Getting ready to use my PC.
#1
06-20-2007, 10:53 PM
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Getting ready to use my PC.
Well, I have watched the training DVD that came with the PC and have a little better idea of how to use the machine. I do have a few question though. What is the physical difference between the polishing and finishing pads. Do you only apply wax with the finishing pads? Also, from watching the guy in the video remove the product with the PC, it looks like the bonnet would gum up bad.
I am thinking about starting with #26 the topping it off with NXT.
Anyone have any input or suggestions for first PC use.
I am thinking about starting with #26 the topping it off with NXT.
Anyone have any input or suggestions for first PC use.
#2
06-20-2007, 11:29 PM
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This is what I recommend beginners do...
Tape off an area, about 2'x2'
Put 2 small daps of polish on the pad
Pat the pad/ polish around the area
Turn PC to speed 3 and spread evenly around the area
Turn PC to speed 6 and work polish in
You need to work the polish in for 3- 5 min, go slowly and use overlapping strokes. Buff off with microfiber.
The physical difference between polishing and finishing pads is por size, material, stiffness, etc. Wax doesnt have any correcting abilities, so yes, apply it with the finishing pads. I dont like using the bonnets to remove wax.
Tape off an area, about 2'x2'
Put 2 small daps of polish on the pad
Pat the pad/ polish around the area
Turn PC to speed 3 and spread evenly around the area
Turn PC to speed 6 and work polish in
You need to work the polish in for 3- 5 min, go slowly and use overlapping strokes. Buff off with microfiber.
The physical difference between polishing and finishing pads is por size, material, stiffness, etc. Wax doesnt have any correcting abilities, so yes, apply it with the finishing pads. I dont like using the bonnets to remove wax.
#3
06-21-2007, 08:36 AM
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#4
06-21-2007, 09:00 AM
Originally Posted by Net Wurker
Got the order backwards.....NXT first, then the #26. Wait twelve hours before topping with #26 if possible, for best results.
NXT has a VERY mild cleaning ability and, as such, may remove much of the #26 that was put down pre-NXT.
Also, for pad speed and pad selection, reference this chart:
NEVER work a polish until it's dry on the paint. You *will* induce problems. Additionally, it is my personal opinion that a 'pure' polish (like #7), need not be worked for an extended period of time in that it's doing no abrasive or chemical cleaning of the paint.
Products like #83, #80, PB's SSR, etc will need to be 'worked' longer on the paint in order for the product to do the work that is necessary to remove the paint problem that you're going after.
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06-21-2007, 12:44 PM
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#6
06-21-2007, 02:22 PM
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#7
06-21-2007, 06:16 PM
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CountryBoy
I have been polishing and waxing my rigs for approx 35 years. Initially I used the inexpensive Sears orbiter, then just a few months ago got my complete PC kit. After using the PC several times I have developed an unorthodox, but very effective use of the PC, Sears, pads, etc.
For liquid waxes the PC applicator may work well? However, I learned some time ago the liquids evaporate or wash off much quicker than the paste carnubas. So I use Mother's Carnuba. It lasts approx 4-5 months.
When applying paste wax right off a PC pad I find the wax does not come off evenly, first a lot, then less than desired. Also the excess paste flys off the pad everywhere. I apply the paste wax by hand. I let it dry beyond a normal dryness as I found more wax remains on the paint rather than buffing at what may seem like normal dryness. With the change of weather the old true finger-wipe test will tell you when the wax is dry to your specification.
Of all the various PC pads I have, I have all but shelved all but the 6" Sponge Rubber Polishing Pad, #54745. I slip a 6" Microfiber Bonnet, (MB 6 pack) over the Sponge Pad. Then I place an El Cheapo bath wash terry cloth between the Microfiber and the paint, allowing the wash rag to absorb most of the excess wax. This saves greatly on Bonnets and defends against Bonnet over loading with excess wax. And you can change wash cloths at will. If the wash cloth zips off, the Bonnet is there to act as a safety buffer for the few twirls the PC may make before retrieving the wash cloth. Ultimately when I have that section of my pickup initially buffed, I then go over it very slightly and lightly with the Microfiber Bonnet to give a near finish shine. Very little wax will transfer to the Bonnet. Then I have terry cloth towels that I use to finish off the buffing by hand. Believe me, I have not had a swirl in years.
I alway stand to where my eyesight is at a near plane to the just finished waxed vehicle section for missed spots. No swirls. I wash the wash cloths each time, and the Microfiber Bonnet approx every 3 car waxings, and the final hand terry cloth towel approx every 3 car waxings.
My rig is white and reflects well in sun or shade.
I have been polishing and waxing my rigs for approx 35 years. Initially I used the inexpensive Sears orbiter, then just a few months ago got my complete PC kit. After using the PC several times I have developed an unorthodox, but very effective use of the PC, Sears, pads, etc.
For liquid waxes the PC applicator may work well? However, I learned some time ago the liquids evaporate or wash off much quicker than the paste carnubas. So I use Mother's Carnuba. It lasts approx 4-5 months.
When applying paste wax right off a PC pad I find the wax does not come off evenly, first a lot, then less than desired. Also the excess paste flys off the pad everywhere. I apply the paste wax by hand. I let it dry beyond a normal dryness as I found more wax remains on the paint rather than buffing at what may seem like normal dryness. With the change of weather the old true finger-wipe test will tell you when the wax is dry to your specification.
Of all the various PC pads I have, I have all but shelved all but the 6" Sponge Rubber Polishing Pad, #54745. I slip a 6" Microfiber Bonnet, (MB 6 pack) over the Sponge Pad. Then I place an El Cheapo bath wash terry cloth between the Microfiber and the paint, allowing the wash rag to absorb most of the excess wax. This saves greatly on Bonnets and defends against Bonnet over loading with excess wax. And you can change wash cloths at will. If the wash cloth zips off, the Bonnet is there to act as a safety buffer for the few twirls the PC may make before retrieving the wash cloth. Ultimately when I have that section of my pickup initially buffed, I then go over it very slightly and lightly with the Microfiber Bonnet to give a near finish shine. Very little wax will transfer to the Bonnet. Then I have terry cloth towels that I use to finish off the buffing by hand. Believe me, I have not had a swirl in years.
I alway stand to where my eyesight is at a near plane to the just finished waxed vehicle section for missed spots. No swirls. I wash the wash cloths each time, and the Microfiber Bonnet approx every 3 car waxings, and the final hand terry cloth towel approx every 3 car waxings.
My rig is white and reflects well in sun or shade.
Last edited by Req; 06-21-2007 at 06:20 PM.
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#8
06-22-2007, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RockPick
Correct. The time factor is to allow the NXT to bond with the paint.
NXT has a VERY mild cleaning ability and, as such, may remove much of the #26 that was put down pre-NXT.
Also, for pad speed and pad selection, reference this chart:
NEVER work a polish until it's dry on the paint. You *will* induce problems. Additionally, it is my personal opinion that a 'pure' polish (like #7), need not be worked for an extended period of time in that it's doing no abrasive or chemical cleaning of the paint.
Products like #83, #80, PB's SSR, etc will need to be 'worked' longer on the paint in order for the product to do the work that is necessary to remove the paint problem that you're going after.
NXT has a VERY mild cleaning ability and, as such, may remove much of the #26 that was put down pre-NXT.
Also, for pad speed and pad selection, reference this chart:
NEVER work a polish until it's dry on the paint. You *will* induce problems. Additionally, it is my personal opinion that a 'pure' polish (like #7), need not be worked for an extended period of time in that it's doing no abrasive or chemical cleaning of the paint.
Products like #83, #80, PB's SSR, etc will need to be 'worked' longer on the paint in order for the product to do the work that is necessary to remove the paint problem that you're going after.