Stick with RollingRock

 

Sorry you had to read through that.....

 

I am a Varsity Soccer player, trying to get into some big name schools (namely the US Service Academies...), and trying to play on their teams, or at least the teams of another college.

What position did you play? You kinda remind me of a forward... Fairly small, probably wuick, and creative...

I play Outside Midfield... My favorite position. I only have to think of moving in one dimension, and only can pass in 3 directions... My job is easy... I just run a lot (hence the Cross Country Varsity position I hold...)

Any other takers?

 

HA!!! Thats what you think!!! Did I mention I would charge you 500 per coat for your diferential paint???!!!

 

I dunno what position RP played, but I do remember him saying that he was a pro referee or something like that... My sport has been working. Just wish it paid more...

 

color sanding a complete vehicle with 2000 grit that has been repainted by someone that knows what they are doing is a common and safe practice if you know what you are doing with the sandpaper, and the buffer.

color sanding a complete vehicle with a factory finish .. eh .. not always so safe.

as RP mentioned.. you didn't mention filling first when you talked about the sanding .. just because you know what you are doing, when you are giving advice in an open forum like this, you need to assume that the person you are giving advice to doesn't have that knowledge.. so what seems like common sense to you, may not be so obvious to them, and leaving simple things out of your comments can cause issue for someone that is trying to follow advice step by step.

Secondly .. as RP touched on . there are several steps between ScratchX and 2000 grit. Off the top of my head, I can't think of very many times where going from hand work to sandpaper is the correct answer. I would almost never recommend removing scratches with 2000 grit without first attemping defect repair with a machine and abrasive compound ..

Always use the least agressive method possible for defect removal.



and to answer RP's comments .. I was a powerlifter in college .. now I am a power eater

 

I told him to lightly wet sand and then polish. BTW I've seen a lot more paint jobs ruined by a buffer burning the paint than I have by light wet sanding with 2,000. But then what do I know, I've only had 30 or more personal cars and maybe another 1,000 that I bought and sold as a dealer.

 

We are all merely nothing to you Dr. F-O.

BTW, what kind of Dr. are you?
































































Proctologist by chance?

 

I mention doing some light wet sanding with super fine grit and you go off like I said to take to take a grinder to his truck. Whatever.

 

I paraphrased your attack on me and simply asked you a question.

EDIT, I think we beat this one down, I give you win. Extending an olive branch.

Truths? Firends? Amigos?

 

Yes.

 

THANK THE LORD!!! This thread was starting to get annoying...

 

it's all in the tools, and the ability .. using a DA and the correct compound is less abrasive than 2000 grit. just because the 8# hammer will fix the problem, doesn't mean hitting it with the 3# hammer twice isn't the better (less agressive) solution.



I was going to make a snide comment to match yours, but no need to keep beating this dead horse, ad I am not trying to be antagonistic about this.

the simple answer is the less aggressive method should be tried first.

 

We've rode this pony into the sunset.... thread closed.