENDED amount of time.
I'm a firm believer in Speed Glaze (#80) with the PC on '4'.
Both products will remove swirls/scratches but neither will do much to 'conceal' them.
#83 is a viable option but, IMO, 83 is a tad difficult to work with using a PC. I just don't feel like the product breaks down real well with that machine or, if it does, it takes an EXTENDED amount of time.
I'm a firm believer in Speed Glaze (#80) with the PC on '4'.
Both products will remove swirls/scratches but neither will do much to 'conceal' them.
I agree, #83 does take a while to breakdown. If you try to remove it while it hasn't broken down all the way yet, it's difficult.
So #83, then #80 would remove the scratches? (the scratches were from a kid hitting a stick against the paint)
Could I use ScratchX at all?
#25
I think I might have generated a bit of confusion with my initial response...
Concealing is, of course, just covering them up. Much like women use make up.
Removing is actually taking a very thin layer of clearcoat off of the top.
Removing, in my honest opinion, is, easily, the best choice.
What I was mentioning in my original post is that #83 will do a great job of removing the swirls versus concealing them. But, with the oils and such utilized in the product, there is a slim chance that you'll note some concealing when the product is used. Make more sense?
Without having seen your scratches, it's a tough call. #83 and #80 (and Scratch-X) are all abrasive and thus, they will remove a very very thin layer of the clear so that the scratch can be, at least, minimized (by removal). If any of the three products can remove it would have to be tested by you since it's a tough call without seeing them...
RP
Concealing is, of course, just covering them up. Much like women use make up.
Removing is actually taking a very thin layer of clearcoat off of the top.
Removing, in my honest opinion, is, easily, the best choice.
What I was mentioning in my original post is that #83 will do a great job of removing the swirls versus concealing them. But, with the oils and such utilized in the product, there is a slim chance that you'll note some concealing when the product is used. Make more sense?
Without having seen your scratches, it's a tough call. #83 and #80 (and Scratch-X) are all abrasive and thus, they will remove a very very thin layer of the clear so that the scratch can be, at least, minimized (by removal). If any of the three products can remove it would have to be tested by you since it's a tough call without seeing them...
RP
#26
Originally posted by RockPick
I think I might have generated a bit of confusion with my initial response...
Concealing is, of course, just covering them up. Much like women use make up.
Removing is actually taking a very thin layer of clearcoat off of the top.
Removing, in my honest opinion, is, easily, the best choice.
What I was mentioning in my original post is that #83 will do a great job of removing the swirls versus concealing them. But, with the oils and such utilized in the product, there is a slim chance that you'll note some concealing when the product is used. Make more sense?
Without having seen your scratches, it's a tough call. #83 and #80 (and Scratch-X) are all abrasive and thus, they will remove a very very thin layer of the clear so that the scratch can be, at least, minimized (by removal). If any of the three products can remove it would have to be tested by you since it's a tough call without seeing them...
RP
I think I might have generated a bit of confusion with my initial response...
Concealing is, of course, just covering them up. Much like women use make up.
Removing is actually taking a very thin layer of clearcoat off of the top.
Removing, in my honest opinion, is, easily, the best choice.
What I was mentioning in my original post is that #83 will do a great job of removing the swirls versus concealing them. But, with the oils and such utilized in the product, there is a slim chance that you'll note some concealing when the product is used. Make more sense?
Without having seen your scratches, it's a tough call. #83 and #80 (and Scratch-X) are all abrasive and thus, they will remove a very very thin layer of the clear so that the scratch can be, at least, minimized (by removal). If any of the three products can remove it would have to be tested by you since it's a tough call without seeing them...
RP
In what order would you use ScratchX, #83 and #80, along with what pads/PC speeds?
Questions questions.
#27
Originally posted by Ford Lariat
Thanks for the input. Lemme get this straight; if a product is 'abrasive,' that means it removes a small layer of the clearcoat in order to REMOVE the swirls/scratches?
Thanks for the input. Lemme get this straight; if a product is 'abrasive,' that means it removes a small layer of the clearcoat in order to REMOVE the swirls/scratches?
Correct. That's the only purpose of the abrasive ingredient in the product.
Because the scratch LIES ON TOP OF the clearcoat?
Incorrect. The scratch is actually into the clear coat. Thus, to make it flat again, you have to remove clear around it to make it flat again.
Think of it like this... wet concrete. You take a stick and write your name in it. While it's still wet, you take a trowel and smooth it all back out. Same general principal.
In what order would you use ScratchX, #83 and #80, along with what pads/PC speeds?
I wouldn't use all three. I'd use the least aggressive first and with multiple applications.
In this case, #80 or Scratch X would be the lesser evils. Further, if the scratches are localized, I would probably go with hand application; especially if the surrounding paint is in good shape.
As for PC usage/pads/speeds with Meg's products; refer to this chart that Mike Phillips put together...
That help?
RP
#28
Originally posted by RockPick
Correct. That's the only purpose of the abrasive ingredient in the product.
[/b]
Incorrect. The scratch is actually into the clear coat. Thus, to make it flat again, you have to remove clear around it to make it flat again.
Think of it like this... wet concrete. You take a stick and write your name in it. While it's still wet, you take a trowel and smooth it all back out. Same general principal.
[/b]
I wouldn't use all three. I'd use the least aggressive first and with multiple applications.
In this case, #80 or Scratch X would be the lesser evils. Further, if the scratches are localized, I would probably go with hand application; especially if the surrounding paint is in good shape.
As for PC usage/pads/speeds with Meg's products; refer to this chart that Mike Phillips put together...
That help?
RP [/B]
Correct. That's the only purpose of the abrasive ingredient in the product.
[/b]
Incorrect. The scratch is actually into the clear coat. Thus, to make it flat again, you have to remove clear around it to make it flat again.
Think of it like this... wet concrete. You take a stick and write your name in it. While it's still wet, you take a trowel and smooth it all back out. Same general principal.
[/b]
I wouldn't use all three. I'd use the least aggressive first and with multiple applications.
In this case, #80 or Scratch X would be the lesser evils. Further, if the scratches are localized, I would probably go with hand application; especially if the surrounding paint is in good shape.
As for PC usage/pads/speeds with Meg's products; refer to this chart that Mike Phillips put together...
That help?
RP [/B]
I'm not familar with Meg's pad codes, but is the W8006 the polishing pad? or cutting pad?
Once before I used ScratchX by machine and did NOT like the removal of it! It was really hard to remove. I don't know, maybe you could give me the basics on apply it by hand, instead.
Thaaanks.
#29
I have been of this forum for only a short time and have learned quite a bit about detailing my truck. I would like to thank all who contribute to the forum, especially RP. I never knew how involved this was until I read all the info here. Now I am addicted to making my truck look great all the time. Too bad I live in Oregon where it rains so much and makes it look dirty right away.
I plan on buying the PC from ADS in a couple weeks along with a few products. I talked to Rick and he was easy to talk to and had a lot of information. The BOSS (wife) is being supportive of this purchase since I will be keeping her car looking like new. I will "practice" on my daughters black Civic first since it has a bunch of small scratches and swirls. I plan on using #83, #80, and NXT wax on my daughters car.
Thanks again, Kevin
I plan on buying the PC from ADS in a couple weeks along with a few products. I talked to Rick and he was easy to talk to and had a lot of information. The BOSS (wife) is being supportive of this purchase since I will be keeping her car looking like new. I will "practice" on my daughters black Civic first since it has a bunch of small scratches and swirls. I plan on using #83, #80, and NXT wax on my daughters car.
Thanks again, Kevin
#30
Originally posted by Ford Lariat
Yesss, that's much better. The scratches are scattered on the outside of all sides of the bed (exterior), including the tailgate. What do you mean by 'localized'? Maybe like, ten, total scratches.
Yesss, that's much better. The scratches are scattered on the outside of all sides of the bed (exterior), including the tailgate. What do you mean by 'localized'? Maybe like, ten, total scratches.
Pick your poison. Whichever works better for you. Try it both ways...
I'm not familar with Meg's pad codes, but is the W8006 the polishing pad? or cutting pad?
8006 is polishing -- yellow
9006 is finishing -- tan
7006 is cutting -- maroon (red)(I don't recommend this one with the PC)
Once before I used ScratchX by machine and did NOT like the removal of it! It was really hard to remove. I don't know, maybe you could give me the basics on apply it by hand, instead.
Thaaanks.
Thaaanks.
Remember, thin coats. Dont' glob it on. Don't progress to the next section until you finish the first.
RP