ok guys, i have bee working on cars for most of my life, but the whole paint thing escapes me. im in college and i am on a college budget and the time that i need to spend on my truck usually ends in studies. the truck currently has normal swirl marks from regular washing, but it also has heavy swirl marks from when the stealership repainted my front-end. i have an orbital buffer that i purchased from wal-mart thats made by cole. im just wondering what the best way to detail my truck is.

#1 clay?
#2 polish with some sort of polish from autozone and the orbital?
#3 wax using the orbital?

 

autodetailingsolutions...if you can get one of the DA kits...and unless you know exactly what your doing with the orbital I would stay away you could ruin your paint in a blink of your eye....

RP will probably chime in, but there are many posts about this same exact topic, do a search, look aorund for a little bit, you will find more than enough info...

 

I think he's talking about one of the cheap orbital buffers you purchase at Wally world or any autoparts store.

Personally I would use it to apply the wax or polish, but I would remove it by hand or get yourself a DA polisher.

 

yeah it's one of the cheap orbital buffers from wally world. i was planning on using it to apply the polish and wax, but of course i would remove it by hand since the orbital buffer wouldn't do a good job removing it. what type of products should i use that i can readily get from autozone or advance auto that would work well at getting the best possible shine on the truck?

 

I really like Meguires 3 step system of paint cleaner, polish and carnuba wax. I spent about 6 hours today washing the truck and doing the 3 steps. Truck looks awesome, yeah just in time for our family 3000 mile trip.

 

I used a PC on my whole truck here.

Meg's #83 #80 #20 and S100 carnuba.

You can almost see the front of my garage in the side. The roof peak is just above the mirror.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Sight unseen, I'd recommend the Meguiar's Deep Crystal 3-Step Process that wxs mentioned. It's readily available at most 'mart' stores and most chain autoparts shops.

As for the buffer, I'd probably just do everything by hand. I've seen some of the end results that some have induced to paint with those things... much safer to do it by hand in my opinion.

 

The DC system is pretty good and available just about everywhere that sells wax. The Megs D and M lines are great stuff as well but harder to find and have a dizzying array of products in them. The DC system is a great place to cut your teeth.

Here's the steps I'd take using it in a detail.

1. Wash the truck very well (if it's hasn't been properly detailed in a long time you could use dish soap to strip the old wax and stuff off, but don't use it regularly, use a car wash soap, Megs has several good ones). Use the 2 bucket method (1 bucket with soap, 1 with clean water, rinse wash utensil out in clean water after washing a panel, then soap up and go on to next panel. This avoids scratches from the dirt/grit). You can use an appropriate wheels cleaner if you want, such as Megs All Wheel Cleaner for clear coated wheels. Personally I just wash them like the rest of the truck - no special cleaner. Dry with microfiber towels/Meg's water magnet. You're going to be using lots of MF's so make sure you're stocked up!

2. Clay the truck. I've used and like both the Mother's and Megs clay kits. They come with a bar of clay and some instant detailer you use as a lubricant for the clay. Cut the clay in half. If you drop it on the ground toss it out, it will have picked up crap off the ground that could scratch the paint. Don't risk it, toss it out. When claying you spray some of the lube on a section and rub the clay on it. When the lube starts drying up dry the rest up with a MF towel. You'll quickly figure out how much of the lube you need to use, don't let it get too dry or the clay will stick on the paint. Err on the side of caution if you're unsure, but overly drowning the surface in lube will make it harder for the clay to pick up the contamination it's removing. Use your hand to feel the paint after you've clayed an area, it should be as smooth as glass when you've got all the contamination out. If you still feel stuff go over it again. The clay can also be used on the windows and clear coated wheels if you want to go for bonus points. If you do the wheels use old/worn out clay as wheels full of brake dust can really contaminate clay. Do them last. Some people like to rewash after claying, your choice. Use carwash soap!

3. Dress the wheels. There are lots of products out there, I like Megs Endurance and NXT Insane Shine myself. Check to see if you can find Eagle One Tire Swipes, Pep Boys carries them. They're pieces of foam contoured to the shape if a tire that are great for evening out tire dressing. I found out about them on this site and they're great.

4. Use the DC1 Paint Cleaner. It will remove light swirls and prepare the paint for polishing. Do a section at a time and remove with MF towels. Wipe if off before it dries, it does its thing as you're rubbing it on, not by drying. Note clear coated wheels can be treated just like painted surfaces if you want to do them as well.

5. Use the DC2 Polish. It works the same as DC1 in removing fine defects and also deepens the color and makes it wet and glossy looking.

6. Use the DC3 Wax. The previous steps have made the paint look good but haven't given it any protection. This is what the wax is for. Apply it as thinly as possible and allow it to fully dry before removing it. To test, swipe your finger across it and see if it comes off cleanly and completely. If it does it's ready to remove. Note that you can use any wax you want at this step, I was just using the DC system for this process. The DC3 wax is carnuba and looks good but doesn't offer the durability of a synthetic. If you want better durability use a synthetic like NXT. You can also put a carnuba over the top of a synthetic for a great combo of protection and looks.

7. Dress the rubber/vinyl trim, carefully! Try to not get any on your freshly detailed paintwork. Vinylex (made by Lexol) and 303 Aerospace Protectant are favorites. If you get some on paint fix it with some instant detailer from the clay kit.

8. Clean the windows/mirrors. I like to clean the exterior glass with glass cleaner. My fave is Stoner's Invisible Glass. I also like Sprayway, others have said good things about 20/10 although I've never tried it. If you've got tinted windows make sure it doesn't have ammonia in it, most auto glass cleaners are but read the bottle.

9. If you're not worn out and still thirsty for more, go over the truck with some instant detailer. It can add a little extra pop but most of the time I say it's overkill. But sometimes I do it just for the warm fuzzies I get on the inside LOL.

Good Luck, and have fun, because that's what it's all about!

 

LRG - You just described the exact process I did yesterday. I am really thinking that after my exhaust one of those DA kits is going to be my next investment.

So you say you can do a carnuba over a synthetic, but can it be done the other way around (synthetic over carnuba)? Thanks

 

First... nice post there LRG...

wxscpo... not really. As LRG points out, the durability of a synthetic is a plus whereas the appearance of a carnauba is a plus.

The durability from most synthetics arrives because of 'cure' times with the paint. They actually -- well most do -- set up with the paint and don't necessarily sit on top of the paint like a natural wax does. Some will say that the product is bonding... some will call it more of a sharing on a molecular level... whichever you call it, the synthetic must go down first and cure first prior to carnauba.

Also, keep in mind that many carnauba-based waxes out there also have light cleaners in them. This is exactly the type of product that you do not want to 'layer' with as the cleaners will remove some of the previous layer that is on the paint. FYI.

RP

 

cool, thanks guys. looks like i got some rubbing ahead of me.

 

Sorry guys this is probably covered a million times but for adding the the thread a tad I'll go ahead and ask.

What is "DC" is that a brand name or what?

 

DC = Deep Crystal

 

The PC is one of the most worthwhile investments you'll make in keeping your rig looking great. You'll get results with it that you just won't get doing it by hand. Not to mention the convenience of using it, if you're doing a full on detail by hand with 3-4 different products you arm is going to hurt! Using a machine will make it much easier on the bod.

On putting synthetic over carnuba I'd have to quote Larry the Cable Guy, "It's like wiping before you go poop, it just don't make sense!" Reason being that the carnuba is what gives the best look, and synthetic gives the best protection. You want the carnuba on top because that's what's creating the depth and gloss, if you put synthetic on top you're covering up that nice look and are basically getting the same thing as if you'd just put synthetic on and no carnuba.

I'd also like to give a quick shout out to RP, qadsan, rustyzipper, and the other detailing gods on here. I've learned a lot from you all as I'm sure everyone else has.

 

Thanks RP & LRG for the responses. Next time I do a full detail (probably Aug) I do the synthetic first then carnuba the next day.

Is every 3 months safe to do the dawn dish soap treatment?