Wash/Detail Process

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Old 10-15-2006, 06:11 PM
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Wash/Detail Process

An earlier post dealt with someone getting ready to wash and detail their truck and everyone seemed to agree with it. My question is, because I don't think it included it, do you wash again after you clay? I planned to

1. Wash and dry
2. Clay
3. Wash and dry again and tape off exterior plastics
4. Megs ScratchX
5. Megs Polish
6. Wax x 2 Coats
7. Megs exterior plastic cleaner/protectant
8. Stoners Glass Cleaner
9. Remove Tires to clean the interior wheel and use Megs HotShine Tire Product.
10. Interior cleaning

Any modifications to this process or products? Seems like a lot, but I have plenty of time on my hands this week. Wife's visiting her family in KY and I have the week off.

Also, I have two buckets right now. One for my sponges and one for my brushes. These are just standard buckets. I have heard that some of buckets withe something called grit guards or something. Where did or do you get them?

Any help is appreciated.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:22 PM
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Washing after clay is on a per basis type of thing. It always depends. If you don't have any residue than no, theres no sense in doing it other than subjecting the vehicles paint to more damage. But, if there is residue from claying than YES! I hope this helps!

Just make sure you wait 8 hours between each coat of wax.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:29 PM
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yah alot of ppl just lightly rinse and then dry after claying.
-Patrick
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:38 PM
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I think your process sounds good. I don't know your paint's condition, but you may not need to use something as agressive as scratch-x. If not, Step 1 works pretty well, and the aspect of cleaning the paint that it offers is definately an advantage.

As for the wax, you only need to wait between coats if it's synthetic. If it's carnauba based, than it's fine to do the vehicle then do it again. I'd go over it once, then go again as opposed to doing each panel 2x then moving on.
---BTW: If you're doing a carnauba, you may want the added protection of topping it with a synthetic...personal preference--also makes it more wet and glossy looking.

As for the buckets--Use one for soapy water and one with clean water to clean off your sponge/mitt/etc. before you re-dip it into the soapy water. Grit guards--I've only seen them online. You can, however, save money by using the thing your wife uses to let cookies cool (rack type item, usually stainless steel, and is made of wire type stuff--lets cookies cool from top and bottom. Works great to keep the mitt outta the nasty dirt and grime.

Just out of curiosity, what kind of wash are you using?

Sorry for the long post, and I hope everything turns out great. I'm sure you will love the results that you'll get with the system you described.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:56 PM
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I would only use the scratch x, on specific spots. it would take a lot of work to do the whole truck that way. Make sure you really work the scractch x to get the best results.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:00 PM
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Thanks for the replies so far.

I am planning to use the Megs Gold Class Wash Shampoo and Conditioner. I have been using the deep crystal car wash but I ran out the last time I washed both vehicles. I figured I would give the Gold Class a shot.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Redsoxfan
I would only use the scratch x, on specific spots. it would take a lot of work to do the whole truck that way. Make sure you really work the scractch x to get the best results.
I would agree... unless you need it all over the vehicle.

As far as washing after clay, as Thumper mentioned, it's very subjective. I don't do it unless I've really left a lot of 'goop' on the paint... I just don't see a big use for the second wash personally.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by themetermcse
Thanks for the replies so far.

I am planning to use the Megs Gold Class Wash Shampoo and Conditioner. I have been using the deep crystal car wash but I ran out the last time I washed both vehicles. I figured I would give the Gold Class a shot.
you can't go wrong with Meg's gold class shampoo .. just mix it per the directions..

as f-150sport03 and others said .. only use scratchx where you need it .. rule of thumb is always use the least abrasive product and process possible when removing defects.

also dead on about washing after claying .. unless you have a lot of residue, or you used car soap and water as a lube instead of QD spray .. there is usually no reason to wash after claying, prior to your next step.

I will usually do two coats of Meg's #21 (NXT would work fine here, #21 is the professional version of the synthetic), then top it with a coat of Mother's pure Carnuba, or Meg's # 26 carnuba ..

have fun .. and post pics when you are done.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by themetermcse
1. Wash and dry
2. Clay
3. Wash and dry again and tape off exterior plastics
4. Megs ScratchX
5. Megs Polish
6. Wax x 2 Coats
7. Megs exterior plastic cleaner/protectant
8. Stoners Glass Cleaner
9. Remove Tires to clean the interior wheel and use Megs HotShine Tire Product.
10. Interior cleaning

I would go in this order.. just to keep the exterior clean after it has been detailed.
10
1/Remove Tires to clean the interior wheel
2
3
4
5
6
7/use Megs HotShine Tire
8

I doubt the order really matters though. Claying will take forever if you do the whole truck. Took me forever atleast.
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Need4racin
Claying will take forever if you do the whole truck. Took me forever atleast.
True but once you do it really good the first time, its just a maintance after that...
-Patrick
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:15 PM
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While I got some of you here, what is the best drying techniques you have found? I have done blotting and side to side with good results. I've used the air compressor, with several filters, and a blower kit to blow out water from behind the badges and between the bedcaps and bed and fuel door.

Anyone got any better techniques?
 
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by themetermcse
While I got some of you here, what is the best drying techniques you have found? I have done blotting and side to side with good results. I've used the air compressor, with several filters, and a blower kit to blow out water from behind the badges and between the bedcaps and bed and fuel door.

Anyone got any better techniques?
You're hitting the nail on the head with all of those as what I consider to be the 'best' drying techniques...

OT -- I see you're in Tupelo... I did some work with a matress manufacturing company down there not too long ago. They were selling the building and we got involved in the transaction from an environmental standpoint. All hail Elvis.
 
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by themetermcse
While I got some of you here, what is the best drying techniques you have found? I have done blotting and side to side with good results. I've used the air compressor, with several filters, and a blower kit to blow out water from behind the badges and between the bedcaps and bed and fuel door.

Anyone got any better techniques?
This helps a lot......SpotFreeH2O
 
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:05 PM
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All you should really need to do afterwards is a pressure rinse off to get rid of the little bits of clay that may have been left over and all.
 



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