OK This question isn't about a f-150 but it is about a ford car. I have a 1966 Ford Mustang 289 High Performance. I have put over 12,000 dollars into this car and as you can imagine I am very picky about what I use on it. What is the best wax I can use. All the waxes I have tried seem to beed up into hard little ***** when I am buffing the wax off causing swirl marks if I were to keep rubbing. I need a wax with no consequences at all. Thanks.

 

I think you'll find many good products out there and personal preference certainly comes into play here. My personal favorite is the Zaino line of products. I've never had the problem you described. I'm sure you'll get some other fine suggestions too. Enjoy your Mustang!

 

I'm currently using Mothers California Gold Pure Carnuba (liquid form) over top of Meguairs NXT.
The wax does not bead up. Wipe it off just before it goes real dry using a good microfibre cloth and don't do it in direct sunlight or when the car is very hot.

Mind you, if you are like some of us detailaholics, you should be up at 6:00am just starting the wash and taking the last coat of wax off as the sun goes down so that shouldn't be a problem

P.S. We need pictures of the Stang

 

see if you can find a product called RACE GLAZE. they usually sell it at auto stores. I have been using this on my truck, car, snowmobilies and never once has any swirling happened. Seems to last as well. I learned about it from a relative who collects corvettes. He said most of the guys with vettes use the product and its very popular with the 1950 Chevy crowd at the shows as well.

 

Hi F150 SuperTruck --

You've asked a VERY subjective question that nearly everyone here will have an answer to. In short, it's personal preference.

Let's talk a bit about why the wax is balling up and is difficult to remove though...

Wax, in and of itself, is applied to a painted surface in an effort to help seal the paint from the environmental aspects that could prove to be detrimental and cause fading, oxidation, and other paint problems. Obviously, you can't see the wax on the surface of a vehicle and, for that case, it's only measurable by very sophisticated instruments that can measure film build... nothing that most have.

So, knowing that it's ULTRA-THIN, the best way to handle application of the actual product from the container to the surface of your paint is to apply it in VERY VERY VERY thin coats. In short, you almost don't want to see it being applied.

The days of applying 'Rain Dance' or other hard paste waxes so thick that you have to get out the wood chisel to remove them have passed. Today's modern waxes are to be applied VERY thin and, typically, they're VERY easy to remove.

1966, pending it has original paint, will be a single stage paint. This is different from today's modern finishes in that today's paint will have a clear coat (clear paint) over the top of the color coat. This, in turn, makes the finish more durable and less prone to scratching and such. Single stage paint is a bigger beast to take care of because of that fact. In short, you can use the clear paint to remove swirls and such but, you don't have that luxury with the single stage because you're removing actual paint to return it to normal -- and, again, the film build on the painted surface may or may not have enough paint to allow you to remove the blemish.

With respect to products, there are lots of great ones on the market. Just about everything that you can pick up on the shelf has some merit or use. Some are much better than others though. My recommendation would to be to stick with a good brand name like Mothers, Meguiar's, or something similar. I typically avoid products from Turtle and anything that is named 'NU'. Currently, I have two coats of NXT layered with two coats of Meguiar's #16. Prior to now, I had two coats of Meguiar's Premium Paint Protection (MPPP) with two coats of #16 on top. Prior to that, I had one coat of NXT with one coat of #26... well, you get the picture.

I experiment with products alot. You'll find that some products will yield different 'looks' once you really get your eye trained in on the reflection/refraction of the light and also to the depth versus glossy-look of the product. I would never claim to look at a painted finish protected with Product X and tell you that it's Product X but, I can certainly tell a difference between individual products side by side.

Bottom line, go with what works for you but remember the basics of application:

1. Apply in VERY thin coats.
2. Always apply two coats (or more -- but remember that you're only going to get so much build before you're removing the layer prior to the one you're putting on).
3. Remove with ultra-nice microfiber towels -- no wal-mart cheapies here. Spend some $$ for some towels -- they are VERY worth it.
4. Technique, technique, technique! Don't force the wax off of the paint -- little to no hard downward pressure should be needed to remove today's modern products.
5. Remember technique and process when you're actually washing and caring for your paint -- simple things like the two-bucket method, washing from top to bottom, and using dedicated sponges/mitts for certain grungy areas can save you a lot of hassle in the long run.

In my small detailing business, I try to specialize in taking the best care of a painted finish that I can using common sense, good products, and a lot of time and patience. On both my client's vehicles and on my own, I find that this technique and procedure helps to yield a vehicle that stands out from the crowd.

RP

 

I tear up every time RP goes into details on detailing!

 

Well... here ya go.

 

Thanks for all the help. I tried a wax today that is called Zymol. It seemed to work well. I just ordered $2,500 worth of stuff for my 66, so as soon as I get all of that done and over with I will post some pictures of it. Thanks again.