Rock chip repairs
#1
Rock chip repairs
I know someone did a write-up on how to do this, but for the life of me i can not find it. Had something to do with using a toothpick to allow the paint to fill in the chip, then sand using a pencil with sandpaper attached to the eraser, etc., etc. Can someone find the link and repost it or give me the details again. Looking for info on the type of sandpaper to use, and what polish to use afterwards, etc.
thanks!
thanks!
#2
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...41&postcount=8
That's exactly the procedure that I use... Also, Mother's has a Langka kit out that isn't too shabby (and less expensive than the full Lanka kit)
That's exactly the procedure that I use... Also, Mother's has a Langka kit out that isn't too shabby (and less expensive than the full Lanka kit)
#3
http://www.shop.com/op/sprod-0-p2390...int+chip-nover
This stuff works pretty well but, I've always found myself having to 2000-grit sand at the end to get a uniform look...
This stuff works pretty well but, I've always found myself having to 2000-grit sand at the end to get a uniform look...
#4
Originally Posted by RockPick
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...41&postcount=8
That's exactly the procedure that I use... Also, Mother's has a Langka kit out that isn't too shabby (and less expensive than the full Lanka kit)
That's exactly the procedure that I use... Also, Mother's has a Langka kit out that isn't too shabby (and less expensive than the full Lanka kit)
I've done the toothpick part, now all I need to do is wait the 24hrs and sand.
#5
Question(s);
1. One of the chips was a bit deep and I just noticed the paint “sunk” into the chip. Do I fill this sunken area with more paint first, or do I sand first, then re-apply more paint to fill it in?
2. How much sanding do I do? Am I trying to get the bumps flush with the rest of the cars paint or just trying to smooth the bump down?
3. Is a dab of clear coat needed or am I safe to not worry about it?
1. One of the chips was a bit deep and I just noticed the paint “sunk” into the chip. Do I fill this sunken area with more paint first, or do I sand first, then re-apply more paint to fill it in?
2. How much sanding do I do? Am I trying to get the bumps flush with the rest of the cars paint or just trying to smooth the bump down?
3. Is a dab of clear coat needed or am I safe to not worry about it?
#6
Originally Posted by 01SILVERGT
Question(s);
1. One of the chips was a bit deep and I just noticed the paint “sunk” into the chip. Do I fill this sunken area with more paint first, or do I sand first, then re-apply more paint to fill it in?
1. One of the chips was a bit deep and I just noticed the paint “sunk” into the chip. Do I fill this sunken area with more paint first, or do I sand first, then re-apply more paint to fill it in?
2. How much sanding do I do? Am I trying to get the bumps flush with the rest of the cars paint or just trying to smooth the bump down?
3. Is a dab of clear coat needed or am I safe to not worry about it?
I wouldn't worry about it. At a spot that small, having single stage paint is perfectly acceptable -- especially if you can get it smooth
#7
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#8
Alright RP, few more Q’s.
Been reading more about this today and have a question on the sanding part. Do I sand “back and forth” or in a circular motion? I read one article that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser tip and sand back and forth in a variable pattern (0deg, then 45deg, then 90deg), but read another that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser then sand by “rolling” the pencil between your fingers over the spot, thus a circular motion.
What polish should I get? Will scratch X be enough or should I get a polish compound and if so what? (It will need to be commercially available at Wally World or an Auto parts store).
Been reading more about this today and have a question on the sanding part. Do I sand “back and forth” or in a circular motion? I read one article that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser tip and sand back and forth in a variable pattern (0deg, then 45deg, then 90deg), but read another that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser then sand by “rolling” the pencil between your fingers over the spot, thus a circular motion.
What polish should I get? Will scratch X be enough or should I get a polish compound and if so what? (It will need to be commercially available at Wally World or an Auto parts store).
#9
Originally Posted by 01SILVERGT
Alright RP, few more Q’s.
Been reading more about this today and have a question on the sanding part. Do I sand “back and forth” or in a circular motion? I read one article that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser tip and sand back and forth in a variable pattern (0deg, then 45deg, then 90deg), but read another that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser then sand by “rolling” the pencil between your fingers over the spot, thus a circular motion.
What polish should I get? Will scratch X be enough or should I get a polish compound and if so what? (It will need to be commercially available at Wally World or an Auto parts store).
Been reading more about this today and have a question on the sanding part. Do I sand “back and forth” or in a circular motion? I read one article that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser tip and sand back and forth in a variable pattern (0deg, then 45deg, then 90deg), but read another that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser then sand by “rolling” the pencil between your fingers over the spot, thus a circular motion.
What polish should I get? Will scratch X be enough or should I get a polish compound and if so what? (It will need to be commercially available at Wally World or an Auto parts store).
#10
Originally Posted by ridge
i got a question what if you have to light long scratches what would be the best way to touch them up?? and is it safe to add a clear coat over touch up paint or is that not a good idea?
I'd let a body shop look at that... I think that just about anything that you put on it will make it stick out like a sore thumb.
-RP-
#11
Originally Posted by 01SILVERGT
Alright RP, few more Q’s.
Been reading more about this today and have a question on the sanding part. Do I sand “back and forth” or in a circular motion? I read one article that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser tip and sand back and forth in a variable pattern (0deg, then 45deg, then 90deg), but read another that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser then sand by “rolling” the pencil between your fingers over the spot, thus a circular motion.
Been reading more about this today and have a question on the sanding part. Do I sand “back and forth” or in a circular motion? I read one article that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser tip and sand back and forth in a variable pattern (0deg, then 45deg, then 90deg), but read another that says to attach the sandpaper to the eraser then sand by “rolling” the pencil between your fingers over the spot, thus a circular motion.
What polish should I get? Will scratch X be enough or should I get a polish compound and if so what? (It will need to be commercially available at Wally World or an Auto parts store).
#12
#13
Originally Posted by RockPick
http://www.shop.com/op/sprod-0-p2390...int+chip-nover
This stuff works pretty well but, I've always found myself having to 2000-grit sand at the end to get a uniform look...
This stuff works pretty well but, I've always found myself having to 2000-grit sand at the end to get a uniform look...
#14
www.langka.com
It's a variation of their 'big' kit for chip fixes. I'm not sure that Mother's markets it any longer but, I do own a bottle and can attest to the fact that it works fairly well.
It's a variation of their 'big' kit for chip fixes. I'm not sure that Mother's markets it any longer but, I do own a bottle and can attest to the fact that it works fairly well.