I have a '06 F150 4x2 s-cab, basic blue, 3500 miles, no garage so out in the weather full time. I live in southeast Tennessee. I considered putting a coat of wax on before winter but that didn't work out so definately want to get a coat of something on asap when the weather warms up this spring.

My question is essentially, just at the very least, what type products should I be applying to my new vehicle and at what frequency? I know I know, its all relative and everybody has an opinion on how to go about caring for your vehicles finish, from the guy who spends hundreds of dollars on the entire product line from Adams and spends the entire weekend detailing to the guy who might buy a can of Turtle wax every year or so. I would prefer to shoot for something in the middle of those 2 guys because I do intend to keep this truck for a good long while.

Thanks in advance.

 

So far ive used the premium caranuba turtle wax (dark green can) and have had good results with a single coat. And i like to top it off with that Nu Finish polisher. Water beads up nicely for about 3 months, so thats about when i strip back whats left of the old wax and do it again

 

I have two coats of Zaino wax and 1 coat of meguiars so bring it on hard weather

I prefer to use Zaino and Meguiars detailing products

 

HavocX10: If you've been careful you can keep it looking really good with just a clay bar once, maybe twice a year, then use a good wax after washing and you should be set. Be sure to avoid doing damage to your finish by doing things like taking it to a carwash or drying with rough towels and you should have your work cut outf for ya.

Search for proper washing techniques and you'll find out how to wash your truck the right way so you don't do additional damage to your finish.

- NCSU

PS: Lets see your truck!!

 

Invest in the Meguiar's 3 step system (should run about $6-7 per bottle, x3 steps = $18-21) and a bottle of NXT or Synwax (Should run betwen 10 and 14 USD). Those are very good products, of which I still employ. They're great for the mid-range of car care. (Don't worry- you'll soon be like the rest of us; detailing freaks with an arsenal that rivals any one detailing shop...)

 

Ok... Here in a nutshell is what we tell some of our customers that want to take care of there new car, but don't want to invest the weekend working on their car or truck. or for that matter pay us to detail their vehicle (We Detail for a living)
First... Don't assume that the manufacturer has put anything on your paint to protect it... be safe and assume that it is in fact unprotected, start by washing thoroughly using the two bucket method, one for paint one for trim, bumpers and wheels, rinse and then chamois dry using a synthetic chamois (less expensive and as good as the genuire thing) this preventents water spots or mineral deposits from forming. If your paint is rough at all, (you can tell by running your hand over the front fenders, if your hand doesn't glide smoothly and effortlessly) then Clay your paint using a clay kit. Claying the paint removes any contaminents along with any embedded particles of dirt. Meguire's has one you can by at your local retailer for about $15. Follow the directions. Then apply a single good coat of pure Carnuba car wax (You can use synthetic polimer based waxes but they will not last nearly as long) and remove the applied wax using a cheese cloth type of buffing towel, If you want a higher gloss shine you can add a top coat of finish polish. Zymol, Meguires there are many to choose from. Or there is a product that used to be a favorite of mine called Liquid Glass. Overall it should take you between two and three hours to do the entire process and it should last between six and eight months. The other alternative is to have it professionally detailed which should run you between 125-175 and can be good for up to a year.

 

I don't mean to knock you or anything, but synthetics last longer (usually, depending on which syn vs. which carnauba), and NO detail lasts for a year. Water beading isn't the only indicator of wax presence. My truck beads water with or without, but it beads tighter and faster with wax. I don't know about the cheesecloth idea, either. I thought they'd only last for one or 2 uses, whereas Microfiber towels will withstand hundreds of washings and are MUCH safer and more forgiving.

HOWEVER--Yes for the 2 bucket method and clay. I didn't mention that because I didn't know how serious he is with his truck. My advice to you, Havocx10, is to do a full fledged detail the first time, then, maintenance is a snap. You really don't have to do much more than get it right the first time then maintain it. Once you've gotten rid of any swirls, polish and wax are easy. After a few months, rewax, and you're good to go.

Although the price of a DA buffer seems ridiculous when you're not really going to be babying your truck, let me tell you--it's worth every penny. Aside from doing the same amount of work in less than 1/2 the time, it's much less labor intensive and keeps your arms unsore. Believe you me, doing a full detail by hand is a Pain. Both literally and figuratively. Not to mention time consuming. Just my 2 cents.

 

Man, you guys are really sick with the stuff you know?

Its got 3500 miles on it. It doesn't need anything other than a wash and wax. Do it now, not later. If you don't want to do it in the cold, then go pay the $50 or so and get it done. There are multiple harsch things that will harm paint during the winter months, especially in the snowy mountains of SE TN.

And, for the record, no a detail does not last a year. And no offense to anyone meant here, but if you're detailer tells you it lasts a year, get a new detailer

 

Good clarification... Our details alone will not last a year I didn't mention the part about you having to do a second waxing at some point... Also for the average person using Carnuba is an easier process, taking the guess work out of which product to try and the additional expense of the synthetics. Also on dark colors you can end up having more swirl marks and reflections from synthetics that you typically will get with pure carnuba.

 

only thing I would add is clay it if you have time .. 98Navi is dead on .. get some protection on it now ..

 

Thanks for the great responses everybody. As far as doing a detail/wax job now, I was not nearly as concerend about myself and the cold, as I was about thinking that whatever product I ended up chosing, it was better to apply when it is warmer as opposed to 50 or below. I'll look into that further and see about getting a coat on asap.

 

Point taken--I have a flake silver truck--no problems for me...hides a lot of swirls...

You're probably right about average people using carnaubas--I'm just so "sick with it" ,to put it into 98Navi's words, that it's virtually common knowledge now...

 

You're correct in not assuming that protection exists on the vehicle from the factory. To put it even more directly, it doesn't come with ANYTHING from the factory other than clear coat (in nearly all instances).

The two bucket method that you've described isn't really the 'two bucket' system that I'd recommend.

The two-bucket system that, in my professional opinion, is MUCH more effective entails using two buckets - one full of fresh, clean water with no shampoo; the other has a shampoo mix (to the correct ratios). As you're washing FROM TOP TO BOTTOM working a single panel or half-panel at a time. Once a panel is washed, you move to the next panel AFTER rinsing your mitt in the clean water (further, I'd recommend Grit Guards in your buckets), then taking the mitt to the shampoo solution. I'd further recommend changing out the rinse and, if necessary, the shampoo solution a couple of times on an average dirty car. In short, if it looks dingy, change the water. It's dingy because of the contamination in the bucket that can, and will, increase the probability of inducing further swirling and/or marring.

Chamois is a fantastic water absorbing material however, it offers little to no 'nap' in the material to provide a 'safe-haven' for anything that may still be on your paint. In short, if you still have that one tiny grain of sand on your paint after washing, the chamois will produce an avenue to continually drag that sand grain back and forth across the paint causing severe problems.

For that reason, I'd recommend going with a nice waffle weave microfiber towel and BLOT drying the vehicle. Further, to minimize drying and general 'contact' with the paint, techniques like leaf blowers, water sheeting, and the use of 'softer' water should be used. Remember, the less contact that you have with your paint, the better because there's less chance to induce problems to the paint. Abrasion, of any degree, can be a bad thing.

Sorry man. Synthetics as a *rule* do last longer. That's no mystery. They do, however, yield a slightly different look than that of a 'natural' wax like a carnauba or a carnauba blended wax. I prefer the look of a carnauba but, greatly prefer the protection of a good synthetic like Zaino, NXT, or SynWax.

Uhh... again, I'd recommend going with something with some 'nap' to the towel. A high-quality microfiber towel like that of the alpine microfiber from DFTowel would be my recommendation. Again, the same reason as I dislike chamois. Additionally, the polish step should be BEFORE your last step protection process.

 

LG is a solid product and highly recommended by me and other professional detailers out there.

A full detail, however, can take anywhere from a few hours to a couple of days. There's no 'golden rule' here as to how long it's going to take. I've polished show cars to the tune of EIGHT steps before actually moving towards a last step product. Mind you, that was done over a two-day period and the detail job ran 'considerably more' than $120. The owner gladly paid the price and, in addition, left the nicest tip that I've received in my career. He's since pushed other business my way -- all of which were very clear as to my pricing plans and my paradigm on how to price a car.

Ludicrous. No other way to say it. Just because it was done professionally doesn't mean that it's going to last longer than any other Joe-Blow's at home detail job.

That Joe-Blow has access to exactly the same products that we have access to as professionals. Further, with resources like Autopia, MOL, and all the other detailing websites out there - they have access to information that we all divulge on a regular basis.

Just to be clear, I don't do this full time as a career. As such, I command a smaller, more discreet, type of clientèle. Further, I have declined taking on jobs because I didn't want them. I try to cater to folks who UNDERSTAND the work that I do and the value that I bring to their vehicle. No one really spends 'tidbits' of money to let me work on their paint but, I do deliver a quality work product -- albeit, on a part time basis (weekends).