Detail plan for a beginner
#31
05-11-2005, 11:04 PM
Originally posted by khindal
I have been of this forum for only a short time and have learned quite a bit about detailing my truck. I would like to thank all who contribute to the forum, especially RP. I never knew how involved this was until I read all the info here. Now I am addicted to making my truck look great all the time. Too bad I live in Oregon where it rains so much and makes it look dirty right away.
I plan on buying the PC from ADS in a couple weeks along with a few products. I talked to Rick and he was easy to talk to and had a lot of information. The BOSS (wife) is being supportive of this purchase since I will be keeping her car looking like new. I will "practice" on my daughters black Civic first since it has a bunch of small scratches and swirls. I plan on using #83, #80, and NXT wax on my daughters car.
Thanks again, Kevin
I have been of this forum for only a short time and have learned quite a bit about detailing my truck. I would like to thank all who contribute to the forum, especially RP. I never knew how involved this was until I read all the info here. Now I am addicted to making my truck look great all the time. Too bad I live in Oregon where it rains so much and makes it look dirty right away.
I plan on buying the PC from ADS in a couple weeks along with a few products. I talked to Rick and he was easy to talk to and had a lot of information. The BOSS (wife) is being supportive of this purchase since I will be keeping her car looking like new. I will "practice" on my daughters black Civic first since it has a bunch of small scratches and swirls. I plan on using #83, #80, and NXT wax on my daughters car.
Thanks again, Kevin
Good luck
#33
05-11-2005, 11:08 PM
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Originally posted by Ford Lariat
Yesss, that's much better. The scratches are scattered on the outside of all sides of the bed (exterior), including the tailgate. What do you mean by 'localized'? Maybe like, ten, total scratches.
I'm not familar with Meg's pad codes, but is the W8006 the polishing pad? or cutting pad?
Once before I used ScratchX by machine and did NOT like the removal of it! It was really hard to remove. I don't know, maybe you could give me the basics on apply it by hand, instead.
Thaaanks.
Yesss, that's much better. The scratches are scattered on the outside of all sides of the bed (exterior), including the tailgate. What do you mean by 'localized'? Maybe like, ten, total scratches.
I'm not familar with Meg's pad codes, but is the W8006 the polishing pad? or cutting pad?
Once before I used ScratchX by machine and did NOT like the removal of it! It was really hard to remove. I don't know, maybe you could give me the basics on apply it by hand, instead.
Thaaanks.
"pulling" the product that has made it's way to the outside of your work area back into the area...if that makes sense. Work in small 2x2ft areas. You can wipe off when the area starts to "clear" up...no need to let it dry. You may repeat this 3 times or so if needed.
Good Luck
-slippy
#34
05-11-2005, 11:40 PM
Originally posted by slippysmit
ScratchX is intended to be used by hand only. A PC will heat it up too much and make it gummy in most cases. I would suggest using ScratchX by hand and really working it in until you almost don't see the hazy product on the vehicle. I mean really work it good with a foam pad. Up, down, side to side, and really
"pulling" the product that has made it's way to the outside of your work area back into the area...if that makes sense. Work in small 2x2ft areas. You can wipe off when the area starts to "clear" up...no need to let it dry. You may repeat this 3 times or so if needed.
Good Luck
-slippy
ScratchX is intended to be used by hand only. A PC will heat it up too much and make it gummy in most cases. I would suggest using ScratchX by hand and really working it in until you almost don't see the hazy product on the vehicle. I mean really work it good with a foam pad. Up, down, side to side, and really
"pulling" the product that has made it's way to the outside of your work area back into the area...if that makes sense. Work in small 2x2ft areas. You can wipe off when the area starts to "clear" up...no need to let it dry. You may repeat this 3 times or so if needed.
Good Luck
-slippy
#35
05-12-2005, 12:43 AM
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#36
05-12-2005, 08:19 AM
Originally posted by Ford Lariat
Ohh, thanks. After the removal of ScratchX is it ready for wax? Or if the ScratchX didn't remove the scratches, could I try #80 next?
Ohh, thanks. After the removal of ScratchX is it ready for wax? Or if the ScratchX didn't remove the scratches, could I try #80 next?
RP
#37
05-12-2005, 08:48 AM
#38
05-12-2005, 10:12 AM
Originally posted by Fleaboy
If you are going for the full detail don't use a fancy soap to wash with. Use dawn, this will strip any old wax and stuff off. Just letting you know that to get the good shine you want to get it down where you are waxing the paint.
If you are going for the full detail don't use a fancy soap to wash with. Use dawn, this will strip any old wax and stuff off. Just letting you know that to get the good shine you want to get it down where you are waxing the paint.
Dawn is a super aggressive detergent that will, indeed, strip everything off of the paint. Wax isn't the only thing it will strip though....
Modern clear coat finishes have various types of oils and other ingredients in them that help keep them shiny, nourished, and keep them from getting brittle. Dawn, like most dishwashing soaps, will not only take the wax but also these necessary ingredients to a certain extent and can aid in the dulling or oxidation of a modern finish.
Abrasive polishing will also remove any remaining wax that is on the vehicle but, unlike Dawn, will allow the oils and such to remain in the coating and thus keep it looking better. Further, wax (or a good sealant) helps lock those coatings in (as well as surficial contamination out) and thus, will enhance and help to protect the finish. Even a cleaner wax will do something in the way of removing an old wax or residual left behind from past protection.
Now, before I get ripped, I know there are some brands out there that say to do this and thus, keep in mind, I'm just giving you my opinion on this subject. This has been debated in oodles of forums on oodles of occasions under oodles of individual conditions. My conclusion, after sorting through a lot of muck, is that it's just not a good thing and thus, I always recommend a quality car wash shampoo which will have conditioning agents that will help to protect these necessary components of the clear paint on the color coat of a modern finished vehicle...
RP
#39
05-12-2005, 11:09 AM
#40
05-12-2005, 11:43 AM
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Originally posted by RockPick
Some people like to do this but, I don't (although I did at one time)... here's why...
Dawn is a super aggressive detergent that will, indeed, strip everything off of the paint. Wax isn't the only thing it will strip though....
Modern clear coat finishes have various types of oils and other ingredients in them that help keep them shiny, nourished, and keep them from getting brittle. Dawn, like most dishwashing soaps, will not only take the wax but also these necessary ingredients to a certain extent and can aid in the dulling or oxidation of a modern finish.
Abrasive polishing will also remove any remaining wax that is on the vehicle but, unlike Dawn, will allow the oils and such to remain in the coating and thus keep it looking better. Further, wax (or a good sealant) helps lock those coatings in (as well as surficial contamination out) and thus, will enhance and help to protect the finish. Even a cleaner wax will do something in the way of removing an old wax or residual left behind from past protection.
Now, before I get ripped, I know there are some brands out there that say to do this and thus, keep in mind, I'm just giving you my opinion on this subject. This has been debated in oodles of forums on oodles of occasions under oodles of individual conditions. My conclusion, after sorting through a lot of muck, is that it's just not a good thing and thus, I always recommend a quality car wash shampoo which will have conditioning agents that will help to protect these necessary components of the clear paint on the color coat of a modern finished vehicle...
RP
Some people like to do this but, I don't (although I did at one time)... here's why...
Dawn is a super aggressive detergent that will, indeed, strip everything off of the paint. Wax isn't the only thing it will strip though....
Modern clear coat finishes have various types of oils and other ingredients in them that help keep them shiny, nourished, and keep them from getting brittle. Dawn, like most dishwashing soaps, will not only take the wax but also these necessary ingredients to a certain extent and can aid in the dulling or oxidation of a modern finish.
Abrasive polishing will also remove any remaining wax that is on the vehicle but, unlike Dawn, will allow the oils and such to remain in the coating and thus keep it looking better. Further, wax (or a good sealant) helps lock those coatings in (as well as surficial contamination out) and thus, will enhance and help to protect the finish. Even a cleaner wax will do something in the way of removing an old wax or residual left behind from past protection.
Now, before I get ripped, I know there are some brands out there that say to do this and thus, keep in mind, I'm just giving you my opinion on this subject. This has been debated in oodles of forums on oodles of occasions under oodles of individual conditions. My conclusion, after sorting through a lot of muck, is that it's just not a good thing and thus, I always recommend a quality car wash shampoo which will have conditioning agents that will help to protect these necessary components of the clear paint on the color coat of a modern finished vehicle...
RP
CLEAN, POLISH, PROTECT.
-slippy
#41
05-12-2005, 01:39 PM
Originally posted by Ford Lariat
Is there any kind of car shampoo, formulated specifically for car washing use, that functions the same as dish washing soap (i.e. stripping wax) but without potentially harming it?
Is there any kind of car shampoo, formulated specifically for car washing use, that functions the same as dish washing soap (i.e. stripping wax) but without potentially harming it?
When used improperly, I think any one of them could fall into this category.
Which brings me to another important point...
Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations on dilution rates. Too much soap and not enough water can (and, most likely, will) strip a lot of wax. Too little soap and too much water may not give you the necessary lubrication between mitt and paint that the manufac. recommends.
Most soaps are 1 oz / gallon but, there are exceptions to this rule. Read the label!
Tip: I keep a set of measuring cups on hand in the garage for dilutions and such... Also, for diluting various 'spray style' products, the majority of spray bottles have graduated measurements on the sides of the bottles so you can easily figure your dilutions.
Remember, a glob in the bottom of the bucket may be too much or too little!
RP
#42
05-12-2005, 08:10 PM
#43
05-12-2005, 09:01 PM
Originally posted by Ford Lariat
I can find the 1oz mark only on my pyrex measuring glass. What do you use?
I can find the 1oz mark only on my pyrex measuring glass. What do you use?
http://www.oxo.com/catalog/product_i...id=468]THIS...
Also, remember...
1 ml = 0.0338 US fluid ounces
#44
05-13-2005, 09:26 PM
