I've just bought my first F150 and have had it for a about one week. Here in Southwestern Ontario, Canada the winter is brutal and the there are tons of salt on the roads. A local auto care shop charges $225 to apply a "top quality paint sealer with 5 year warrenty." Since it apparently protects against UV rays, bird poop, tree sap etc, it sounds like a good thing. A local body shop owner also recommended this.

I really want my new truck to look good as long as possible. I've already gotten it rust proofed. Doing any type of waxing is impossible for me right now due to the really cold, snowy conditions that we have here this time of year. I have no access to indoor locations where I could do anything myself.

Does anyone have experience with paint sealers? Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Is the price for this work reasonable? I believe that the product itself is very expensive.

 

I'd suggest saving your money.

These 'add-ons' that the stealership tosses your way are pure profit centers. Those 'in the know' with the stealerships will tell you that they are a quick bang to the bottom line on their deal; nothing more.

What you'll get is whatever flavor wax that they have sitting on the shelf at the dealership. A 'carhop' or 'car jockey' will apply it using what ever they have laying around the shop... All in all, I think nearly everyone here will concur that it's a poor investment in your truck.

Save your cash and take it to a respected detailer in your area that has indoor facilities and have them apply a nice synthetic wax to your truck. A couple of coats and you'll be good for the winter; even in a harsh environment... you'll save $ in the long run.

RP

 

I can only echo RP's comments! Save your money!

 

I detailed cars for a living awhile back at a chevy dealer. They would always try to push the "auto armor" brand which is the more popular brand as most ford dealers as well. The paint sealant that we would apply is different from off the shelf waxes because it was Teflon based. Holds up longer, and seals better. Would I pay anymore for it, hell no..
Funny thing is, if someone came in for a detail and wanted a quick wax job, they got the same $200 paint sealant. So go buy some good wax and terry cloth and save your money.

 

I agree 100% with Boss and RockPick - save your money. You're far better off with decent care and an occasional wax job on your own. Seeing as I live in the salt capital of the eastern US, ask me how I know that. Then again, you could just send me the money if that made you feel better! Merry Christmas!

 

I think they're just selling insurance with a cheap coat of wax

 

I would get them to sign a contract stating all that it protects against. I would gladly pay someone $225 that protected against bird poop, acid rain, etc. The only thing that protects against this is a garage. As RP and Boss said...save your $$$.....a good polish, and several coats of quality sealant topped with couple coats of wax and you will have better protection than any detail center will give you...You can do all this for under $40....Also, nothing out there protects your car for 5 years...It cracks me up that these idiots can advertise this..what's even funnier is the people that believe it....As the old addage says...if it sounds to good to be true..it usually is..

 

Waxes and sealants are different. They react differently to surface temperatures and conditions, and they are chemically different in the way they bond to the clearcoat surface. Waxes are the traditional, natural, time tested form of protection for cars; paint sealants are newer to the scene chemically formulated to do the same thing as a wax.


1) You'll never achieve the level of quality a good detail shop with an experienced car care professional can provide. You don't get to buy commerical only available products, nor is it cost effective for you to own all the different tools of the trade for just personal vehicles.

2) Mixing a sealant with a covering of wax is unecassary. You're only going to get one coat in contact with the paint. And only the bottom of that coat is touching. Anything above one coat is simply excess. Your basic wax is going to absord the UV rays, acid rain, and so forth forces that are battleing your car everyday. You could put on 1 coat, or 50 coats and it would act no differently. Wax melts in high temperatures. (which is why you see so many cars with faded hoods, roofs, and trunks) WHen a car sits in a parking lot at 90 degrees for an hour, absorbing heat, the paint goes well over 100 degrees. You then hop in the car and haul azz down the road and all that melted wax shoots straight off the front, up the winshield and down off the back over time, thus leaving your paint open to destruction. This is why professionals recommend waxing four times a year. Once in the winter, once in the spring, and twice during the summer. You can expect a wax life of 60-120 days based on conditions. Keeping these intervals makes sure you maintain full coverage at all times. Wax also doesn't degrade at the same pace throughout. You'll get uneveness over time, which is amplified if you have several coats and leads to spotty issues.

Sealants are chemically engineered waxes (synthetics) THey last longer, are more durable (and expensive), and require more effort. A good quality paint sealant cannot get wet for at least one hour after application. A wax is ready to go as soon as its wiped off. A good quality sealant will last 4-8 months, again depending on conditions.

3) If it costs less than $40, you haven't gotten all you need to truely give your paint the best protection and shine.

 

The $40 I was referring to would be for a new vehicle that hasn't been swirled/hologrammed up by a novice at the dealership. Clay bar, sealant and wax can be had for under $40. Some of which aren't available through retail stores. I have to disagree with you that one coat protects just as well as multiple coats, yet I do agree that you reach a point where more coats don't add any more protection. Also, the sealants I use need to stay dry for minimum 24 hours for the polymers to bond. From what I got from your post is that it is unnecessary to apply a LSP after the sealant has cured as you are adding no more protection? Again, have to disagree here, but again..this is all JMO. Also, waxes can change the look of paint. Sealants are clear and bright. Some waxes when applied over the sealant will give you the wet look with alot of depth. Maybe RP or Boss can chime in and give their 2cents. I promise you I can give your car everything it needs for well under $40. The intial cost is what gets you, however that will last you for numerous treatments which brings that cost substantially down. Being charged high dollars for a detail doesn't mean that the detailer paid high dollars for his products. I don't think Zymol Estate Vintage is worth the $1500 they charge for it. I would be willing to bet I can give the same or better for pennies on the dollar. Again, price and quality aren't necessarily reflective of each other. This goes with products and those that charge for the detail.

Happy New Year to you

 

I wasn't assuming that you didn't know what you were talking about. I just know because I am a master certified Blue Coral detailer. I have attended all their boring classes, and I can make miracles happen with paint. When I said its not worth it for the investment of all the equipment, I mean inside and out. Just a thermal extractor alone will run you $1500. If you put that one coat of wax or sealant on properly, on a good clean contaminant free surface, then it will cover fully. Multiple coats are time consuming and as I said, essentially they don't aid anything since only the bottom of hte first coat touches the paint. If you continually take care of the surface as should be, the one coat will never wear down enough to expose the paint. I have experimented with several customer cars. Some who care for their cars fully and completely as I suggest, some who do it on their own, and the last group of "it doesn't need that." After about a year, a difference can be seen. After two years, its very evident. And after three years, you could tell a difference in what the car was worth with a simple glance. My frequent customers who take my suggestions have perfect paint years later, the ones who do it on their own accord have decent paint, and the ones who don't do it at all have crap and come in asking what they need to do to clean it up to sell (to which I reply, "your cheap azz needs to go to maaco!")

I spent alot of time researching such ideas, and asked several manufacturers about the benefits of different application manners, additional coatings, etc. It all came down to the same thing every time. A well cared for (washed weekly, waxed quarterly) vehicle wouldn't need multiple coats, compounding or any other special services. I've run the same place for 5 years today, and I just like sharing my experiences to help others maintain a perfectly beautiful paint job!

 

I didn't take it as you saying I didn't know what I was talking about, so no offense taken. I truly want an extractor, but can't seem to justify it for my own vehicles and the few that I detial on the side. My Porter Cable and Makita suffice. I am very **** when I comes to my vehicles. I want that perfect finish but for some reason Ford likes to include orange peel at no additional charge... I like to learn others techniques. When one thinks they have learned it all, they might as well quit...It is always lots to learn.

 

I totally agree. I don't personally use the extractor, and I own and operate a shop. I use a cyclo dual head polisher for a carpet cleaner. Take off the polish heads and add the brushes, works miracles. (and only cost $349 instead of $1500)

And I like the ol, just when you think you know it all, some old dog comes up and teaches you a new trick

 

Thank you to everyone who offered their advice. I really appreciate it and learned a lot.