Want To Remove Wet Sanding Swirl Marks
#1
03-25-2006, 03:43 PM
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Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
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Want To Remove Wet Sanding Swirl Marks
I just brought home my 1966 Thunderbird from having some body work done and painted candyapple red. It has a base coat/clearcoat. The paint looks great in daylight, but under a lamp you can still see light scratches and swirl marks from wet sanding.
My question is what kind of product can I use on a freshly minted paint job? I'm a bid fan of Meguiar's products and have used them for years. I've tried #40, #9, and #7 but the marks are still there. These products work great on my '05 Supercrew 4X4, which is black.
I use a PC, and am experienced with detailing my vehichles but I'm stuck on this one. A buddy suggested using a 3M product called Final Glaze. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to crank up the speed on my PC and continue using my Meguiar's products, or does anyone have product suggestions?
All recommendations would be appreciated. I'm happy to have my 'Bird return to the nest and I just want her to look her best!
Cheeseman
My question is what kind of product can I use on a freshly minted paint job? I'm a bid fan of Meguiar's products and have used them for years. I've tried #40, #9, and #7 but the marks are still there. These products work great on my '05 Supercrew 4X4, which is black.
I use a PC, and am experienced with detailing my vehichles but I'm stuck on this one. A buddy suggested using a 3M product called Final Glaze. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to crank up the speed on my PC and continue using my Meguiar's products, or does anyone have product suggestions?
All recommendations would be appreciated. I'm happy to have my 'Bird return to the nest and I just want her to look her best!
Cheeseman
#3
03-25-2006, 04:28 PM
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Can't speak from experience yet, but i know 80 and 83 are very common for taking out swirls with a PC. Your best bet to avoid extra work and posible damge, try out the www.meguiars.com online forums. I lurk over there alot and they are some great detailers that are more than willing to help out noobs with advice. Defintely check it out before you try anything else, good luck!
#4
03-25-2006, 04:49 PM
Indeed, there are some good detailers over at MOL -- I used to moderate there as well... seriously though, I think it's very important to understand the level at which your paint was applied. If it's very 'soft', you may be removing some and reintroducing others...
Lots of times, new paint is a MONSTER to work with.
Lots of times, new paint is a MONSTER to work with.
#5
03-26-2006, 12:11 AM
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Thanks for your replys guys. Regarding the paint being "baked" I'm not certain. After base and clear applied, the paint booth was kept warm but heat lamps were not used. Nothing really high tech.
The clear is pretty soft and I don't want to unknowingly cause harm due to being over eager to work on the paint. I will check out Meguiar's online for additional info.
By the way, nice rig Redsoxfan. And RockPick, yours looks, well, okay too.
The clear is pretty soft and I don't want to unknowingly cause harm due to being over eager to work on the paint. I will check out Meguiar's online for additional info.
By the way, nice rig Redsoxfan. And RockPick, yours looks, well, okay too.
#6
03-26-2006, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Cheeseman
I just brought home my 1966 Thunderbird from having some body work done and painted candyapple red. It has a base coat/clearcoat. The paint looks great in daylight, but under a lamp you can still see light scratches and swirl marks from wet sanding.