Just curious, but for the wifes car I have only used Liquid glass on hers, could I use the collinite 845 over that?

 

Yeah... I answered that in another thread where you asked that... I think.

But, none the less... YES, you can put 845 over LG.

 

Thanks again

 

Sorry I think I must have missed out on something here. I'm not sure what.

The steps I gave were right off the Mequiars web-site for proper procedures in taking care of new car paint. Megs Faq's were.... why would I need to clean new car paint? Quote per Mike Phillips..."Everything will stick better to clean paint."

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/post/7742.aspx

 

RockPick hopefully this is the last thing, this is what Im going with:
1) Wash NXT
2) Claybar Meguiar's
3) Meguiar's #21
4) Collinite 845

*Should I use anything over the Collinite 845? If I do I can re-apply this after every other wash correct?

**Im going to use the new Ultimate Quik Detailer after each wash, if I cant do with what is listed above

***How long should I do either * or ** before stripping off and reapplying the whole kabam?

 

Which is the absolute MOST conservative route available to mankind. Again, we're dealing with a certain level of 'SALES' there as well... remember, I was a Meguiar's Online moderator not too terribly long ago.

I'm saying that I absolutely DISAGREE with that procedure. You're showing up with a tub of sunflower seeds and it's only a Pee-Wee league T-Ball team...

While that procedure would not hurt a thing... it's a Super Duty and he's doing it all by hand. Further, it's brand new paint that won't have ANYTHING on it to begin with... they don't factory 'glaze' them or 'wax' them rolling out the back end of KTP.

The only way that the NECESSITY for a CLEANING step exists is if the lot lizards got a hold of it and washed it with their 2000 grit mitt... other than that, we're dealing with paint that has been unadulterated.

Wash
Clay
Pure Polish (optional)
Synthetic X2
Collinite 845

.

 

Thanks

 

Good questions, knighj.

I wouldn't recommend anything OVER the 845. In and of itself, you'll note that the paint will darken when you apply it and it may even have a 'shadow' effect to it. This is normal. Don't freak or 'rub harder' to remove it. Give it a day and it'll flatten out to the point that you won't notice it (the problem is simple optics with some carnauba-based waxes -- #16/#26/Mother's Carnauba, etc -- they all tend to do this on a very dark vehicle now and again).

Maintaining with the UQD product is a-o-k. No problems. Remember though, don't QD when you should wash. It's a recipe for disaster on black paint - trust me. It's better to leave it a bit dirty and then wash when you have ample time to do it right than it is to try to QD over a vehicle that is overly soiled beyond the scope of what QDs are made for use. (hint: invest in some Poorboy's Spray and Wipe -- this will get you through the days when the dust is a bit heavy on the paint -- also, have some good MF towels on standby).

The time to break it all down and start from scratch is going to have to be something that you call on your own. My simple answer is do it when you need to do it. Odds are, you'll be fine for a good long time with your procedure - especially tacking on another coat of 845 every so often - but, even the best of the best will induce swirls, scratches, and other paint problems during their regular routines.

What you should pay attention to is your wash, dry, and QD techniques as this is where most problems are introduced. I'd be happy to post a bit about this stuff if you'd like -- not tonight though - the pillow is yelling from across the hall.

Sorry... I wobbled away from the question a tad...

Once those swirls and scratches start to become more prevalent, it might be time to consider the full sha-bang over again but, this time, you will need to go with some type of cleaner or abrasive polish to remove those paint problems that you'll eventually introduce. Get with us when you get to that junction in your ownership and we'll discuss it a bit more...

Also, just another tidbit/hint, you may seriously want to consider investing in a PC. This will make your life easier on that behemoth.

 

Would def. like the tips on washing and drying, i normally use a absorber from wally world, but will change.

Also do you recommend the PC if so which model, my brother has been buffing cars for years, but has never had time to teach me and they use the makita where he works and he said he could get me one for 175, just dont know if its a good deal or not.

 

Even with new paint I'd use the paint cleaner.

 

I will offer a few tips.
For washing, use the 2 bucket method. This involves using one bucket for the soapy water and one to rinse out your wash mitt before putting it back into the soapy water bucket. This helps to prevent the dirt and other crap you cleaned off the car from being put back onto the surface by the mitt. I would also recommend getting Grit Guards to stick in the bottom of each bucket. These will help to prevent the dirt from getting back onto the wash mitt. Also, remember that you dont need to go over the same area over and over. Two or three passes should be plenty to get the dirt off. last, i prefer using a sheepskin wash mitt on my truck

For drying, begin by running the water directly out of the hose so that it creates a sheeting effect. This will help to get the majority of the water off. Then you can follow it with a drying towel. I would recommend blotting the water instead of dragging the towel across the surface. This will help prevent swirls. Also, i use my air compressor to blow the water out of the cracks and edges of my vehicle to help prevent it from streaking later. some people also prefer using a drying blade to get the water off the car.


I would recommend watching this video....I thought i knew how to wash my car but i still learnt a few things from this video. It is VERY VERY good.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...your+car&hl=en

 

Ill have to watch that when I have more time, thanks for the advice and the input




ROCKPICK:

I am now intereted in the g100 and am thinking about a kit from here
http://www.autodetailingsolutions.co...20Specials.htm


I saw a thread where you helped thumpermx113 on what to buy, should I get asentially what he did or did he go overboard, my truck will be brand new, but the wifes needs some work
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...highlight=g100

 

check email when you get a chance

 

I'd say the PC is the way to go there. For about $175 you could get a PC and a couple of pads as well. The rotary has the potential to royally F up paint in the hands of the untrained. It's also VERY difficult to get a swirl free finish with it. A good many of the pros will use the rotary for serious defect removal when needed, then finish up with the PC for swirl removal. The PC is capable of many great things and is pretty tough to screw up paint with, making it an excellent tool for someone just getting in to all this. I'd say get the PC 1st and if you get really serious about detailing get a rotary later.

If you've missed the many, many posts mentioning autodetailingsolutions.com and the #2 PC package now you have the info . The PC 7424 and G100 are the same thing and you'll see them used interchangeably. Also note the G100 has a lifetime warranty, the PC has a 1 year.

 

Package 1 from ADS
(1) w8006
(2) w9006
Meg #7
Meg #21
Meg #26
Meg #80
Meg #9 *Would I be better off with the 9 or the 82?
Meg #82
(2)12 Micro towel
(2) Grit gaurds
Ultimate quick detailer
Smooth surface clay kit
Final Inspection #34
NXT Wax


I think this is what Im going to get