Water spot solution on paint and windows

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  #1  
Old 05-10-2007 | 07:17 PM
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From: Metter, GA
Water spot solution on paint and windows

I searched around here and have seen that no one has tried Whink's rust remover to get rid of water spots. I've heard a couple people around here that have tried it and i finaly tried it myself and it worked wonders!

my method:
get a bottle of whink's rust remover, a sponge and GLOVES!!! if you don't use gloves it will eat your fingernails.

wash and dry your vehicle
PUT ON YOUR GLOVES
pour the whink's solution onto the sponge
gently rub over the spots until you can tell they are gone
wash your vehicle once again and dry
wax with your favorite wax (you need to wax because the whink's will remove any other wax or polish on it.)

Use at your own risk, but i did my 2004 f150 and had no problems at all. it had severe water spots.
 
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Old 05-10-2007 | 10:02 PM
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I wouldn't use that on my paint. If it's corrosive enough to eat through your fingernails, what do you think it's doing to the clearcoat? The stuff probably works by eating away at the clearcoat until it's down to the level of the etching (water spot). If it works for you, then great...but I wouldn't be willing to risk it on my paint.
 
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Old 05-11-2007 | 01:58 PM
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Most rust removers use hydrofluoric acid, it's very nasty stuff that eats calcium. It'll also eat your bones as well as fingernails. I used to use it on carpets and it can be extremely powerful stuff depending on the concentration. Be very careful with it. Personally I wouldn't use it in this manner.
 
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Old 05-11-2007 | 02:41 PM
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"Rust remover"? ...na, I don't think so...
 

Last edited by OgRedd; 05-11-2007 at 02:44 PM.
  #5  
Old 05-11-2007 | 02:42 PM
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that stuff with eat your clear coat so fast that its not funny you probley removed alot of you clear while doing that, either way id like to see a pic to see what all it did to your paint.... but i would just use a pc instead of that.
 
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Old 05-11-2007 | 06:20 PM
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local detailers use it. it did not dull or discolor the clear. the truck looks in showroom condition. its not like i let it soak up in the clear, it was just a suggestion, made a hell of a difference with my truck.
 
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Old 05-11-2007 | 06:29 PM
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here are a couple of pics


 
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Old 05-11-2007 | 07:43 PM
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oOoOo SOO SHINYYY
 
  #9  
Old 05-11-2007 | 08:42 PM
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damn it looks pretty good, i may have to try this on my old ranger, just to see how well it works
 
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Old 05-11-2007 | 09:38 PM
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also, if you try it apply out of direct sunlight and don't let it dry on your paint
 
  #11  
Old 05-12-2007 | 01:34 AM
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I could see how it would work to get rid of waterspots, but it would probably be best to use it as a one-time deal. A couple years ago when I was in between jobs, I worked for a friend of mine that does fleet washing. Like LRG said above, our main ingredient in the "soap" we used was hydroflouric acid. That stuff put me in the hospital with chemical burns all up and down my arms. I made sure to cover my entire body from head to toe after that, even in the heat of summer.

Anyway, back to the topic at hand. When I first started the job, a couple of our clients had a few brand new trucks that after driving across the country a few times, were filthy. After washing them with the stuff we used, they looked amazing! However, after a few months of washing, the clearcoat was gone and there were spots where the paint was starting to be eaten away. The trucks looked terrible. How my friend stays in business using this stuff I'll never know.

All I'm saying is that if it worked for you this time, great...but I would go out of my way from now on to make sure that water spots don't form so that you don't have to do this again. Do it enough and before long, you'll be staring at the nice dull finish of bare paint with no clear coat on it.
 
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Old 05-12-2007 | 09:59 AM
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oh, i wouldn't reccommend using this all the time. it was a one time deal for me. When i bought the truck, it was infested with terrible waterspots and have been wanting to get rid of them. now its clean and waxed and i wash my truck at least once a week, and dry so spots SHOULDN'T be a problem. i would however still use it on the glass whenever
 
  #13  
Old 05-12-2007 | 07:15 PM
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If you use it on the glass DO NOT!!!! let it dry on there. You have to rinse it off almost immediately after you put it on. We tried our best not to even get any on the windows at all. When I first started doing that stuff, I had a couple windsheilds come out of my pay. A windshield for a semi is not cheap!!

Just be careful.
 
  #14  
Old 05-13-2007 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LRG
Most rust removers use hydrofluoric acid, it's very nasty stuff that eats calcium. It'll also eat your bones as well as fingernails. I used to use it on carpets and it can be extremely powerful stuff depending on the concentration. Be very careful with it. Personally I wouldn't use it in this manner.
Same chemical in Bleache White... At .017 % I believe. A 1% will eat through your arm. Anybody got hold of some 100% HF?
 
  #15  
Old 05-13-2007 | 07:59 PM
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hey cannonball, do live in statesboro or happen to go to ga southern?
 



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