So can you apply that Rejex stuff with the DA?

 

Got my stuff in today. My first detail will be a friends car tommorrow. Then my truck.

 

I've been practicing a little bit with my PC--a real novice at best. However in my estimation using a PC, and again, albeit in an attempt to getting used to using it. It does seem to me anything or any product that you would use by hand, can in fact, be used using, the PC. Sling or splattering would be a concern. Here, through most of my readings, most use an old bed sheet to cover things such as the windshield and whatever else you wouldn't want the product to get on to. Painters (blue) tape is also used to cover plastic and other moldings that could come in contact with the PC. Obviously a good practice considering how well polishes and waxes tend to stain plastic and vinyl--save the marring.

 

You don't have to worry too much about sling with the PC, unless you're using a low viscosity product. Even then, sling usually only happens when the pad lifts from the surface such as when you come to an edge and part of the pad is no longer on the paint. As long as the pad stays on the paint and you're not using too much product, you shouldn't see too much sling. With a rotary, its a different story and things can turn into sling city. Cleaing trim, textured vinyls or plastics, etc, with a tooth brush is no fun. If you're getting sling, then I'd highly recommend taking the time to tape things off. You can use things like tube socks to put over the wipe blades, larger ziplocks over the mirrors, towels across the windsheild, etc, to save some time.

 

My stuff came in today.

 

Wouldn't you know it! My wife took my digital camera to work with her. I did a pretty good detail on a friends car that hadn't been washed in a year! It would have made some good before and after shots. Oh well. Time to move onto my truck although the paint is in great shape I may polish and wax anyway!

 

Thanks for the tips qadsan. This practicing to remember verbatim is difficult, but it does help to post some of what I've learned.

I'm going to give it go today on my truck hood etching problem. I'm hoping all goes well.

Again, I thank you for the courage. You too RockPick.

 

Me too, eh? I feel so spessshull...


So, how'd it go?

 

Not sure if you are asking me or rustyzipper.

I detailed a friends 4Runner on Friday. Unfortunately, my wife had taken my digital camera and I couldn't get any pics. I can tell you that this was a detail for sure. This thing hadn't been washed in about 6 months at least. I buffed out some scratches and dings. My friend was very excited and now some of her friends want me to do a $50 wash and wax next time I have a chance. So that is good. After all that and cutting the yard I didn't have the energy to work on my truck. I did wash it, black out the wheelwells, and finish it off with some Last Touch. My truck gets over waxed most of the time, so I don't really have any swirl marks. I have two small scratches that I will buff out, one of which I have worked a little by hand with some scratch-X. Having a light colored truck helps with the swirls. I really need to work on the wifes car. It is a red camry with a ton of light swirling and scratches in addition to bug marks that need to be mitigated.

All things said, I think it turned out pretty well. I've got some future business to help pay for the rest of my detailing products and managed to pick up a small piece of experience with the G-100.

On a side note, Rockpick, what is the difference between Last Touch and QD/Final Inspection? I know that QD is not paintable and FI is supposed to be (may have that backwards). But where does LT fit into the picutre? I used some today when I finished off my QD and I liked it.

Oh yeah, score another for autodetailingsolutions.com, very helpful and all my stuff arrived on time as promised.

 

Different product lines...

FI is, indeed, body shop safe. By that, it means that it doesn't contain silicone in the least. Honestly, FI continues to be a HUGE stand-by choice for a lot of the detailers out there. It is, indeed, a fantastic product. FI is part of the Mirror Glaze line (Pro).

LT isn't body shop safe (contains silicone). LT is part of the D-Line (Detailers).

LT will typically pop a bit more but has more of a tendency to streak. Both are decent clay lubes.

They're just different product lines... LT is only available in gallon or 5 gallon (actually, they may offer it in a 55-gallon if you're so inclined). FI is 16 or gallon.

That help? I guess, all in all, it's a personal preference between the products... they're both manufactured to achieve similar goals... that being a 'detailer' product to use for light dust, light overspray, and light smudging.

-RP-

 

I finally took the dive on the G100, Rick should have RP on the payroll I'll be practicing on the daily beater to start, an old but reliable 95 Accord. It needs some attention for type 2 acid rain etching (going to try rusty's approach with ScratchX, but I fear that won't be enough). The car shines great from a distance but the etching is horrendous up close. My truck is in great shape, just needs polished and waxed. The gf's truck needs a good 12 hr appointment, she WILL be learning

Been spending a lot of time just reading along in here and over at MOL and I can say RP you are a HUGE resource when it comes to learning more and more about how to keep all our toys looking tip top. And also thanks to everyone else for sharing tips n tricks. I'm off to clean some space in the garage for all the new detailing stuff...

 

Cool. Be sure to post some pics. The job on my truck should be short and sweet, my wifes car will be where the learnin' takes place! And I will have pics!

 

You're telling me!

I do need to put in an order in preparation for the detailing 'season'. I'm already booking up over the next couple of weeks and late in April.... I need stuff!

Maybe he'll remember me when I order... I hope.