Hi all, I just picked up a '97 X-cab with the deep red (Torreador?) main color with a gold-tone lower stripe. While the paint is relatively clean with a good gloss to it, it is evident that the previous owner didn't really take care of it. You can see what I would call water stains where it appears that after he washed it he never really dried it so you can see some 'streaking' from water running down and evaporating. On top of that the paint is "checked" or "crazed" in several areas. I've been reading about clay block and the McGuires 3-step waxes and even the NXT(?) synthetic wax. I want to do as much re-conditioning of the paint as possible without going for the repaint.

Can you recommend what I should or shouldn't apply to this finish? Currently the spider cracks are'nt really visible unless you get right down there and look for them so I don't want to make them more noticeable or even start them to flaking or peeling.

Thanks in advance!

 

If you can get some pictures, i'm sure people could give you a lot better advice. But it sounds like some polishing is definitely going to be required. Do you have a DA polisher, or were you planning on going about it by hand?

 

Sounds like this thing has A LOT of problems that may require a rotary buffer (not the el-cheapo from Wal-Mart). I really think that you should consider spending a couple-hundred dollars and having it detailed professionally. The simple problems that you've described are VERY difficult to get out by hand.

However, if you're looking to just 'give it a stab', the items that you mentioned are certainly viable options. The 3-step system is, honestly, a decent deal that will not hinder your efforts. Following everything with NXT isn't a bad idea as it'll provide some decent protection.

The golden rule -- DON'T progress to the next step until you have the paint in the condition you want it during that step. When you start stepping backwards, you're going to have to do everything that was after it again.

Again though, consider a professional. Maintenance is quite simple versus solving the problems that you've described.

-RP-

 

Thanks for the input! I will see if I can get some decent pics of the problems and post them. Long ago I did alot of work in a custom car shop (Art Himsl if anyone has heard of him...) and I know that you only get what you start with. The McGuire's 3-Step and this Clay Bar thing are new to me. I don't have my DA any longer but I do have one of the 'el cheapo' orbitals that I've had for about 10 years. I don't mind spending the time to do it myself if it won't be an exercise in futility! I'm not hoping for a show truck but I would like to get rid of the 'water-staining' and make it smooth again.

 

Two different types of water spotting... one is ABOVE the paint, the other is BELOW and INTO the paint.

Do the spots feel like they are above the paint? Do they seem etched?

 

To me the water blemishes feel to be on top of the clearcoat. What I'm mainly wanting to get rid of is not what I would call distinct "water spots" as much as it is a kind of "sheen" that is on top of the paint. I can feel "roughness" but I have to be careful with that description as it's smooth but just not perfect. To me it should be a smooth as wet Jello! It's hard to explain but I guess I could say that the appearance reminds me of an "oil sheen" you see on a rainy street. It will be difficult I'm sure to get it to show up on a photo... As far as I can tell though, it is on the surface of the clearcoat.

 

Sounds like some sort of oxidation then... Kind of a 'cloudy' look?

 

Exactly. I went out tonight and tried to get a decent photo but no luck. In the dark however you can see a white oxide/cloudy look to it on the surface.

 

OK, I think you might be able to see what I'm talking about for the oxidation in this picture - look for the 'streaking':



This is an attempt at the small spider cracks or checks. Very hard to pick out but the edge of the shadow goes right through the middle of the "X" shaped crack. It doesn't look like it's too deep and you can't really see them unless you get right down and look for them, however I'm sure these are in the color coat below the clear coat:



Should I use the clay bar and the 3-step Deep Crystal Mcguires? I am not familiar with either of these produsts, but reading the 3-Step labels it looks like the step one is similar to the clay bar...? Or will I be needing something a little more aggressive?

 

The spider cracks are most likely a result of solvent pop and have been there since the vehicle was purchased -- or shortly there after... You're not going to be able to do anything to those. If I were you, I'd stay off of them with just about any type of product that you'd be applying to your paint. The cracks will fill with the material and make them look HORRIBLE.


Hard call, sight unseen.

My hunch is that you will need a rotary (high RPMs, and higher heat) but, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to do the full 3-step system.

Yes, I'd definitely go with the clay bar. It removes BONDED contamination -- not oxidation. It's a very different step.

RP

 

Thanks for the help and the info!

 

No problemo.

 

What would you do for oxidation? I don't have that problem but was curious to what would take it off.

 

Simply put, a more aggressive polish. #83 or the late/great MPPC (Medallion Cleaner) are my preferential choice.

 

RP, Thank you very much for all th tips you are throwing out here...

I would like your input on selecting a product specifically for removing the oxidation and light scratches as well as bringing back my depth of color and gloss (again, as much as possible without causing problems or repainting!).

I have been looking at the following products:

#2 Fine-Cut Cleaner

#9 Swirl Remover

#80 Speed Glaze

#83 DACP (or perhaps #82)

And finally the Color-X product.

I would like to be able to use my orbital buffer to apply if possible, and use either hand or orbital to remove using microfiber.

Which of the above do you feel would be my best bet, keeping in mind the small checks I have in my paint? (I will probably go after those lines with a really soft bristle brush to remove the residue prior to the final top wax)

Thanks!