Had a nice and sunny day yesterday, so i decided its time for a wash/detail. I washed with megs wash, top to bottom with 2 bucket method. pulled the truck in the garage and attempted my first claying adventure. I bought the megs claying kit with the quick detail and cleaner wax. well i started with the hood first, and soaked down with the quick detail and starting rubbing the clay back and forth like i have read to do so...nothing, clay still looks perfectly white as it came in the box as if it wasnt picking up anything. So i moved on to the driver's side lower door where i had just washed off about 1/2 baked on dirt and mud. Still, nothing! Am I doing this wrong? Using too much lube? Or do I just not need to clay? I wax regularly, about every 2 weeks. But i drive down dirt and muddy roads a lot so I figured the clay would pick up a lot of contaminates. Whats up with this? I thought it was supposed to be a noticable difference....

 

YOu can never use too much lube... Im sure your paint doesnt have anything in it or you would be picking it up with moderate pressure.

 

For real dude! If your waxing every 2 weeks, there's nothing on the paint BUT wax!

 

Clay will help to remove any contaminants bonded to the surface. If you don't have any bonded surface contaminants, then there's little reason to clay.

After thoroughly washing & drying your vehicle, lightly run your fingers over a small section of your vehicles paint. If it feels rough, then the clay will help to remove the roughness caused by bonded contaminants. You can magnify your sense of feel by placing your finger tips in a sandwich bag and running them across the paint. You can also put a piece of cellophane on your paint and run your fingers across this area, which will also serve to magnify your sense of touch.

After claying, your paint should feel sikly smooth. There are various grades of clays, some of which are much more agressive than others. The Meguiar's clays sold in retail outlets shoul be safe to use and its a good general purpose clay. You can however get a more agressive Meguiar's clay from your local PBE (Paint Body & Equipment) store, but these more agressive clays can mar the finish and require further polishing of the paint.

Definitely make sure to use enough lube because that's what the clay hydroplanes on as opposed to your paint. After all, clay is an abrasive (using microscopic abrasives) and you don't want it riding your 'dry' paint, unless there's a film of lube underneath it.

 

you really need to use some harsh soap like dawn to really strip out your old wax if you are going to clay the truck. Also you dont normally see just big noticable stains in the clay, just over time it will be more grey... Just keep working the clay around so you always have a fresh surface to work with.
-Patrick

 

Agreed, your wax is preventing the clay from scraping the stuff on the paint surface.

 

It's not how the clay looks after use, It's how the trucks finish feels after the clay.

 

Claying is something I usually do when I first get a vehicle. As others have said, you may be riding on the buildup of whatever products you have been using.

This I know works; I have done it on other cars. For the first time and never again, wash your vehicle with Dawn dishwashing liquid (standard formula). This will strip the wax off the paint. I do this only the first time I bring a vehicle home. Dawn is not mild and it does not have good lubricity. After you wash with Dawn, then clay the finish and you will see the difference in the surface. The paint will be smooth as glass.

Then, wax with the product of your choice and afterward, use a quality car-wash soap.

 

I think we need to get some 'good' information on the table here...

First, it's very difficult to imagine a wax 'build' that is going to be significant enough to 'encapsulate' a stuck on particle. While, I suppose, that it'll happen to a very very small degree, the odds on favorite is that the 'stuck on' particle will sit WELL above the surface of the wax.

Additionally, keep in mind that one may only build up so much wax on a painted surface before he/she is simply removing the layer beneath it by applying the new one -- it's called the Law of Diminishing Returns.

All of that said, let's think just a little bit more about this. Clay, by design, removes SURFACE contaminants that are sitting either slightly within the clear coat or on top of the clear coat. In short, if you have a small clinger of embedded iron -- rail dust for example -- the clay will either cleave the particle off or it will grasp it out of the paint (mind you, rail dust will typically 'melt into' the paint; to a certain extent).

Conceptually -- it's that simple. Clay removes BONDED SURFICIAL CONTAMINATION.

The reasons that you may be having problems with clay not removing your problems are:

1. The particles are deeply embedded and don't cleave/pull out/off well;
2. You're dealing with contamination that may not be easily removed by a 'mild' clay bar (might have to jump to something more harsh -- which brings inherent risks when using it - ie: marring, scratching, etc);
3. Improper use of the clay bar;

I think I should also go down this road.... what were you expecting the clay to do to your paint? If you were expecting it to shine it up and make a clear visual difference, you're probably let down because that's not what clay does. If you were expecting it to 'slick it up' and make it feel like glass as a preparatory step before polishing and/or waxing, then you're thinking along the correct lines... Further, the clay will aid in preparing a more optically perfect surface.

Dawn, in your case, may not be an awful idea but, I should caution you, it's NOT good for your paint because it is quite harsh versus a regular car shampoo. It will, indeed, strip your wax but, in addition, it'll strip the paint of a certain emollients that are essential for the clear to stay - well, clear (ever seen a cloudy clear coat?). Further, it'll strip necessary oils and other items (like plasticizers) from rubber and plastic parts causing them to turn-whitish and unattractive. In short, an occasional use may be okay but, do not make a habit of it.

I'm rambling a bit here but, there is some info within this thread that simply doesn't follow the 'paradigm' of most car care nuts/professional detailers/professional detailing products manufacturers.

=RP=

 

Do you smoke if you do get that plastic film from your cigs put two fingers in it and go over a spot in your truck, then you will feel whatever is on your paint and just go over a few other spot and clay it. Easiest way to check your progress.

 

Back to the original topic directly but in my experiences, claying has proven a necessity each time I wax. Yours biend an 07 I don't see the need as much. Mine is 7 plus years old and I worked around a few casting plants, both aluminum and iron. There is a lot of fallout, which clay takes a solid 95% of it away pretty effortlessly. I'm sold on the shid!

 

Believe it or not, some of the absolute worst vehicles that I've detailed - from a clay standpoint - were brand new with less than 1k miles.

Transportation and 'waiting' on transportation really takes it's toll... especially if the transport is railcar.

My 05' got clayed on day #2 in my possession -- I had to discard the claybar following completion!

 

some photographic support for RP's statement above

here is a pic of my brand new piece if clay after doing a 12" square area of the hood on my Screw .. with 12 miles on the ODO.



.

 

Wait a minute here. I thought claying stripped the wax off. I know full well I've read that mentioned on here before.

 

it pretty much does.