I have been using a PC for about 2 years but not quite satisfied with getting all swirls and light scratches out. I have been using Meguiar's pads and #80 and get good results but would like something better. Would you recommend to step up to a rotary? Maybe different pads or products first?

I know there is the potential to damage paint with a rotary but would practice on a beater first.

Maybe I just need to approach a vehicle differently with the PC but it seems to take a long time when doing a car that has been neglected.

Any ideas????

Kevin

 

get one...you will never use the pc again...dewalt and makita are about the two best out there as far as electric one go. makita has diffrent handle options and dewalt is very straight forward hand positions..both have left and right hand option...make sure it is varible speed if you choose not to go with one of those mentioned brand...

 

I was under the impression that a DA polisher was better than a rotary?

 

da means safer not better....da is a step down from full rotary. but many people are scared of rotary because they heard of someone 10 years ago burnt the paint on thier car....very easy to do years ago with a rotary, they were not varible speed like they are now, they did not have a good selection of foam pads like they do now, wool was about your only choice years ago and you only had about 3 choices of compounds, and paint years ago was soft single stage...no where near as hard as paints today with hard catalyzed clear coats. i started using a rotary about 18 years ago and have tried to use a pc a couple of time to see what the hype was. my opinion in comparision to rotary vs a pc is that a pc works slow, horrible vibration on hands and arms, has no power, has no cut, cant take out large scratches. i am sure some will respond that a pc is just as good as a rotarty but those that say that have not used a rotary in the last 10 years or so. with a huge selection of foam pads and many compounds you can set your speed and have an infinate amount of options and not have to worry about burning through.

 

I agree with troberts.... The only thing I use the da for is for a freshen up now and then. Once you learn how to use the rotary , your da will sit on the shelf. As stated either the Makita or DeWalt are good choices. I personally prefer the Makita, it doesn't seem as bulky in your hand and is more comfortable to use, but that's my opinion. Get a foam pad and practice on your beater starting out with slow speeds until you learn to control the buffer.
It's not hard to do, go for it.

Vince

 

I use both almost everyday.

90% of the time my PC is my first choice. What troberts6874 says about ease of use, wear and tear on you etc is pretty much spot on. The Rotary remove defects faster, and easier.

so why do I still grab a PC first?

The number one rule of thumb that I have been taught over and over again the last 30 plus years I have been doing this is: Always use the least agressive method possible.

by the very definition of the machine. and the way it is used, the PC is less agressive than a rotary.

Why do I still recommend a PC to a hobbyist over a rotary?

- it is impossible to tell over an internet forum who is capable of what. The PC is pretty much fool proof, and therefore a very good recommendation for everyone from the twice a year hobbyist to a professional.


Which rotary to pick up? I had a Makita for many years . it died a few months ago, and I picked up a new DeWalt. I like the way the DeWalt feels, but I miss the bail handle the Makita had on it ..

If you grab a rotary .. go to a salvage yard, and pick up an old hood for 20 bucks or so .. take it home and get the feel of the rotary on the old hood.

There is no reason to be scared of a rotary, you just have to be smart using one, and have a good feel for the machine before you go to town on your neighbors BMW.

 

Off topic but dose buffing your truck help alot because i got some small scraches and its a black truck, how many times a year do you buff. I just dont want to buff my truck and it rain the next day because everytime i wash it that happens then my tires get the nasty street mudd and water all over the body.

 

Have you heard of congressman Murphy? I think he is a legislator from your state.

 

I'd say that a rotary is different than a PC, not better or worse, just different. It has different characteristics - removes more severe defects, faster, heavier, has potential to burn paint, very easy to leave holograms. The PC is lighter, easier for a novice to use, slower, a little cheaper, easier to get a swirl-free finish.

Personally I think they both have their place and wouldn't use either exclusively. After you've lugged a rotary around for a couple hours polishing, do you really want to use it to put the wax on when the PC does just as good a job and weighs 1/2 as much? I also like to do a final coat of polish after I've used the rotary to get a nice swirl free finish. Sure people say they can get a totally swirl free finish with a rotary, but you gotta be damn good to do it. Save the rotary for the heavy hitting and use the PC for the easy stuff, that's what I say!

 

Thanks for the responses. When I do get a rotary I will practice and learn as much as I can before using it on a vehicle.

Kevin

 

It is a very effective way to remove problems from the paint but, as was previously said by Gip, use the least abrasive/aggressive way to remove the problem so that you lessen the likelihood of introducing more problems.

Like Gip, I will go to my PC 8 times out of 10 on client vehicles and find that it works perfectly well at getting rid of typical paint problems like light scuffs, swirls, and light scratching. I typically only have my rotary out when I'm compounding or if I'm working out wetsand marks. Simply put, I find that I'm able to accomplish just about as much with my PC as I am with my rotary when it comes to a 'standard' detail vehicle.

The rotary is a VERY powerful tool and *CAN* cause problems if you're not careful. Granted, today's modern clearcoated vehicles are a bit more forgiving than yesteryear's single-stage painted vehicles; you can get in a bind in a hurry with a rotary and, as such, you definitely need to practice up before jumping in, head first, into the shallow pool.

I've worked on at least two vehicles where the owner thought he could use a rotary and had to come to me to take care of the problems (pig tailing on both) that were introduced.

BTW, I removed some fairly harsh pig tailing off of both vehicles (a 200X GMC Truck and a 2005 Honda Accord) with the PC.

-RP-

 

Might want to look into the Harbor Freight polisher. Mine just got here the other day.

 

I just wish I had a PC, right now I have a rotary freakin elbow! SUCKS!