Considering Spot Free Water Filter
#48
#49
#51
#52
Yeah I went with the 2500, just because I think it'll save more water (not having to let water run through for the regeneration process) and I won't have to regenerate it as much, most of the vehicles I detail are large trucks or SUVs, I'm not into detailing professionally or anything, mostly my family and friend's vehicles. Uncle's got a new Tundra and a lifted Silverado 2500 HD, Dad's got a QX56, Brother's got an Expedition, Aunt's got an Expediton, and there's 2 LS430s in there plus my own F-150 (ahem, the best truck of them all). None of them take care of their trucks or have time to and like me doing it anyways.
And I read RPs extensive review on Meguiars online and so i hear, the wash solution is dramatically different with soft water. Thanks for the tip at night btw.
And I read RPs extensive review on Meguiars online and so i hear, the wash solution is dramatically different with soft water. Thanks for the tip at night btw.
Last edited by F-150 AZ; 08-24-2006 at 01:13 AM.
#53
Hey SpotFree owners..I have some questions.
How do you store yours?
And do you "tote" yours, I saw a picture in the brochure that has the spotfree system mounted on something, with the guy washing the plane.
Even though the spot free unit itself is reversable, do you rotate it to make it more efficient?
And does the pre filter w/ the carbon block have to stand up?
And the test strips seem to be reading wrong, I followed the directions correctly and just dipped it in for a sec and removed it and shook off excess and let the colored side sit up for 15 seconds, plus the everything is stored at room temp and it hasn't chantged colors. The TDS meter read 475 ppm.
Thanks
How do you store yours?
And do you "tote" yours, I saw a picture in the brochure that has the spotfree system mounted on something, with the guy washing the plane.
Even though the spot free unit itself is reversable, do you rotate it to make it more efficient?
And does the pre filter w/ the carbon block have to stand up?
And the test strips seem to be reading wrong, I followed the directions correctly and just dipped it in for a sec and removed it and shook off excess and let the colored side sit up for 15 seconds, plus the everything is stored at room temp and it hasn't chantged colors. The TDS meter read 475 ppm.
Thanks
Last edited by F-150 AZ; 08-24-2006 at 08:28 PM.
#54
Originally Posted by F-150 AZ
Hey SpotFree owners..I have some questions.
How do you store yours?
How do you store yours?
And do you "tote" yours, I saw a picture in the brochure that has the spotfree system mounted on something, with the guy washing the plane.
Even though the spot free unit itself is reversable, do you rotate it to make it more efficient?
And does the pre filter w/ the carbon block have to stand up?
And the test strips seem to be reading wrong, I followed the directions correctly and just dipped it in for a sec and removed it and shook off excess and let the colored side sit up for 15 seconds, plus the everything is stored at room temp and it hasn't chantged colors. The TDS meter read 475 ppm.
Just a hunch there... not positive.
I'm going to bring a couple of the water quality meters home from work (mind you, we do a LOT of this stuff) and get a few more parameters off of the filter including conductivity, ORP, and pH. I'm not exactly sure what it'll tell me from a 'logic' standpoint but, some backtracking after figuring out before and after will be interesting work...
RP
#55
#56
Originally Posted by deltascrew
Has anyone tried the Spot Free Water Filter? The water spots on my truck are driving me crazy.
Rockpick, are you still satisfied with your purchase. Have you had to replace the prefilter yet?
I found one for $314.00 plus s/h
schumans
Thanks in advance
Rockpick, are you still satisfied with your purchase. Have you had to replace the prefilter yet?
I found one for $314.00 plus s/h
schumans
Thanks in advance
#57
#58
Regen is by simple softening salt. The salt displaces the Ca- and Mg- (among others) that are attached to the resins. The unit actually comes with a 'salt cartridge' specifically for this task that replaces the carbon block filter in the pre-filter unit. Fill that cartridge up with salt, crank up the hose, allow it to flow through dissolving the salt and carrying it into the filter -- this takes around 10 minutes or so -- and then shut it off... flush it with a bit more 'tap' water, and you're good to go.
Obviously, regen cycles are dependent upon water quality.
A little trick that I'm noticing that is working -- I'm running TWO cartridges of salt through the filter on each regen... it actually seems to work a little better from a spotting standpoint. Although, I'll admit, it may all be in my head and I'm wasting salt... *shrugs*
Obviously, regen cycles are dependent upon water quality.
A little trick that I'm noticing that is working -- I'm running TWO cartridges of salt through the filter on each regen... it actually seems to work a little better from a spotting standpoint. Although, I'll admit, it may all be in my head and I'm wasting salt... *shrugs*
#59
Hey RP,
Will I ever need to replace the carbon block filter in the pre-filter unit? Sorry I think it was already covered but I don't remember what it said.
I think I have ocd, sometimes I've used M07 when it won't add probably anything to white paint especially after using M80 on it. In my mind it does.
Will I ever need to replace the carbon block filter in the pre-filter unit? Sorry I think it was already covered but I don't remember what it said.
I think I have ocd, sometimes I've used M07 when it won't add probably anything to white paint especially after using M80 on it. In my mind it does.
#60
Thanks RP,
Good to know, does it say (Estimate) how many times the media can be regenerated? What type of salts are used? Rock salt? Does the resin / media change colors to let you know it's exhausted and needs regen?
I used some cation / anion (sp.) in the past that had to be regenerated with bleach, so I'm glad that's not the case here.
F150, not to answer for RP, but I think you will need to change the carbon prefilter as it removes chlorine as well as some disolved solids within the water, how often would depend on your water quality and usage.
Thanks for the info
Good to know, does it say (Estimate) how many times the media can be regenerated? What type of salts are used? Rock salt? Does the resin / media change colors to let you know it's exhausted and needs regen?
I used some cation / anion (sp.) in the past that had to be regenerated with bleach, so I'm glad that's not the case here.
F150, not to answer for RP, but I think you will need to change the carbon prefilter as it removes chlorine as well as some disolved solids within the water, how often would depend on your water quality and usage.
Thanks for the info