Got half the hood done
#16
Thanks Quadsan and others for your informative posts.
Back in the 80's I painted a few Mustangs and buffed them out using Megs products. I had one of the cheaper B&D buffers but, as stated, it didn't work well. I ended up using a bonnet on a 6" angle grinder but had to be careful on edges.
Now that I have become older and "wiser", I believe I'll leave this labor intensive work to the professional.
Back in the 80's I painted a few Mustangs and buffed them out using Megs products. I had one of the cheaper B&D buffers but, as stated, it didn't work well. I ended up using a bonnet on a 6" angle grinder but had to be careful on edges.
Now that I have become older and "wiser", I believe I'll leave this labor intensive work to the professional.
#17
Thanks rusty, you're becoming a RP mini me The etching I have is on a 12 year old car that doesn't need to be perfect, but I'd still like to clean it up. This car will serve as my PC learning ground/test subject before turning the PC loose on both the trucks. I may skip the #4 for now, I can still see the etching down in there, but it's a lot less visible even at two feet away you have to catch it in the right light to see it. The big test will be the hood and roof.
#18
>>>Thanks rusty, you're becoming a RP mini me.<<<
You're welcome buddy, anytime. My name even associated with RP is very humbling, thanks.
That said, I'm reasonably sure RP has forgotten more about detailing as I digress.
>>> I may skip the #4 for now, I can still see the etching down in there, but it's a lot less visible even at two feet away you have to catch it in the right light to see it. The big test will be the hood and roof.<<<
This is the point where I was after using the #83. I, however, have black paint. While you couldn't see the etch at all from a distance, it was still there, yes, in different light angles. As a true blue, overachiever [slash] perfectionist, I couldn't stand for that. I know it's still there--reputation to protect, if you will. Anyway, it's gone now, so I'm able to live with myself.
But really, the #4 worked very well based on my experience using it. It also seemed to go quite a bit further before breaking down VS. the #83. The #4 would be the only way to go IMO if you're dealing with a full panel etch such as the hood, trunk or roof and using a PC, putting emphasis on using only a PC. Strictly looking at from a novice standpoint? I see no reason to go any further up the abrasion scale nor the need to use a high speed rotary buffer. Not given the results I've gotten anyway. I just can't say or give enough accolades to how well the PC works. It's simply an amazing little machine.
You're welcome buddy, anytime. My name even associated with RP is very humbling, thanks.
That said, I'm reasonably sure RP has forgotten more about detailing as I digress.
>>> I may skip the #4 for now, I can still see the etching down in there, but it's a lot less visible even at two feet away you have to catch it in the right light to see it. The big test will be the hood and roof.<<<
This is the point where I was after using the #83. I, however, have black paint. While you couldn't see the etch at all from a distance, it was still there, yes, in different light angles. As a true blue, overachiever [slash] perfectionist, I couldn't stand for that. I know it's still there--reputation to protect, if you will. Anyway, it's gone now, so I'm able to live with myself.
But really, the #4 worked very well based on my experience using it. It also seemed to go quite a bit further before breaking down VS. the #83. The #4 would be the only way to go IMO if you're dealing with a full panel etch such as the hood, trunk or roof and using a PC, putting emphasis on using only a PC. Strictly looking at from a novice standpoint? I see no reason to go any further up the abrasion scale nor the need to use a high speed rotary buffer. Not given the results I've gotten anyway. I just can't say or give enough accolades to how well the PC works. It's simply an amazing little machine.