I just like t know if I can polish and wax my truck after washing of course. With out claying it? Anyway, I just clayed it I think less than 2 months ago? Planning to use also Scratch-X, Cleaner Wax, Carnuaba Wax, then NXT. Any opinion and suggestion will be a big help.

 

I always read that it isn't good to clay more than once a year unless the conditions need it. reason being is because claying is like compounding but not as deep and over claying can remove clear/paint over time.

 

I have a bit of a varying opinion about this...

Clay, in my opinion, is very safe and is not nearly as harsh as compounding. I do, however, concur that it shouldn't be done 'oodles of times' per year but, by the same token, I'd say 2 or 3 would be more than fine.

Different environmental conditions yield different paint conditions. With that in mind, I'd do it as necessary but not just to be doing it. If it feels pretty 'rough', go ahead. Most people don't work in an area where it'd be advantageous to do it frequently and thus, they shouldn't.

In short, if it's needed, go for it. If not, don't risk it.

RP

 

well put, I was thinking that but couldn't find the right words to express it.

 

Rockpick,

How often do you clay yours?

Do you clay yours every time you polish?

 

One of the easiest ways to determine if you need to clay is take a plastic sandwich bag and slip your hand in it and gently rub it accross the paint surface. If you feel a "drag" on the bag you probably need to clay. On a clean surface the bag will have very minimal or no drag what so ever. Don't know if this is a "scentific" method or not, but I've been using it as a gauge to compound and wax single stage paint since the sixties and to clean and wax the clearcoats since they were introduced.

 

Ehh... probably 4. Generally speaking, it's a quarterly event for my environmental conditions... that's probably being a little bit **** retentive too.

Nope. Only if it's needed. Again, claying to be claying is 1) a waste of time and 2) kind of dangerous as you are exposing yourself to a potential problem when you clay as it *is* an abrasive cleaning technique. Why present a chance to hurt your paint when you don't need to?

RP

 

Part of the risk depends on the clay. There is professional grade clay, which comes in different "hardness/softness" for lack of better terms. In other words, a professional detailer might use some less maleable clay on a particular vehicle, which would greatly increase the chances of ruinng the paint, but coud also mean that you'll spend less time and get more off (if you do it right)

On the other hand, there is softer clay which can be used more often, and is much more forgiving. For those of you who like to clay, I would reccommend this stuff. Mostly, the softer stuff is at Autozone, O'reilleys, etc. (Ex.: Mothers clay bar, Clay Magic, etc.)

Usually, each company has it's own color code for the clays. I believe RP has more information as to this code.

 

See, with mine I'll do it 2-3 times a year, as with the rest. It is one of the steps that I always do. This is mainly due to fallout from the casting plant I work next to. Guys from Windsor Know what I mean. Feel you're hood, side etc. if it's smooth, why bother. A pre-wax cleaner will usually do a pretty good job alone.

 

Yeah. I live in a train town with lots of loading & unloading, so there's lotsa' semis, etc causing pollution, so mine gets the clay about 3x per year. Aside from that, regular washing and waxing, with the occasional cleaner does the trick very nicely. In fact, if you play your cards right, you can really only clay 1 time per year, but this involves weekly washing (minimum), garaging at work and home, wiping down daily with QD and a MF, and cleaning/waxing monthly (if not more.)

Either way, as long as you're careful, you really don't have much to worry about. Meg.'s has a new claybar out, and it's supposedly really soft, and is very forgiving, so if you're qestioning yourself, Mothers or Meg.'s is probably the way to go. Both come with a cleaner wax, QD, and clay, and are self-explanatory.

Basically, you can't really go wrong unless you don't follow the instructions or you have a horrid situation on your hands...at least, that's what I've seen in my experience...

Good luck

 

Even though there are different 'flavors' of clay on the market, I have yet to come across a vehicle where I was forced to use 'Aggressive' clay.

I suspect the body shop guys may have some use but, within the detailing realm, I believe that the situations where it's needed are scarce... very scarce.

In fact, when we were detailing the vehicle shown below (a rental from the local airport that was in HORRIBLE condition upon arrival at Meguiar's), we 'tried out' the aggressive clay. It marred the absolute hell out of the paint...

My advice... stick with the 'standard, plain Jane' stuff.



RP

 

Yeah...as I said...softer is more forgiving. Hey RP...Do you know when Meg.'s will be in the Dallas area? I would like to attend a seminar they have, nd/or would like training on a rotary (but am too scared to just teach myself on my ride...).
Thanks, and good luck to those of you about to clay.

 

Even if they do anything down in the Dallas area, I seriously doubt that they'd be weilding a rotary.

You see, the day-long classes are focused on enthusiasts, not shade tree detailers. While it would hurt NOTHING going off to one of their clinics -- quite the contrary, they are very good informational tools -- I don't think you're going to get any experience on a rotary. You will, however, get an opportunity to handle a G-100 and to get the feel for it.

They had a clinic in Texas not too terribly long ago I think... I cannot recall though.

I'd target one, if you have to travel over to one, that is being taught by Mike Pennington...

 

I'll certainly look into that. Do you work on airport cars, or your own, or one provided by them??? And Mike Pennington would be, in my best guess, a great detailer/instructor (like yourself)?? Yeah, I'll definately look for one of their clinics.

Do you know how/where I can get experience with a rotary w/o just having to try it on one of my own vehicles? If not, what would be my best plan of action for getting the hang of a rotary (after I get the hang of a G-1000)?

I know you mentioned at one point to get a junk hood from the junkyard.. how can I find one that's got a clearcoat? Is there some way to tell? (Obviously I'm not a paint expert...)

Thanks again for your help.

 

HI bud... I don't work on airport cars -- that's just what they had for us at the Meg's 3-day Advanced Course that I attended. They provided it. Most of the time, at the day long sessions, they look for volunteers to 'donate' their paint to the class. Naturally, you end up with a KILLER looking vehicle at the end of the day but, it'll make you nervous... especially if they get out the 1500 grit (see the rentals trunk top?) That's 1500 grit with a Mirka sander. LOL! That, for me, was a scary tool. LOL!

It's the G-100... I knew what you meant.

As far as practice, I HIGHLY recommend getting a hood from the junkyard. Get something that is 1996 or better and you're pretty much assured a clearcoated finish. Avoid Chevrolet around 1997 and back -- they were trying that water-based stuff then and they were still trying to figure it out. It's a BOOGER to work on and not a good place to learn as you'll toss your rotary out the window in a hurry...

As for Mike Pennington, he's, for one, a fantastic guy. Very easy to talk to. Unbelievably knowledgable (not only about Meg's stuff) and a total motor head. I can't say enough good about him.

RP