Full Detail - Silver 2000 Mustang LS - 56k Beware
#16
#17
Originally Posted by RockPick
So, after getting a fairly decent grip on what was sitting in front of me, I assembled my chemical array:
I'm not much of a detailing fanatic but i just bought a selection of meguiar's product to clean my motorcycle. i wash it after every ride.
I have the shampoo, NTX paste wax, Quick detailer, plastX and bug and tar remover and a bunch of micro fiber cloths. these are helping to keep the bike looking clean and new. i do need a metal polish for the aluminum on the bike but most of it is coated and i don't want to cause more problems.
Maybe I'll even use some products on the truck........
..... i doubt it though.
#18
Not a problem with the well deserved kudos. I hear ya on the shaking part too. I don't think I could detail for a living. Not after that Duragloss truck experience. I'll be stiff and sore for awhile. Damn trucks ya have to get on a ladder. Plus I have that tonnue cover to contend with--ladder. sheesh.
That's OK pertaining to the billing schedule. Let me ask a more politically correct question. Does a detail shop owner operator charge by the hour or by the job, using a list of choices? I'm a little confused considering the materials. I know time is money, but I'm far from that end.
That's OK pertaining to the billing schedule. Let me ask a more politically correct question. Does a detail shop owner operator charge by the hour or by the job, using a list of choices? I'm a little confused considering the materials. I know time is money, but I'm far from that end.
#19
thanks for the general price break down RP. Ill probably tell him i want atleast XX and then if you are 100% satisfied then give me a "tip" ontop of that. And as of right now your pricing would be more then i would expect even after a tip... But maybe if i get into this more, and start buying more expensive products, tools (PC) etc... then i might could see justifying asking more.
On his truck i would do:
Deep wash
Quick Clay
Wash again
Dry
Wax
Polish
But yeah i dunno like i said i know he will be happy with the results, b.c i know i am with my work on my silver. And hes got a Navy Blue so the results will be more dramatic
On his truck i would do:
Deep wash
Quick Clay
Wash again
Dry
Wax
Polish
But yeah i dunno like i said i know he will be happy with the results, b.c i know i am with my work on my silver. And hes got a Navy Blue so the results will be more dramatic
#21
I have a question RP, how do you get out really fine scratches? I just got my truck back from paint, gotta love little brothers. Anyways, he started with 2000 grit, used rubbing compound on the wool pad, then foam galze on the the foam pad, then a good strong hand buff with show galze, followed by NXT paste. It looks great in the shade, but in the sun the truck is covered with these superfine swirl marks, they're so fine looking it's almost like talcom powder caused them, sorry I can't post any pics my digital camera can't pick them up. It's been two weeks since it's last wash, and was goning to try and do it tues. any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
BTW you are a GOD!!!
I cannot believe you got that mustang that good, and for only $150. A detail that intense, and with results that good I would've paid at least $200. You are an asset to this website, i hope you never leave, I think I may have to get one of those full blown Meguiars sets, I didn't really believe how well the claybar works till I saw it in person on my friends 94 black mustang. Which one do you I should get for my beige truck?
BTW you are a GOD!!!
I cannot believe you got that mustang that good, and for only $150. A detail that intense, and with results that good I would've paid at least $200. You are an asset to this website, i hope you never leave, I think I may have to get one of those full blown Meguiars sets, I didn't really believe how well the claybar works till I saw it in person on my friends 94 black mustang. Which one do you I should get for my beige truck?
#24
Originally Posted by lees99f150
i do need a metal polish for the aluminum on...
A hint on metal polish... give the Meguiar's NXT Metal Polysh (yes, that's how it's spelled) a whirl. I'd tried it before and really wasn't blown away but, the more I've tinkered with it, the more I like it.
It's a distant second to Heavy Metal Polish (www.heavymetalpolish.com) but, it's not too darn bad for the price.
#25
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
thanks for the general price break down RP. Ill probably tell him i want atleast XX and then if you are 100% satisfied then give me a "tip" ontop of that. And as of right now your pricing would be more then i would expect even after a tip... But maybe if i get into this more, and start buying more expensive products, tools (PC) etc... then i might could see justifying asking more.
#26
Originally Posted by rustyzipper
Does a detail shop owner operator charge by the hour or by the job, using a list of choices? I'm a little confused considering the materials. I know time is money, but I'm far from that end.
Many charge by the vehicle (based on size (small car, car, truck, SUV, Van, etc). Some charge a shop hourly rate... at least that's what I see from collegues that I communicate with regularly.
I picked up the 'not to exceed' thought from a buddy over on MOL that I email with frequently. So far, it's worked out well as a payment arrangement for some of those vehicles that there are some unknowns. The couple of vehicles where I've utilized that approach turned out very well and neither hit the NTE number... that, of course, keeps the owner happy.
-RP-
#27
Originally Posted by flareside4life
I have a question RP, how do you get out really fine scratches?
Before I say this, let me note that I'm not knocking your brother... not in the least but, it sounds like he may not have used the correct products/pads/or techniques.
Again, unseen, a product like #80 on a FINISHING pad might cut it out. It sounds like it'll only need a VERY light cut to knock it down. What you're probably seeing is most likely a result of the wool pad. Wool is a great cutting pad -- the most aggressive in fact -- but, it will require some skill to remove the problems that wool induces.
I cannot believe you got that mustang that good, and for only $150. A detail that intense, and with results that good I would've paid at least $200. You are an asset to this website, i hope you never leave, I think I may have to get one of those full blown Meguiars sets, I didn't really believe how well the claybar works till I saw it in person on my friends 94 black mustang. Which one do you I should get for my beige truck?
As for the kits, check with www.autodetailingsolutions.com . I'd go with kit #2 and substitue the #4 for #80 (Rick will do this for you - tell him RP sent you). Also, pick up an extra polishing and finishing pad. You should be fairly well set with that kit...
Pile in a few NICE microfiber towels (no el-cheapos!) and you'll have a nice array of products. Be aware, detailing is an addiction -- you'll end up spending more $! LOL!
-RP-
#28
#29
Originally Posted by EnglishAdam
Excellent job as always RP. Now for my question.
What's the deal with the body solvent after the clay?
Is this just instead of washing again?
What's the deal with the body solvent after the clay?
Is this just instead of washing again?
I tried to snare the tar with the clay at the end (the bar was at the end of it's life after working on this vehicle -- it started as a NEW bar). The tar was hard and speckled... I thought I could get it with the clay.
Turns out, I couldn't.
Hence, the solvent following the clay. Should've tried it the other way but, that's hindsight.