Need Help On The Paint Detailing...
#16
05-15-2007, 04:06 PM
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#17
05-15-2007, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RockPick
Holy great big pictures, batman!
Do you want the simple answer or the three-post, drawn out detailing manual 101?
If it's the latter, you're going to have to summond information from more sources than 'us'.
Do you want the simple answer or the three-post, drawn out detailing manual 101?
If it's the latter, you're going to have to summond information from more sources than 'us'.
#18
05-15-2007, 11:25 PM
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This is a copy of an email I sent to another member here (I'm way too lazy to type it out again). Use only what applies to you, and ignore the rest. Have fun.
First off, I applaud your desire to not screw up your truck... Secondly, here's a breakdown of what I do. I'm going to assume you know nothing about detailing so that nothing is overlooked (Hope this doesn't offend you). Pick and choose what you do based on a full detail:
Start by washing with the 2 bucket method. If the truck is heavily soiled in tar or bugs, you may consider washing once with Dawn and once with a good car wash such as Gold Class (from Megs) For the 2 bucket method: fill one bucket up with water and another with the wash solution. Make sure to get dilution ratios right, as you can really screw up paint depending on how you mix it. Select a good wash mitt. My favorite are genuine lambs wool mitts (Cotton Chenille works well, too). Pre rinse truck. Dip mitt into soapy water and then start washing...front to back, top to bottom. Every panel or half panel, you should clean the mitt in the water bucket then re-dip in soapy water to continue. Another good idea is to get grit guards to prevent dirt from getting in the mitt and causing micromarring/swirling. As the water gets dingy, refill. I do this once or twice in a usual wash.
RIMS: I use a simple green solution of 1:1 with water. Alternately, you can use full strength or any good rim cleaner. Another favorite of mine is the Dupont one with Teflon. Select the foaming type spray, and apply. I wait 30 seconds-1 minute then I scrub with a
DEDICATED Microfiber or chenille sponge. Rinse thoroughly.
TIRES: I clean every time with Westleys Bleache White.(Use even if you don't have white lettering. It keeps the tire looking rich and black rather than reddish or brown) Scrub with a nylon bristled tire brush. DO NOT let this get on your rims or paint. It pits rims and severely damages paint. If working in wind or in a closed space, wear a respirator and goggles. It's a very powerful chemical, and is quite toxic. Take a whiff, and you'll see.
DRYING: Take off the nozzle from the hose, and wet the entire truck down. This will cause sheeting, eliminating most of the water. After that, you may try a leaf blower or compressed air. If not, you'll need at least 2 good drying towels. My favorite for these are Meg's Waffle Weave Microfiber Water Magnets. Well worth the money. You'll want to blot to further decrease the chances of swirling.
PREP WORK: You'll want to tape off all plastics at this time. Also, go ahead and apply tire dressing so it has time to adsorb into the rubber of the tire.
PAINT CLEANER: Either by hand or by DA or by rotary, use your paint cleaner (ie: meg's step 1 of the 3 step). Remove with Microfiber (I'll abbreviate MF) towels. As they start to gunk up, get another one out. You should need about 3 for this step.
CLAYING: Clay kits are easily bought at autozone and are well worth the $$$. (~$20) Spray the supplied Quick detailing spray (or your own) liberally onto the surface of the truck. Then, knead the claybar briefly, warming it up in your palms, and begin rubbing it across the paint. It may sound like sandpaper, but it's supposed to. Rather than using a lot of pressure, many light passes are much safer. As with washing,it's best to go top to bottom, front to back. As you complete each panel or as the surface touching the paint begins to look dingy, knead the clay to a fresh surface. ***NOTE***: If at any point, you drop an applicator pad or towel or sponge, get a new one out. If at any point you drop a claybar, trash it. For this reason, I reccommend that you cut it in 1/2 and put the other half into a ziploc bag for safekeeping. SCRATCH REMOVAL: Go get a tube of Scratch-X (Meg's). Follow instructions on tube.
COMPOUNDING: I do this by D/A, but it can be done manually. BY D/A: Use a cutting pad or a wool bonnet. Get your favorite compound (for heavy swirs, I recommend #83. For light/medium swirls, I recommend either #80 or step 1 of the 3 step) and have at it. You shouldn't use too much pressure. Work product into paint until almost dry. Remove with a MF towel. Continue to rest of paint once you have a swirl free finish. For both this and scratch removal, don't be afraid to do several applications. By hand: get a MF applicator pad and do the same. Have Tylenol ready for the end of the day. -------CONTINUED------------
First off, I applaud your desire to not screw up your truck... Secondly, here's a breakdown of what I do. I'm going to assume you know nothing about detailing so that nothing is overlooked (Hope this doesn't offend you). Pick and choose what you do based on a full detail:
Start by washing with the 2 bucket method. If the truck is heavily soiled in tar or bugs, you may consider washing once with Dawn and once with a good car wash such as Gold Class (from Megs) For the 2 bucket method: fill one bucket up with water and another with the wash solution. Make sure to get dilution ratios right, as you can really screw up paint depending on how you mix it. Select a good wash mitt. My favorite are genuine lambs wool mitts (Cotton Chenille works well, too). Pre rinse truck. Dip mitt into soapy water and then start washing...front to back, top to bottom. Every panel or half panel, you should clean the mitt in the water bucket then re-dip in soapy water to continue. Another good idea is to get grit guards to prevent dirt from getting in the mitt and causing micromarring/swirling. As the water gets dingy, refill. I do this once or twice in a usual wash.
RIMS: I use a simple green solution of 1:1 with water. Alternately, you can use full strength or any good rim cleaner. Another favorite of mine is the Dupont one with Teflon. Select the foaming type spray, and apply. I wait 30 seconds-1 minute then I scrub with a
DEDICATED Microfiber or chenille sponge. Rinse thoroughly.
TIRES: I clean every time with Westleys Bleache White.(Use even if you don't have white lettering. It keeps the tire looking rich and black rather than reddish or brown) Scrub with a nylon bristled tire brush. DO NOT let this get on your rims or paint. It pits rims and severely damages paint. If working in wind or in a closed space, wear a respirator and goggles. It's a very powerful chemical, and is quite toxic. Take a whiff, and you'll see.
DRYING: Take off the nozzle from the hose, and wet the entire truck down. This will cause sheeting, eliminating most of the water. After that, you may try a leaf blower or compressed air. If not, you'll need at least 2 good drying towels. My favorite for these are Meg's Waffle Weave Microfiber Water Magnets. Well worth the money. You'll want to blot to further decrease the chances of swirling.
PREP WORK: You'll want to tape off all plastics at this time. Also, go ahead and apply tire dressing so it has time to adsorb into the rubber of the tire.
PAINT CLEANER: Either by hand or by DA or by rotary, use your paint cleaner (ie: meg's step 1 of the 3 step). Remove with Microfiber (I'll abbreviate MF) towels. As they start to gunk up, get another one out. You should need about 3 for this step.
CLAYING: Clay kits are easily bought at autozone and are well worth the $$$. (~$20) Spray the supplied Quick detailing spray (or your own) liberally onto the surface of the truck. Then, knead the claybar briefly, warming it up in your palms, and begin rubbing it across the paint. It may sound like sandpaper, but it's supposed to. Rather than using a lot of pressure, many light passes are much safer. As with washing,it's best to go top to bottom, front to back. As you complete each panel or as the surface touching the paint begins to look dingy, knead the clay to a fresh surface. ***NOTE***: If at any point, you drop an applicator pad or towel or sponge, get a new one out. If at any point you drop a claybar, trash it. For this reason, I reccommend that you cut it in 1/2 and put the other half into a ziploc bag for safekeeping. SCRATCH REMOVAL: Go get a tube of Scratch-X (Meg's). Follow instructions on tube.
COMPOUNDING: I do this by D/A, but it can be done manually. BY D/A: Use a cutting pad or a wool bonnet. Get your favorite compound (for heavy swirs, I recommend #83. For light/medium swirls, I recommend either #80 or step 1 of the 3 step) and have at it. You shouldn't use too much pressure. Work product into paint until almost dry. Remove with a MF towel. Continue to rest of paint once you have a swirl free finish. For both this and scratch removal, don't be afraid to do several applications. By hand: get a MF applicator pad and do the same. Have Tylenol ready for the end of the day. -------CONTINUED------------
#19
05-15-2007, 11:29 PM
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POLISHING: If you have a perfectly swirl free finish, apply a pure polish (eg: #7) with a foam applicator pad or a microfiber applicator pad. If there is VERY light swirls/spider webbing, use a filler polish (ie: #9)--both polishes I listed are from Meg's, easily bought at Pep Boys. Follow instructions on bottle. Remove with MF towel(s).
WAXING: same as polishing. I use NXT or #21, but Synwax (from Mothers) works well, too. After you have applied you synthetic wax (I do 2 coats. For building layers, wait 12 hours between coats. For ensuring complete coverage, do them back to back), use a Carnauba. Before applying a Carnauba, you HAVE to wait 12 hours. Before you wax, make sure you get a clean MF towel and a good QD spray to wipe down the truck to eliminate dust to prevent swirling. Good carnaubas to follow the synthetics are: #16 (if you can find it), #26, California Gold, Gold Class (all these in order of preference), etc...
INTERIOR: Vacuum, use spot cleaner as necessary, etc. I recommend Scotch Guard for all fabrics. Follow instructions on all chemicals used. (If you Scotch Guard, it'll smell HORRIBLE for a few hours. Just leave your windows cracked all day, and it'll go away by itself. Leather: There are great products out there. I have a 1 step leather cleaner and conditioner, however, it's for my Dad's truck, so it's not the best. RockPick and those with leather interiors like Lexol I believe, as well as some others, but you'd have to ask them.
GLASS: I recommend Stoners Invisible Glass. If there are stubborn water spots or micro scratches, try a paste of Bar keepers friend, use Vinegar, or other glass restorer. on any of the, it is IMPERATIVE that absolutely NONE of it touches the paint. I recommend doing glass before you compound.
WHEEL WELLS: Spray the rubber with a cheap tire spray. (On the back, make sure you clean them really well. I use a nylon brush and Simple green to keep these clean.)
RIMS/TIRES, CONT.: Wipe down the tires gently with a shop rag to remove excess tire shine from slinging off. (Tire shine products I like, in order, are: Hyper Shine, Endurance Gloss, Hot Shine Gel.)
RIMS---Use a QD or a wheel QD (new for 2007 with meg's--wheel QD...works GREAT) and a MF towel to clean/shine. Before you drive, make sure there is no water trapped in the wheel...
FINAL TOUCHES: Use a good plastics cleaner (ie: 303 aerospace protectant, Natural Shine from Megs) to clean all plastics. Use the Natural Shine for all weather strippings and dash. Polish all metals, buff up all chrome, etc. It is this stage where you set your vehicle apart from the rest.
GOOD THINGS TO TRY:
-Use Plast-X on headlights, tail lights, and corner lights. It removes oxidation and discoloring and puts a polymer protectant on them.
-Detail the engine bay: Use an all purpose cleaner and the 2 bucket method with a rag or 2 and clean each part accessible. This is NOT a place to spray water. Some do it, but you should consider yourself lucky if you can spray water into your engine bay and not get misfires.
-Don't forget...all paint work above also applies to the roof of the cab.
-This is the time for all finishing touches to the truck. (These change from person to person. Some like to use 4 star ultimate gloss enhancer for that extra 'pop', etc...) Find what you can do to make your truck stand out.
PROJECTS TO MAKE YOUR TRUCK STAND OUT:
-Get a crawler and clean the undercarriage like 04RedLariat. Granted, he uses a steam genie, but you can achieve good results by hand with an all purpose cleaner. Don't forget to add some nice looking paint under there...
-Paint your brake Calipers. Follow all instructions. Gives your brakes a really 'clean' look, especially if you just paint the black. (If you have sweet rims and a really nice truck, yo might opt for a more visible color, but my rims are stock, and black offered me a clean look I didn't have before.)
-Buff out your toolbox/grilleguard (as applicable)
-etc, etc, etc....The list could go on. But rather than only doing what I've listed, do something we haven't (in addition to anything we have...but be creative) Have fun. I hope this wasn't too long, but I wanted to make sure you didn't screw up your truck. Don't forget to take pics before and after.
WAXING: same as polishing. I use NXT or #21, but Synwax (from Mothers) works well, too. After you have applied you synthetic wax (I do 2 coats. For building layers, wait 12 hours between coats. For ensuring complete coverage, do them back to back), use a Carnauba. Before applying a Carnauba, you HAVE to wait 12 hours. Before you wax, make sure you get a clean MF towel and a good QD spray to wipe down the truck to eliminate dust to prevent swirling. Good carnaubas to follow the synthetics are: #16 (if you can find it), #26, California Gold, Gold Class (all these in order of preference), etc...
INTERIOR: Vacuum, use spot cleaner as necessary, etc. I recommend Scotch Guard for all fabrics. Follow instructions on all chemicals used. (If you Scotch Guard, it'll smell HORRIBLE for a few hours. Just leave your windows cracked all day, and it'll go away by itself. Leather: There are great products out there. I have a 1 step leather cleaner and conditioner, however, it's for my Dad's truck, so it's not the best. RockPick and those with leather interiors like Lexol I believe, as well as some others, but you'd have to ask them.
GLASS: I recommend Stoners Invisible Glass. If there are stubborn water spots or micro scratches, try a paste of Bar keepers friend, use Vinegar, or other glass restorer. on any of the, it is IMPERATIVE that absolutely NONE of it touches the paint. I recommend doing glass before you compound.
WHEEL WELLS: Spray the rubber with a cheap tire spray. (On the back, make sure you clean them really well. I use a nylon brush and Simple green to keep these clean.)
RIMS/TIRES, CONT.: Wipe down the tires gently with a shop rag to remove excess tire shine from slinging off. (Tire shine products I like, in order, are: Hyper Shine, Endurance Gloss, Hot Shine Gel.)
RIMS---Use a QD or a wheel QD (new for 2007 with meg's--wheel QD...works GREAT) and a MF towel to clean/shine. Before you drive, make sure there is no water trapped in the wheel...
FINAL TOUCHES: Use a good plastics cleaner (ie: 303 aerospace protectant, Natural Shine from Megs) to clean all plastics. Use the Natural Shine for all weather strippings and dash. Polish all metals, buff up all chrome, etc. It is this stage where you set your vehicle apart from the rest.
GOOD THINGS TO TRY:
-Use Plast-X on headlights, tail lights, and corner lights. It removes oxidation and discoloring and puts a polymer protectant on them.
-Detail the engine bay: Use an all purpose cleaner and the 2 bucket method with a rag or 2 and clean each part accessible. This is NOT a place to spray water. Some do it, but you should consider yourself lucky if you can spray water into your engine bay and not get misfires.
-Don't forget...all paint work above also applies to the roof of the cab.
-This is the time for all finishing touches to the truck. (These change from person to person. Some like to use 4 star ultimate gloss enhancer for that extra 'pop', etc...) Find what you can do to make your truck stand out.
PROJECTS TO MAKE YOUR TRUCK STAND OUT:
-Get a crawler and clean the undercarriage like 04RedLariat. Granted, he uses a steam genie, but you can achieve good results by hand with an all purpose cleaner. Don't forget to add some nice looking paint under there...
-Paint your brake Calipers. Follow all instructions. Gives your brakes a really 'clean' look, especially if you just paint the black. (If you have sweet rims and a really nice truck, yo might opt for a more visible color, but my rims are stock, and black offered me a clean look I didn't have before.)
-Buff out your toolbox/grilleguard (as applicable)
-etc, etc, etc....The list could go on. But rather than only doing what I've listed, do something we haven't (in addition to anything we have...but be creative) Have fun. I hope this wasn't too long, but I wanted to make sure you didn't screw up your truck. Don't forget to take pics before and after.
#20
05-15-2007, 11:31 PM
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I'll finish this up by saying good luck. BTW-- I hope you realize that once all this is done, it never all has to get done again IF you don't mess it all up. So, be careful (that's not to say that mine is still perfect...).
Have fun, and make sure to give us plenty of (properly sized) pics of before, during, and after...
Have fun, and make sure to give us plenty of (properly sized) pics of before, during, and after...