RockPick and others
#1
RockPick and others
As you know I have the type II acid rain etch on my hood. I'm going to use the PCDAP. Now which Megs pad(s) do I need to start the process?
Also, what do you think I need to use for a compound. I'm getting varying degrees of choices, suggestions on different forums, particularly the Megs forum. Personally, I do not think Scratch-X will be aggressive enough at the outset. However, I know you have the proper training, experience in dealing with such.
It all seems to boil down to how hard [or soft] the clear coat is. Obviously, I have know way of knowing what the heck Ford uses for clear coat from the factory. I could be way off base here, but knowing how bad the etch burn is, common sense would dictate that my clear coat is a softer paint.
My feelings are, not being totally apposed to using the proper procedures, and steps. What I am apposed to is wasting time and money on products that will not work, if you get my drift on having used detailing product accumulation that doesn't perform.
So far recommends are starting off with Scratch-X, then #80, then #83--yadda, yadda, yadda. I mean: why can't I just start off with #4? Number 4 says on the bottle it's for removing acid rain etching.
Thoughts?
Also, what do you think I need to use for a compound. I'm getting varying degrees of choices, suggestions on different forums, particularly the Megs forum. Personally, I do not think Scratch-X will be aggressive enough at the outset. However, I know you have the proper training, experience in dealing with such.
It all seems to boil down to how hard [or soft] the clear coat is. Obviously, I have know way of knowing what the heck Ford uses for clear coat from the factory. I could be way off base here, but knowing how bad the etch burn is, common sense would dictate that my clear coat is a softer paint.
My feelings are, not being totally apposed to using the proper procedures, and steps. What I am apposed to is wasting time and money on products that will not work, if you get my drift on having used detailing product accumulation that doesn't perform.
So far recommends are starting off with Scratch-X, then #80, then #83--yadda, yadda, yadda. I mean: why can't I just start off with #4? Number 4 says on the bottle it's for removing acid rain etching.
Thoughts?
#2
One compelling reason to start with what I'll call "the least destructive method / product / machine first is that you'll get into trouble at a much slower rate. Yes, you could start right out with an aggressive compound and a rotary buffer - and blow right through the clearcoat in a matter of seconds. (Of course I suppose that would fix your acid rain damage because you'd then be in for a new paint.) If you start with a less destructive method, you may still find out that the damage is so severe that you need to go for new paint, but you can at least sneak up in going through the clearcoat. Yes, it takes more time, but think of what you'll learn in the process!
#3
#4
OK RockPick. No hurry. I'm just getting prepared so when the time comes I have what I need to get the show on the road. I figure now is the time while the weather stinks. The Meg's forums is no help at all. Moderators just want to post links to different topics, products, that doesn't pertain to specifics. By the time I get done weeding through the (Megs) links on what I need to know, I've forgotten what the hell I asked. And some of that reading I liken the similarities to having a root canal.
2stroked, I appreciate the advice. I have no trouble with following the proper steps, procedures in reference to my trucks paint. It's the hood that's screwed. And if I did happen to burn clean through the clear coat? It's no big deal. I'm not really looking to diminish or go for a look of "you can just barely see the etch." I want it gone, period. If that means getting it re-painted then that's what is going to happen, save the dual action polisher.
Take no offense if I sound a tad bit surely, that's cause I am. No way a truck with less than 10k miles should be etching like that, and then have Ford tell me acid rain isn't covered under warranty? Sheezuz, what's it for then?
Anyway, thanks for the rant.
2stroked, I appreciate the advice. I have no trouble with following the proper steps, procedures in reference to my trucks paint. It's the hood that's screwed. And if I did happen to burn clean through the clear coat? It's no big deal. I'm not really looking to diminish or go for a look of "you can just barely see the etch." I want it gone, period. If that means getting it re-painted then that's what is going to happen, save the dual action polisher.
Take no offense if I sound a tad bit surely, that's cause I am. No way a truck with less than 10k miles should be etching like that, and then have Ford tell me acid rain isn't covered under warranty? Sheezuz, what's it for then?
Anyway, thanks for the rant.
#5
Ugh... I forgot. Having had a root canal -- I can't imagine that it's that bad.
While I don't mind to type it all back out, I'm basically going to regurgitate what was said in the FIRST response to you over at MOL...
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...d.php?t=18643&
MOL is a corporate-run site and, as such, they're going to toss in links to products in an effort to convince you to buy them. While I didn't necessarily agree with this procedure back when I moderated over there, I did follow along with it most of the time. Like you are describing, it's easy to get lost clicking arorund within the matrix.
My suggestion -- read the TEXT and don't worry about clicking around. That will, indeed, get you lost as posts are cross-linked EVERYWHERE.
Read back through the 'How to remove water spots' blurb. I just reread it myself... what it said was nearly identical to what I was going to type out.
While I don't mind to type it all back out, I'm basically going to regurgitate what was said in the FIRST response to you over at MOL...
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...d.php?t=18643&
MOL is a corporate-run site and, as such, they're going to toss in links to products in an effort to convince you to buy them. While I didn't necessarily agree with this procedure back when I moderated over there, I did follow along with it most of the time. Like you are describing, it's easy to get lost clicking arorund within the matrix.
My suggestion -- read the TEXT and don't worry about clicking around. That will, indeed, get you lost as posts are cross-linked EVERYWHERE.
Read back through the 'How to remove water spots' blurb. I just reread it myself... what it said was nearly identical to what I was going to type out.
#7
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#8
You mean to tell me there is an F-150.com? Oops. I guess I need to correct that. And here I thought that, was the cherry on the sunday.
Although I understand the moderator, Mike Phillips, is leaving MOL. At least he sent me an an e-mail stating so, while pushing his own detailing DVD. Yeah I'd say there was a little bit of conflict of interest there.
Although I understand the moderator, Mike Phillips, is leaving MOL. At least he sent me an an e-mail stating so, while pushing his own detailing DVD. Yeah I'd say there was a little bit of conflict of interest there.
#9
Originally Posted by rustyzipper
Although I understand the moderator, Mike Phillips, is leaving MOL. At least he sent me an an e-mail stating so, while pushing his own detailing DVD. Yeah I'd say there was a little bit of conflict of interest there.
I knew about his DVD -- he's had that thing in the works for YEARS (we drove from his house to Meg's HQ and talked about it most all of the way).
Yes, you're correct. It's VERY MUCH a conflict of interests.