Bad Paint
#1
#2
Ouch huge time on that. I have an 03 and no problems other than a few chips out from rocks. That sucks big time, i doubt anyone else is having that problem, or atleast very very few. Sheesh. I feel for you; the only other thing i can think of on my truck is that the bottom gray border is starting to peel in one spot on the fender.
#5
Sight unseen, it's a tough call as to what may have happend or is happening. My hunch is that one of two things has occured. First, it's a resprayed truck and the shop that did the work did a shotty job. My second thought is that it is a total anomoly from the factory.
If you had said that the paint was 1987 or so, I would've blamed it on the coating system from the factory (switch from solvent-based to water-based coatings) but, based on what you're saying, I'm betting on a respray.
-RP-
If you had said that the paint was 1987 or so, I would've blamed it on the coating system from the factory (switch from solvent-based to water-based coatings) but, based on what you're saying, I'm betting on a respray.
-RP-
#6
Originally Posted by zzrenzo
I own a 2000 Ford F150. Bought it brand new, it came with the 3 accessories package, bed liner, hood deflector and running boards.
The truck is silver and the paint on the hood is flaking away, anyone else have this problem???
The truck is silver and the paint on the hood is flaking away, anyone else have this problem???
To see if it was repainted before you purchased it try to borrow an electronic mil gauge. Compare the hood reading to the roof.
Or take it to a reputable body shop because if they don't have a mil gauge chances are good they can find evidence of re-paint especially if it was done at the dealer level.
Chances are fair this is a re-paint issue because the paint isn't smart enough to peel off the hood but not the roof especially when it was painted with the same process every other truck in the plant was painted with,
Being the original owner you had a legitimate gripe right up until the point the paint warranty expired which I believe is 12K miles. Maybe if you ask nice and/or your a good customer with you selling dealer they might help you out with the stripping and repainting. It doesn't hurt to ask.
As far as it having to with not waxing it couldn't be further from the truth. If it had validity the roof and tops of the bed rails, doors and fenders would be peeling to from UV degradation of a cheap coating,
FWIW I have yet to see one tech or p-sheet on any coating in the automotive aftermarket that requires a frequent waxing to achieve it's expected life. The base, clear or single stage either uses a quality resin system with quality UV inhibitors or it doesn't.
Now, if you build a car and only offered a 12K mile (about 1 year of average driving) coating warranty what type of product would you probably be using?
Last edited by AutoPaintMaker; 07-04-2007 at 12:19 AM.
#7
Originally Posted by RockPick
If you had said that the paint was 1987 or so, I would've blamed it on the coating system from the factory (switch from solvent-based to water-based coatings) but, based on what you're saying, I'm betting on a respray.
-RP-
-RP-
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#8
Please take no offense but why would you need to wax an acrylic urethane or polyurethane clear or single stage on your oem ride to make it last, keep it glossy and prevent it from peeling when that same type of paint (must be Skydrol approved for jets but this is an easy test to pass with a decent polyurethane resin based product) applied to a class 8 tractor and/or its trailer, a Gulfstream jet or the like bizjet, even a slug of a commercial jet like a Delta 757 that rarely stops moving do not require wax and 4 step meguiars processes to make the finish last?
Plus how many class 8 tractors have you seen going down the interstate with a semi-recent/later model oem paint job (or off-road industrial equipment like excavators) that were peeling? Very few if any right? Since these drivers all but stay on the road when was the last time you recall a driver waxing his truck at a Flying J or the like to keep the paint from peeling?
If anyone is really bored and wants to do some homework go to DuPont, PPG or Sherwin Williams (the 3 big players in the US) websites, find automotive clearcoats, select every clearcoat tech sheet or p-bulletin you see then note how many of these different clearcoats state they require things like clay barring, polishing/cleaning and waxing to not only co-exist but last in the world which we live once the product is sprayed. When looking at individual clearcoat products if they happen to offer any possible lifespans or results of accelerated tests like QUV/Florida Black Box please look to see how many coats of wax this requires over the life of the coating to achieve stated results. If they offer chemical resistance resulted from things such as xylene rubs be sure to note how many coats of wax it took to achieve said results and how often said wax needs to be applied..
Believe it or not I'm not being a butt, I just hate to see people sold on snake oil misconceptions/half-truths. The moral while polishes and waxes typically won't hurt your finish they are never required or even considered when determining how long a coating will last because they simply don't provide any positive contributing factors to the life of a coating regardless of how good or bad it was formulated.
Back to the original poster: If I knew for a fact that your hood had been repainted outside of the OEM factory the most probable cause of silver base delaminating is not letting enough time for the silver base to flash solvents off/out of between the coats of base. If you peel of a piece of clear and find silver metallic base is adhered to the under side of the clear you have about a 90+% chance re-coat time of the base was rushed. This is very common BTW.
Plus how many class 8 tractors have you seen going down the interstate with a semi-recent/later model oem paint job (or off-road industrial equipment like excavators) that were peeling? Very few if any right? Since these drivers all but stay on the road when was the last time you recall a driver waxing his truck at a Flying J or the like to keep the paint from peeling?
If anyone is really bored and wants to do some homework go to DuPont, PPG or Sherwin Williams (the 3 big players in the US) websites, find automotive clearcoats, select every clearcoat tech sheet or p-bulletin you see then note how many of these different clearcoats state they require things like clay barring, polishing/cleaning and waxing to not only co-exist but last in the world which we live once the product is sprayed. When looking at individual clearcoat products if they happen to offer any possible lifespans or results of accelerated tests like QUV/Florida Black Box please look to see how many coats of wax this requires over the life of the coating to achieve stated results. If they offer chemical resistance resulted from things such as xylene rubs be sure to note how many coats of wax it took to achieve said results and how often said wax needs to be applied..
Believe it or not I'm not being a butt, I just hate to see people sold on snake oil misconceptions/half-truths. The moral while polishes and waxes typically won't hurt your finish they are never required or even considered when determining how long a coating will last because they simply don't provide any positive contributing factors to the life of a coating regardless of how good or bad it was formulated.
Back to the original poster: If I knew for a fact that your hood had been repainted outside of the OEM factory the most probable cause of silver base delaminating is not letting enough time for the silver base to flash solvents off/out of between the coats of base. If you peel of a piece of clear and find silver metallic base is adhered to the under side of the clear you have about a 90+% chance re-coat time of the base was rushed. This is very common BTW.
Last edited by AutoPaintMaker; 07-05-2007 at 05:00 AM.
#9
I just look at the majority of vehicles in my neighborhood (I've lived here 29 years straight) that don't get any paint maintenance, some including same exact year and models that I own right down to the color, and they're the ones that have the peeling, faded, and/or cracked paint with a lot of rust and/or rotting spots thrown in while mine (and other vehicles with frequently maintained paint) still look as good as showroom and most of the time a lot better since most of the products used greatly enhance the look over how it comes from the factory.
And these vehicles have the stock paint just like mine (never been re-painted.) How can you really need any more proof then that? Acid rain, road salt, oxidation, bird dropping, UV rays, etc.etc. must all have some degrading effect on paint, no? How can steps that clean and condition, but also add a layer that's repelling acid rain, bird droppings, etc. not be a positive contributing factor to the life of a coating?
Take a look at driveways and parking lots that are sealcoated and maintained frequently and then look at the ones that aren't... the one's that are maintained last a lot longer and look a lot better - the pavement doesn't dry out and start to get brittle and degrade as quick as the one's that aren't maintained. Weather just beats the crap out of everything, it doesn't matter if it's a vehicle, or the great pyramids. But with some maintenance, you can really slow that degrading effect down.
And sold on snake oil? Of course, I (and most others here) don't just do it for the protection aspect, if there was 100% proof that there's absolutely no protection, you can't deny that using quality polishes and waxes with the proper prep steps (claying for example) doesn't yield a look ten fold better then what it looks like brand new (unless you're blind, lol.) Hell, you can just clay a brand new vehicle and notice a difference right away (can you say embedded rail dust?)
Oh and I hate to say it, but a lot of those "class 8 tractors" are maintained very strictly! Especially the privately owned ones! I know a lot of people that have them! You don't think at $200,000 a truck that they're not going to get maintained?? I can go down to the nearest truck stop and they sell everything from Meguiars wax to Mothers Polish and they sell a lot of it! Hell, our tandem dump trucks are washed and waxed every weekend! Guess what? Ours even though it's used under harsh construction conditions still looks mint compared to the trucks that aren't maintained and their paints are all fading, cracked, peeling, etc. I can go take pics this weekend of all the pristine looking big "commercial work vehicles" from nearby companies and the privately owned ones and they're all cleaned and maintained weekly and waxed frequently! (I see them do it, hell, I used to do it for some of them before I started getting older and tired, and the results of theirs vs the ones that aren't with my own eyes - I don't need any more proof then that!)
God himself didn't put in the spec sheets that a tree needed a chemical treatment to last, but yet, we chemically treat telephone poles for what reason? Face it, chemicals greatly slow down the degrading effects of weather regardless what it is, or what they actually decided to put in the data sheets.
And these vehicles have the stock paint just like mine (never been re-painted.) How can you really need any more proof then that? Acid rain, road salt, oxidation, bird dropping, UV rays, etc.etc. must all have some degrading effect on paint, no? How can steps that clean and condition, but also add a layer that's repelling acid rain, bird droppings, etc. not be a positive contributing factor to the life of a coating?
Take a look at driveways and parking lots that are sealcoated and maintained frequently and then look at the ones that aren't... the one's that are maintained last a lot longer and look a lot better - the pavement doesn't dry out and start to get brittle and degrade as quick as the one's that aren't maintained. Weather just beats the crap out of everything, it doesn't matter if it's a vehicle, or the great pyramids. But with some maintenance, you can really slow that degrading effect down.
And sold on snake oil? Of course, I (and most others here) don't just do it for the protection aspect, if there was 100% proof that there's absolutely no protection, you can't deny that using quality polishes and waxes with the proper prep steps (claying for example) doesn't yield a look ten fold better then what it looks like brand new (unless you're blind, lol.) Hell, you can just clay a brand new vehicle and notice a difference right away (can you say embedded rail dust?)
Oh and I hate to say it, but a lot of those "class 8 tractors" are maintained very strictly! Especially the privately owned ones! I know a lot of people that have them! You don't think at $200,000 a truck that they're not going to get maintained?? I can go down to the nearest truck stop and they sell everything from Meguiars wax to Mothers Polish and they sell a lot of it! Hell, our tandem dump trucks are washed and waxed every weekend! Guess what? Ours even though it's used under harsh construction conditions still looks mint compared to the trucks that aren't maintained and their paints are all fading, cracked, peeling, etc. I can go take pics this weekend of all the pristine looking big "commercial work vehicles" from nearby companies and the privately owned ones and they're all cleaned and maintained weekly and waxed frequently! (I see them do it, hell, I used to do it for some of them before I started getting older and tired, and the results of theirs vs the ones that aren't with my own eyes - I don't need any more proof then that!)
God himself didn't put in the spec sheets that a tree needed a chemical treatment to last, but yet, we chemically treat telephone poles for what reason? Face it, chemicals greatly slow down the degrading effects of weather regardless what it is, or what they actually decided to put in the data sheets.
#11
Had a black 2000 that the paint kinda bubbled up and peeled like rust from under the paint, but the hood surface was clean underneath the paint....... A large spot under the bug deflector, and two smaller spots on either side up by the cowl. I was under the impression that the hoods on these trucks are aluminum, and that could make a difference on how the paint will stick??
#12
I HACE A 2003 SUPERCREW AND THE PAINT ON THE BACK SIDE PANEL ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IS CRACKING ALSO IT STARTED WITH A LIL SPOT BUT NOW THE WHOLE BACK SIDE IS LIKE THAT. I FIRST THOUGHT IT A CAT SCRATCHING IT TRYING TO GET UP BUT IT JUST GETS BIGGER, A FORD DEALER SHIP SAID THEY MIGHT HAVE USED THE WRONG PRIMER FOR THE ARIZONA HEAT. I WAX THE TRUCK ABOUT EVERY THREE MONTHS ALSO.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...llery10087.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...llery10087.jpg
#15
I'll have to agree with APM.
I completely understand your statement too emig5m. I see paint peel on many Dodges and Chevies. I don't see too much on Fords still.
I believe that todays paint isn't required to have 'extra' visual paint care that many here do. With that said, there must be some type or correlation with a lack of care and paint peel whether it is non-maintenance or paint application.
I completely understand your statement too emig5m. I see paint peel on many Dodges and Chevies. I don't see too much on Fords still.
I believe that todays paint isn't required to have 'extra' visual paint care that many here do. With that said, there must be some type or correlation with a lack of care and paint peel whether it is non-maintenance or paint application.