House Paint Transfer on car

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Old 08-22-2007 | 07:16 PM
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From: Keller Texas
House Paint Transfer on car

What a project. A buddy at work brought me a car to look at today. His wife backed out of their garage using the side of opening as the guide to get out. 8 feet of house pant transfered to the paint of the car. There is so much paint it was raised up.

I am going to work on this car after work on Thursday. The plan is to use a red megs pad and PB SSR3 then try and polish it out.

I think I am going to need some luck. Yes I know, photos would be good in this case, but I will post some befores tomrroow.
 
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Old 08-22-2007 | 08:02 PM
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From: DFW
Sweet. Have fun with that, and dont forget the pics, else you will find a fish under your hood!
 
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Old 08-22-2007 | 08:04 PM
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Ah-- just remembered-- Turtle Wax rubbing Compound or the Polishing compound are GREAT for removing paint transfer, but remember, you will be using something equivalent to #83 to remove the marring they cause. (Which means then using #80 or similar to undue the micromarring). If you need to use some, I have a bunch that I dont use often...
 
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Old 08-23-2007 | 12:22 AM
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Uhmmm... I'm not sure I'd go that route but, let me know how it turns out...

My worry -- that you burn more of the house paint into the finish rather than removing it.

Think about it... you have a contaminant ON TOP of the paint. Rather than work it inward, my thought would be on outright removal.

I'm not exactly sure what I'd try to get the gross contamination off the top of the paint but, I'm pretty certain that it'd involve a few phone calls to my local P&BS supply shop for some advice on thinners and other solvents that may help. Additionally, heat may help if it's a latex paint.

Clay would also be in my aresnal -- likely an aggressive bar.

Lastly, I'd polish for removal. There will be some that has bonded with the clear and will require this technique -- again though, I'd go with a high petroleum distillate content product (81 or 84 come to mind) in an effort to let the distillate (read: solvent) do some of the work.

Certain times call for certain action -- this is one of the times where I'd probably toss most of what I teach out the window and experiment within the boundaries of what the clear can take. I wouldn't pull out a vat of hexane and slather it on nor would I use a chlorinated solvent but, I would consider 'experimentation'.

I want before & afters and documented technique on this one for my records.
 
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Old 08-23-2007 | 12:27 AM
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From: DFW
I will say this though-- as we all know, the 2 TW products I mentioned are MORE HARSH than wet sanding...That said, they work GREAT on transfers. I have used it on my own, Fire trucks, my brothers Dodge (before he got a Volvo), my Dads F250 SD, my Moms XTerra, and a few friends cars for the same type of things (albeit auto paint transfer, plastic transfers from bumpers, or house paint, or even parking garage overhang paint.)

My preferred method is to start with the Polishing stuff first, and if it doesnt get through it fairly quickly, then to move up, back down, then S-X it to perfection.

Just my experience, though. Next time I get one of these, I will photodocument. And this will be in V2 of the Sticky.
 
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Old 08-23-2007 | 12:33 AM
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Ok guys, my confidence just went flaccid.

the paint is thick enought to be "raised" or you can feel it on top of the car paint.

So what I gather is that I should try and use 2 methods first.

1. Try using Goof off to remove the transfered paint
or
2. use the clay bar to remove what I can then go to the PoorBoys SSR3 (which is like a compund) then go to 2.5 or 2 or even 1 then pure polish.

How is that for plan?

BTW, the only clay I have is Megs Blue. Should I run and pick up a bar of Red?



Ryan do you want to come over and help me on Thursday? Provide a second set of eyes and advice? Say around 5 pm?
 

Last edited by RollingRock; 08-23-2007 at 12:35 AM.
  #7  
Old 08-23-2007 | 12:37 AM
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hmmm.... let me email you on that one.
 
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Old 08-23-2007 | 04:42 PM
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I stopped by the Body shop today...had a talk with the painter. Explained how much paint transfer there was, he said to use Lacquer Thiner to remove the transfered paint...wipe with water, then a good QD, clay then polish with mild compund (SSR3)

I will get some good before photos and afters and hope i don't jack the paint up worse than it already is.

JP

Nice to meet you Ryan...
 
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Old 08-23-2007 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RollingRock
Nice to meet you Ryan...
Same to you, Jason.

Originally Posted by RollingRock
I will get some good before photos and afters and hope i don't jack the paint up worse than it already is.
You better!!! Dont forget the Quarter shot. Just a thought... Use those QDs you dont like as the QD step.

RP-- Jason and I were talking about using SSR3 as a clay lube only on the affected area. Your thoughts???? We couldnt decide what would happen.
 
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Old 08-23-2007 | 08:43 PM
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Man you guys like to do it the hard way. Laquer thinner then re-wax for protection.
 
  #11  
Old 08-23-2007 | 09:55 PM
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From: Keller Texas
Ok, here goes

Before's









There's more
 
  #12  
Old 08-23-2007 | 09:58 PM
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After Lacquer thinner application

Note the marking....







Then I went after the marking with PoorBoys SSR3 and a Red Megs Cut pad
Followed by
SSR 2 with Yellow Lake
SSR 1 with Yellow Lake
PoorBoys Polish with Sealant
PoorBoys Nattys Blue
 
  #13  
Old 08-23-2007 | 10:00 PM
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From: Keller Texas
Afters







 
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Old 08-23-2007 | 10:00 PM
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Flip flops and cowboy boots... Good work JP

And tell John to get a Rolling Rock.
 

Last edited by Zaairman; 08-23-2007 at 10:02 PM.
  #15  
Old 08-23-2007 | 10:02 PM
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From: Keller Texas
A few more just for bragging



 



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