New Ride, when to wax..
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Originally Posted by Net Wurker
Also, the first thing you should do after washing it is to use a detailing clay on it. It will really smooth out the paint.
Find some time to clay it before you wax it. The misconception that it shouldn't be waxed until several days (months) down the road is yesteryear's thought.
Catalyzed paint (aka: baked) is all that the manufacturers can use due to environmental regulations and such. Because it's baked, you need not worry about the solvents flashing out of the paint (which was why our father's wouldn't wax a new vehicle).
Best of luck to you and enjoy that new ride!
-RP-
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I've had my 2007 Screw for about a month now, and after washing it earlier this week I noticed a rough finish on the hood. I've used a clay bar before, but it was actually when I worked at a detail shop while in high school (short term internship) and didn't realize the benefits at the time. So, I decided to get a clay bar and see if that would help and man what a difference. I did mainly the hood, the rest of the vehicle feels very smooth, but I could see small particles on the hood and wanted to get that off. I got the mother's clay bar kit and I was wondering if this has any effect at all on the clear coat. I can't imagine it has much if any, or else I would have read about it when I was doing research on the subject before I did this myself. Can anyone confirm this, because on the way to the parts store, a friend was telling me that when you use clay, it actually removes a layer of clear coat. I'm a little concerned about the effects of this and was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on the subject.
Thanks
Thanks
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While there are levels of "aggressiveness" for different grades of clay, I think if you stick with the OTC stuff (over the counter) you find at mart stores and parts stores (Like the yellow Mothers stuff), you should be safe. The more aggressive clays are usually only available on-line or from auto detailing supply jobbers.
Make sure you follow the instructions included with the clay kit. The idea is that the clay "rides" on a microscopic level of the lube, and as it glides along, it either pulls the stuck-in contaminants out of the top coat, or it shears them off. The important thing is that contaminants are embedded into the clay itself, so as not to drag along the top surface of the finish.
I think the biggest risk with using clay is to not use enough lube, and you start to drag stuff across the finish, causing some micro marring or scratches. I don't think the removal of clear-coat is a worry.
Are you sure your friend wasn't referring to polishing, which is much more likely to start removing dangerous levels of clear-coat if you start using too aggressive product or pad? Especially so with a rotary.
Make sure you follow the instructions included with the clay kit. The idea is that the clay "rides" on a microscopic level of the lube, and as it glides along, it either pulls the stuck-in contaminants out of the top coat, or it shears them off. The important thing is that contaminants are embedded into the clay itself, so as not to drag along the top surface of the finish.
I think the biggest risk with using clay is to not use enough lube, and you start to drag stuff across the finish, causing some micro marring or scratches. I don't think the removal of clear-coat is a worry.
Are you sure your friend wasn't referring to polishing, which is much more likely to start removing dangerous levels of clear-coat if you start using too aggressive product or pad? Especially so with a rotary.
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no, I'm sure he meant the clay, what I'm not sure of is his level of understanding about what it's for or what it does. I think he got this information from an unreliable source, and was only passing along the information. I don't think he knows a whole lot about the subject. Thanks for the re-assurnace, I think I did the right thing, and I did follow the instructions on the box. I used lots of lube, and the finish was left extremly smooth. I'm happy with the result so far.