I have done searches on the PC, but still have a few questions...

I've always believed that I could take care of my my vehicles by hand, but I keep thinking about the PC, and all the raves it gets... Also, naturally since my truck is black I have acquired a few swirls, despite my care in washing it... So:

1. My biggest fear - when using the PC and an abrasive polish to remove swirls, aren't you actually removing a layer of the clearcoat? Consquently, over time wouldn't repeated polishings w/ the PC diminish/compromise your paint?

2. On Autopia there is a good article on how to use the PC... However, they state you must cover nooks and crannies, etc, due to slinging. This sounds like a lot of extra work, is it necessary?

3. I love clean glass... Can you use the PC on glass?

4. This one sort of goes back to #1, since we all know no matter how careful you are when washing you will continue to introduce new swirls (especially on black) Wouldn't it be a never ending cycle, thus further compromising the paint even more?

5. While polishing w/ the PC is it possible to intriduce micro-marring or additional swirls?

6. Does the cord get in the way, is a cordless model available?

7. I've read that the 7336 available at Lowes is identical, except for the counterweights, is this one better? (Less vibration...)

 

I have a lot of similar questions since I now own a black truck... Is it better to use something like that Porter-Cable or a "regular" buffer?

On the cord thing... You can buy cord covers that are made of cloth that would provide _some_ protection as long as they stay clean. If you have access to a sewing machine, you can easily make one yourself.

 

I am interested to what the seasond guys say about this also.
I have always wondered about your #1 myself.

 

Well I use the PC on my truck and have used it on other cars and trucks for the past three years and im still always reading as many well written topics as I can and learning so wish I could give you some advice but I think I will just leave it up to the veterans and learn some more myself.

 

1. Yes, you are removing some of the clear-coat... that's what makes the swirls disappear. Yes, if you use mild to strong abrasive polishes frequently, you can damage the clear. However, using mild to light polishes 2 to 3 times a year shouldn't hurt anything for many years.

2. "Slinging" is usually an issue with "rotary" buffers, and not PC's. However, you can get some sling with a PC if it isn't used properly. Always turn the machine "on" and "off" with the pad "on" the paint.

3. Yes, but be careful what products you use on glass. A clay bar, followed by Mother's chrome cleaner, followed by a good glass cleaner should get your windows "gleaming"!

4. Yes, it is somewhat an ongoing process. That's why the emphasis should be on using the proper washing/drying/QD'ing methods and detailing tools. (towels, mitts... Etc.) This helps "minimize" the need for extensive polishings.

5. Yes! Using a product or the machine incorrectly. Using the "wrong" product "correctly" can induce swirls. Also, using a dirty/damaged pad can induce swirls.

6. Put the cord behind your back, and over your shoulder. They even make harnesses to hold the cord away. I've done it for years without a harness without any problems. The "Cordless" models are worthless.

7. They are identical other than the backing plates.

With all that said, the PC is a very easy tool to learn how to use. With a little reading, a little common sense and some practice "anybody" can do a pretty good job without worring about damaging the paint, or inducing more swirls.

 

Thanks Boss...

So keep the polishing to once or twice a year... Do you apply your other waxes/sealants w/ the PC too, to justify having it, and just buff by hand?

What would your recommendations be for a forgiving, yet effective polish to start with?

Also what pads, backer plates are needed for all aspects of detailing?

 

I'm not Boss but... here's my interpretation...

While many folks don't like to apply a last step product (LSP) (ie: sealant, wax, etc) with a PC, I do. Some contend that the abrasion caused by the pad and the product on the paint can remove any 'fillers' that might have been utilized to help mask swirls but, thus far with my experience on multiple vehicles, I really haven't found this to be the case. In short, I let the machine do the work and apply little to no downward pressure; only the weight of the machine is downward and all I do is move it around. Additionally, some contend that it could actually cause swirls but, I don't find this to be the case at all when the PC is utilized properly and in a very smart manner. -- Common sense goes for miles with the PC. Be smart with this machine and you can accomplish a lot in a shorter amount of time.

Definitely remove by hand. A bonnet on a PC is okay but, again, you want complete removal of your haze and the PC simply can't get into the 'tight spots'.

What color is your vehicle?

Backing plates for the PC are pretty simplistic. They just screw on and lock in place. The plates are Velcro on one side to allow for simplistic pad changing between products/steps. Meguiar's makes a good backing plate that is reasonably priced. Stick with the 6.5" pads and backing plate as the 8" ones are simply too big for the PC and will wear the bearings in an accelerated fashion.

As for pads, different folks like different pads. The bottom line is that you want a pad that is suited for your product. For me, I typically only deal with two pads on the PC... one is a polishing pad that is utilized with any type of 'polishing product' and the other is a finishing pad which may be utilized to apply a coat of a LSP.

RP

 

Thanks RP...

Color is black