I'm not looking for a rediculous price, over $25 is too much. I'm also looking for someone with experience with bad paint, really excessive scratching, dull, etc. I guess I'm looking for an experienced detailer's input. I had great results with the Scratchx, colorx and NXT combo, not great but fantastic...the scratches are there but well hidden. I read about the combo on here so gave it a try...worked very well. Colorx was surprisingly good so I'm curious what else you guys have in store. However, this combo does nothing to my tailgate after wetsanding, the dull is still there...improved but definitely still there. Now before you say I'm doing it incorrectly, I'm using 2000 grit wet/dry 3m paper, and soaking it before as well as constant lubrication directly on the paint. I guess I could go up to 2500-3000 but 2000 is almost finish quality.

First of all, I am using a spare panel I replaced after offroad damage. It's the old panel and I am practicing before using on my truck. After wetsanding (no matter how light the sanding was) the clear never seems to get back to it's original shine. It is probably because I'm using NXT synth wax instead of a good filler wax so I need your input as I'm practicing before taking it to my truck. Let me know guys, NXT is not a good idea after rubbing compound either. The carnauba wax at my old job was good at removing these ultra fine scratches and taking dull clear to a perfect shine. Unfortunately the best wax available @ Autozone is Mothers Carnauba (I think cleaner) wax and Carnauba Turtle Wax...maybe 1 or two others so I am looking to you guys for a good online wax to buy.

Thanks ahead of time. My camera was dropped in mud so I'm looking for a new one. If you have any inputs on a new camera to get I'm all ears on that one too

 

Are you going straight to waxing after wetsanding without buffing the paint? If so, that's where the problem is. Wet sanding even with 3000 grit is still sanding the paint. If you don't buff the paint afterwards, you'll be stuck with some degree of dull in the paint that hand waxing won't take out.

If this panel is a guinea pig, what are you waiting for? Now's the perfect time to get a rotary buffer and learn how to use it. Don't get scared of all the talk of ruining paint with it. Use light pressure with a foam pad and you'll be fine.
Can they burn paint? Yes. Saw it first hand at a Meguiars clinic. Rod Kraft was running the show that day and he turned his Makita up to 3500 RPM's with a wool (aggressive) bonnet and leaned on a donor hood haaaaaard.
Paint temp got up to 236 degrees and the paint was actually smoking. Afterward it looked like a bicycle tire smudged it slightly. Permanent damage, but I expected much much worse.

SL

 

Right now I'm using a Dewalt D83, Random Orbital buffer. Not by hand. I am sure an orbital buffer can do it so I'd like some input on whether it is wrong to use NXT to repair the wetsand.

I used a rotary for a while and actually started on one of those instead. Also a dewalt, the surfaces would get so hot I'd have to stop all the time to not burn the wax into the paint as it would often dry on the paint very quickly. I'm sure you guys know what I'm talking about.

 

I recommend that you hop on Meguairs website Meguiars Online for some more info.
Rotary and cleaners/compounds for fixing problems, prep for polishing, and if you're really good, polishing. Random orbital or D/A and polishes/waxes for finish up/polish work.
Try your rotary w/ some fine cut cleaner and a foam pad.

SL

 

If you wet sanded you will never get it looking good again unless you use a rotary buffer and some sort of finish glaze. I don't know what is out there for you to just buy off the shelf because i always use what we get off the Auto Magic truck. I have been a detail manager now for going on 7 years, and this is the only way I know to do it. Then go ahead and treat it as you normaly would about waxing. Hope this helps.

 

Proven method straight from body shops... clean with mild scotchbright pad and soapy water, do a waterbreak test, wetsand with 2500, then 3000 (very critical to have clean water, no dirt, and good technique, not to go through the clearcoat), then rotary buff with 3M's Perfect-it III, then meguires #7 deswirl remover, then wax with anything you want, but I prefer just a regular meguires yellow carnuba. Perfect-it III works great to make headlights/tailights/ and other polished plastic look like new again too. A rotary buffer with about 1800 rpm is a must though... not all that expensive.

 

#7 doesn't have any swirl removers. I think you are talking about #9. But i agree a rotary is a must and the 3m perfect-it is pretty easy to use. And then go with #9 and the #7 for some "pop".

 

yeah sorry, meant #9

 

Start sanding with your 2000, occasionaly drying to see how well the scratches are coming out. Get them looking pretty good, then go to 3000. All you're doing with it is knocking down the 2000 scratches. This is where the buffer comes in. Use compound and a foam pad. Here, you're knocking down the 3000 sratches. Next (with a different, or at least cleaned pad) apply a finishing glaze. Here you are knocking out the compound scratches. You should be coming to a good shine by this time. If not you will have to determine which scratches are showing through and go back to that step and start over from there. Finish up with a good wax. I paint at a body shop, and do this every day. It's not hard. Like the other guys have said, buffers are not hard to learn. Just don't get it up on an edge, and being new to them I would avoid wool pads.

Tips- Don't sand too far with the 2000. Run your fingernail across any big scratches. If your nail catches in it, chances are it's not going to sand out, so don't try. You can knock them down to look better, but don't try to take them out. If in the end you still have some scratches showing through, there are good colored (black, blue) waxes that will help a lot. Turtle wax makes some. Just make sure to get it the color of your truck

 

Thanks a lot brady, and the rest of you. That was very valuable info, particularly brady's, I'm going to give it a shot. I have to sand out some heavy duty rubbing compound marks from turtlewax's rubbing compound (very aggressive). I unfortunately have never seen a colored wax before but I'll keep an eye out.

 

Hey Josiah, looks like you got good info on repairing your finish, so I'll just give my 2c on the camera. Bought the Panasonic DMC-F7Z at the beginning of the year. It's everything the reviews said about it. I know new models have come out, but at the time it had an overall ranking higher the the Sony, Canon, etc in the model range. I'd highly recommend it to anyone.