I'm soo eager to get mine in, you're soo lucky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ahh... it's not THAT big!

 

Hey RP, this thing really is THAT big!

It's huge and pretty heavy too.

 

Yeah yeah yeah... LOL!

The real question is... WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT IT?

BTW, I told you it was big...



Dog's tennis ball in there for scale...

 

lol deltascrew had a good idea by using his truck for scale so I snagged it. I don't have time to put it to the test tonight but maybe tomarrow I will.

 

F150 AZ, Did you go with the 2500? In your pic it looks larger than mine.
BTW I have used mine at night (temps less than 100) and got much better results

You will be amazed at how it transforms your soap!!!

 

Yeah I went with the 2500, just because I think it'll save more water (not having to let water run through for the regeneration process) and I won't have to regenerate it as much, most of the vehicles I detail are large trucks or SUVs, I'm not into detailing professionally or anything, mostly my family and friend's vehicles. Uncle's got a new Tundra and a lifted Silverado 2500 HD, Dad's got a QX56, Brother's got an Expedition, Aunt's got an Expediton, and there's 2 LS430s in there plus my own F-150 (ahem, the best truck of them all). None of them take care of their trucks or have time to and like me doing it anyways.
And I read RPs extensive review on Meguiars online and so i hear, the wash solution is dramatically different with soft water. Thanks for the tip at night btw.

 

Hey SpotFree owners..I have some questions.
How do you store yours?
And do you "tote" yours, I saw a picture in the brochure that has the spotfree system mounted on something, with the guy washing the plane.
Even though the spot free unit itself is reversable, do you rotate it to make it more efficient?
And does the pre filter w/ the carbon block have to stand up?
And the test strips seem to be reading wrong, I followed the directions correctly and just dipped it in for a sec and removed it and shook off excess and let the colored side sit up for 15 seconds, plus the everything is stored at room temp and it hasn't chantged colors. The TDS meter read 475 ppm.

Thanks

 

On the shelf in my garage. I typically try to drain as much out of it as I can. I put the two end caps on and put it away.

I have once or twice but it was just putting it in a large cardboard box. Nothing fancy. I do recall the picture that you're mentioning... it seems to me that one could very easily fabricate some sort of device to make it a 'mobile' filter. A few casters, a couple of sheets of 1/2 plywood... you're good to go.

I have since day one. I actually labeled the ends A & B. I do my best to rotate it. Not sure if it helps but, in my mind, it makes sense that it would.

It's a closed vessel. Water pressure going in will be equal in all directions within the vessel. It doesn't matter if it's upside down or right side up.

Hmm... depends on what the strip is testing for... my hunch is that it's more Ca and Mg that it's testing for. TDS will measure ALL dissolved solids rather than just Ca & Mg. In short, maybe your water is in fairly good shape when it comes to Ca & Mg (the main precipitates in 'hard' water).

Just a hunch there... not positive.

I'm going to bring a couple of the water quality meters home from work (mind you, we do a LOT of this stuff) and get a few more parameters off of the filter including conductivity, ORP, and pH. I'm not exactly sure what it'll tell me from a 'logic' standpoint but, some backtracking after figuring out before and after will be interesting work...

RP

 

I am very interested in your results

 

i bought a dehumiifier for my condo. I use the water it sucks out of the ari to rinse my truck. NO SPOTS!!. I rinse it with a hose and then pour buckets of the dehumidifier water on it. Beautiful!!

 

Hi Guys,

These look pretty cool, I used to have something similar, but smaller for my saltwater fishtank.


How do you regenerate the resins / media within the filter? Sorry if I missed this within the post.

Thanks

 

Regen is by simple softening salt. The salt displaces the Ca- and Mg- (among others) that are attached to the resins. The unit actually comes with a 'salt cartridge' specifically for this task that replaces the carbon block filter in the pre-filter unit. Fill that cartridge up with salt, crank up the hose, allow it to flow through dissolving the salt and carrying it into the filter -- this takes around 10 minutes or so -- and then shut it off... flush it with a bit more 'tap' water, and you're good to go.

Obviously, regen cycles are dependent upon water quality.

A little trick that I'm noticing that is working -- I'm running TWO cartridges of salt through the filter on each regen... it actually seems to work a little better from a spotting standpoint. Although, I'll admit, it may all be in my head and I'm wasting salt... *shrugs*

 

Hey RP,
Will I ever need to replace the carbon block filter in the pre-filter unit? Sorry I think it was already covered but I don't remember what it said.

I think I have ocd, sometimes I've used M07 when it won't add probably anything to white paint especially after using M80 on it. In my mind it does.

 

Thanks RP,

Good to know, does it say (Estimate) how many times the media can be regenerated? What type of salts are used? Rock salt? Does the resin / media change colors to let you know it's exhausted and needs regen?

I used some cation / anion (sp.) in the past that had to be regenerated with bleach, so I'm glad that's not the case here.


F150, not to answer for RP, but I think you will need to change the carbon prefilter as it removes chlorine as well as some disolved solids within the water, how often would depend on your water quality and usage.

Thanks for the info