claying pointless?
#16
02-21-2007 | 06:46 PM
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
Incorrect -- while it may abrade away some of the wax, it will not wholely remove all of the wax -- how can it?
You're not running 2000 grit across the surface -- you're running something like, what I would consider to be, 40,000 grit.
The 'stuff' that is stuck on the paint that was there prior to you waxing will leave gaps in your protection... in short, you encapsulated that 'speck' of 'stuff' when you waxed it into place. You've now removed that 'speck' of 'stuff' and thus, you need to get those 'speck places' re-coated.
All in all, it's a good idea to clay when you're going to be able to complete a full detail -- or, at a minimum, another full wax.
RP
You're not running 2000 grit across the surface -- you're running something like, what I would consider to be, 40,000 grit.
The 'stuff' that is stuck on the paint that was there prior to you waxing will leave gaps in your protection... in short, you encapsulated that 'speck' of 'stuff' when you waxed it into place. You've now removed that 'speck' of 'stuff' and thus, you need to get those 'speck places' re-coated.
All in all, it's a good idea to clay when you're going to be able to complete a full detail -- or, at a minimum, another full wax.
RP
#19
02-22-2007 | 01:46 PM
Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake Utah
I just recently bought My white screw.. And it had all that railroad dust on it... You know it looks like little rust spots on it everywhere. Well It took me about 4 hours to clay the whole truck but it looks awesome now!
Just a quick tip... you can use to much lube in this case. If you use to much detailing spray the clay does not get a chance to pick up any thing. So try this.. spray lightly about a 2 foot section and then use a terry cloth towel to run over it just to spread it evenly, then go over it with the clay. You will be much happier doing it this way. Remember me saying it took me 4 hours, well the first 2 hours was me using to much detailing spray and I wasnt getting the results I like. But try it this way and you should get better results!
Just a quick tip... you can use to much lube in this case. If you use to much detailing spray the clay does not get a chance to pick up any thing. So try this.. spray lightly about a 2 foot section and then use a terry cloth towel to run over it just to spread it evenly, then go over it with the clay. You will be much happier doing it this way. Remember me saying it took me 4 hours, well the first 2 hours was me using to much detailing spray and I wasnt getting the results I like. But try it this way and you should get better results!
#20
02-22-2007 | 02:14 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,390
Likes: 9
Originally Posted by SCREWedUPnUTAH
I just recently bought My white screw.. And it had all that railroad dust on it... You know it looks like little rust spots on it everywhere. Well It took me about 4 hours to clay the whole truck but it looks awesome now! Just a quick tip... you can use to much lube in this case. If you use to much detailing spray the clay does not get a chance to pick up any thing. So try this.. spray lightly about a 2 foot section and then use a terry cloth towel to run over it just to spread it evenly, then go over it with the clay. You will be much happier doing it this way. Remember me saying it took me 4 hours, well the first 2 hours was me using to much detailing spray and I wasnt getting the results I like. But try it this way and you should get better results!
Just a quick tip... you can use to much lube in this case. If you use to much detailing spray the clay does not get a chance to pick up any thing. So try this.. spray lightly about a 2 foot section and then use a terry cloth towel to run over it just to spread it evenly, then go over it with the clay. You will be much happier doing it this way. Remember me saying it took me 4 hours, well the first 2 hours was me using to much detailing spray and I wasnt getting the results I like. But try it this way and you should get better results!No chit?
I just spray & lube the crap outta it and it seems to work. The clay does it's own 'spreading' - squeegee effect, y'know ?
I thought I saw somewhere that you can never have too much lube (for claying you guys, jeez). Too much is preferable to not enough, so for noobs like me it's better to err on the side of caution.
BUT, what do I know anyways? Until recently (thanks RP!), I, like my pals, did not know a clay bar from Zest
Cheers
Bubba
#21
02-22-2007 | 02:24 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
Only time I use a clay bar was after I painted the Cougar, and after all the crap on the roads is gone. I wax before winter but there is so much salt and sand that gets all over the truck. After I do it the paint looks like glass afterwards.
I use alot of the lube before I take the clay to the paint, for what it costs it isnt a big deal since I only buy it once a year.
For the best results you do have to use a wax/grease remover to get the contaminants off the surface first.
I use alot of the lube before I take the clay to the paint, for what it costs it isnt a big deal since I only buy it once a year.
For the best results you do have to use a wax/grease remover to get the contaminants off the surface first.
Last edited by 89Lariat; 02-22-2007 at 02:36 PM.
#22
02-22-2007 | 04:42 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 0
From: HI
I finally took a clay bar to mine last weekend and I can definitely say that claying is not pointless. Next time you wash your truck simply lightly run your fingers along your truck, then clay it and run your fingers where you just clayed. The difference will be night and day and you will be amazed by the results.
It took me over 8 hours to wash, clay, polish, wax and detail my truck last weekend and over half of that time was simply claying it. It definietly was hard on my sholders, but was well worth the effort when I was complete.
It took me over 8 hours to wash, clay, polish, wax and detail my truck last weekend and over half of that time was simply claying it. It definietly was hard on my sholders, but was well worth the effort when I was complete.
#23
02-25-2007 | 02:18 PM
Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Pa
Originally Posted by RockPick
I think we need to get some 'good' information on the table here...
First, it's very difficult to imagine a wax 'build' that is going to be significant enough to 'encapsulate' a stuck on particle. While, I suppose, that it'll happen to a very very small degree, the odds on favorite is that the 'stuck on' particle will sit WELL above the surface of the wax.
Additionally, keep in mind that one may only build up so much wax on a painted surface before he/she is simply removing the layer beneath it by applying the new one -- it's called the Law of Diminishing Returns.
All of that said, let's think just a little bit more about this. Clay, by design, removes SURFACE contaminants that are sitting either slightly within the clear coat or on top of the clear coat. In short, if you have a small clinger of embedded iron -- rail dust for example -- the clay will either cleave the particle off or it will grasp it out of the paint (mind you, rail dust will typically 'melt into' the paint; to a certain extent).
Conceptually -- it's that simple. Clay removes BONDED SURFICIAL CONTAMINATION.
The reasons that you may be having problems with clay not removing your problems are:
1. The particles are deeply embedded and don't cleave/pull out/off well;
2. You're dealing with contamination that may not be easily removed by a 'mild' clay bar (might have to jump to something more harsh -- which brings inherent risks when using it - ie: marring, scratching, etc);
3. Improper use of the clay bar;
I think I should also go down this road.... what were you expecting the clay to do to your paint? If you were expecting it to shine it up and make a clear visual difference, you're probably let down because that's not what clay does. If you were expecting it to 'slick it up' and make it feel like glass as a preparatory step before polishing and/or waxing, then you're thinking along the correct lines... Further, the clay will aid in preparing a more optically perfect surface.
Dawn, in your case, may not be an awful idea but, I should caution you, it's NOT good for your paint because it is quite harsh versus a regular car shampoo. It will, indeed, strip your wax but, in addition, it'll strip the paint of a certain emollients that are essential for the clear to stay - well, clear (ever seen a cloudy clear coat?). Further, it'll strip necessary oils and other items (like plasticizers) from rubber and plastic parts causing them to turn-whitish and unattractive. In short, an occasional use may be okay but, do not make a habit of it.
I'm rambling a bit here but, there is some info within this thread that simply doesn't follow the 'paradigm' of most car care nuts/professional detailers/professional detailing products manufacturers.
=RP=
First, it's very difficult to imagine a wax 'build' that is going to be significant enough to 'encapsulate' a stuck on particle. While, I suppose, that it'll happen to a very very small degree, the odds on favorite is that the 'stuck on' particle will sit WELL above the surface of the wax.
Additionally, keep in mind that one may only build up so much wax on a painted surface before he/she is simply removing the layer beneath it by applying the new one -- it's called the Law of Diminishing Returns.
All of that said, let's think just a little bit more about this. Clay, by design, removes SURFACE contaminants that are sitting either slightly within the clear coat or on top of the clear coat. In short, if you have a small clinger of embedded iron -- rail dust for example -- the clay will either cleave the particle off or it will grasp it out of the paint (mind you, rail dust will typically 'melt into' the paint; to a certain extent).
Conceptually -- it's that simple. Clay removes BONDED SURFICIAL CONTAMINATION.
The reasons that you may be having problems with clay not removing your problems are:
1. The particles are deeply embedded and don't cleave/pull out/off well;
2. You're dealing with contamination that may not be easily removed by a 'mild' clay bar (might have to jump to something more harsh -- which brings inherent risks when using it - ie: marring, scratching, etc);
3. Improper use of the clay bar;
I think I should also go down this road.... what were you expecting the clay to do to your paint? If you were expecting it to shine it up and make a clear visual difference, you're probably let down because that's not what clay does. If you were expecting it to 'slick it up' and make it feel like glass as a preparatory step before polishing and/or waxing, then you're thinking along the correct lines... Further, the clay will aid in preparing a more optically perfect surface.
Dawn, in your case, may not be an awful idea but, I should caution you, it's NOT good for your paint because it is quite harsh versus a regular car shampoo. It will, indeed, strip your wax but, in addition, it'll strip the paint of a certain emollients that are essential for the clear to stay - well, clear (ever seen a cloudy clear coat?). Further, it'll strip necessary oils and other items (like plasticizers) from rubber and plastic parts causing them to turn-whitish and unattractive. In short, an occasional use may be okay but, do not make a habit of it.
I'm rambling a bit here but, there is some info within this thread that simply doesn't follow the 'paradigm' of most car care nuts/professional detailers/professional detailing products manufacturers.
=RP=
Looks like I came to the right spot
#24
02-26-2007 | 11:51 AM
Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX