Well this is new to me even at the age of 34. I have never heard of this concept and would like to know some pro's and con's with it. I use this...

http://www.waterless-wash.com/detailing_products.htm

With absolutely no problems with build up or dulling, but heck, even **** can be improved. Advice please, I am curious about this "clay" topic that seems so highly recommended. What does it do?

 

Clay is an abrasive technique (don't worry--it's not hard to do and not too dangerous) that removes embedded contamination from the paint. It basically lifts out the bad stuff that causes your paint to be rough. (Everything from driven-in bugs to environmental contamination--sap, to industrial fallout, etc.) The way you can tell if you need to clay is to simply feel the surface of your paint, and if it doesn't feel like glass, time to clay. (You can also use saran wrap and drag it across the surface of your paint. If it doesn't slide easily, time to clay.)

The process behind it is simple. Wash car, use cleaner wax, clay, finish with either polish then wax, or just wax.

To use the clay itself, simply use plenty of lube (clay lube is usually a Quick Detailing a.k.a. QD spray), knead the bar to the shape of a waffle, and gently move back and forth on the paint, on a 3' x 3' space. Knead the bar between every 3' section, and trash the bar if it drops. In order to keep costs down, I reccommend cutting the bar into 2 or 4 pieces, and placing the unused pieces in a ziploc bag with a squirt of QD spray. If/when the pieces get dirty (just from what you removed from the truck), time to get a new piece out.

Just a note: I reccommend claying from top to bottom, to prevent bringing the nastiness from the bottom to the top of the truck. Remember, it's not very easy to see this contamination, but it can certainly be felt.

I don't expect you'll have any problems with clay, but Good luck anyway.

 

Definitely try a search... there are several 'how-to' write ups that have been authored by several here. Be patient during your search as there will be a lot of hits. The info is there though...

I know that's a 'cop out' answer but, it's been gone over in great detail several times... seems silly to reinvent the wheel sometimes...

 

Well I appreciate the info guys. I must be doing something right since the saran wrap test worked pretty good to me. I had little drag when i put a piece in between my hand and the truck and applied light pressure but I did find a knick I didn't know I had . I will research this subject though and when the time comes, I will know what to do. Thanks again.

 

Even better than the suran wrap test (which I personally find goofy) is to simply run your clean hand across your clean paint after washing. Feel those little 'bumps'? That's bonded contamination that wasn't removed when you washed.

If your truck has never been clayed, I can assure you that it's going to have some -- that is if you pull it out of the garage on occasion.

Your paint, in a perfect situation, should feel like GLASS with NO texture at all.

 

After I clayed a couple of week ago I ran my hand across the paint and it was as smooth as could be. But when I put my hand in a sandwich bag I could feel some roughness in some places.

RP is the sandwich bag test a gimmick used to sell the clay product??

I mean my paint felt smooth. I even put a dry Meg's microfiber towel on my hood and it slid off cuz it was so smooth.

 

If you use your truck that week. For sure you will catch some dirt that will stuck to your paint especially on hoods. A simple physics... some friction/heated surface could drive a sort of "magnetic reaction" for some particles. Dusting when it cools and using Detailer Spray and Microfiber will put back your paint in a smooth feel. Besides, atleast is saves water and car shampoo as compare to washing.

 

Well, I guess it boils down to your ****-retentiveness. *shrugs*

The hand test is more than adequate to me. I'd be worried that a 'crisp' edge on a sandwich back might scratch.

If a towel is sliding off your hood on its own, how much more do you want? LOL!

 

Well when the towel slid off, I was completely satisfied, I just wanted to check in with you about the sandwich bag test that I see them using over at claymagic.com

Thanks buddy!

 

A buddy of mine has an older F150 that has visible badly oxidized paint. Will the clay remove that as well, or is far gone just to gone?

 

Clay doesn't remove oxidation, a rubbing comppound will (ie: Meg.'s step 1, or any cutting compound). Clay merely removes CONTAMINATION. (ie: industrial fallout, mineral deposits, driven-in bugs, tree sap, road tar, etc...)

I would definately take some sort of aggressive cutting compound to his paint, working towards a finer cut, until you get to polish with #80 or the like. Then follow with a good wax. All of this IF he has a clearcoat. RP should be able to tell you whether he has a clearcoat based on year, etc. (I believe before 1997 they didn't use clear... but I could be wrong...)

If he doesn't have a clear, my advice runs out. I have never maintained a vehicle w/o a clear, but I know RP has some knowledge as to this subject. Do a search, b/c he's talked about this before...

Good luck with claying and fixing up your friend's truck. Hope this post helps you some.