New F150 2008
#17
10-29-2007, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kskr
Originally Posted by ThumperMX113
Damn, you're getting good with these mass emails! 
I should have been saving all the emails in a folder so when V2.1 comes out it would be easier to spread around... Oops.
#18
10-29-2007, 08:34 PM
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#20
10-29-2007, 08:54 PM
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I just read it and its great. But i have a few question for you(f-150sport03) my truck is brand new and its wax ( i waxed it) so do i have to remove the wax before claying and with what.
Here is the method i will use tell me if its good.
1) Wash the truck with a good shampoo (meguiars) and dry it
2) Claying the truck and wash it again and dry it again
3) Show car glaze 7 or pure polish
4) Put polymer sealant let it cure 15 hours
5) Meguiars yellow wax
Here is the method i will use tell me if its good.
1) Wash the truck with a good shampoo (meguiars) and dry it
2) Claying the truck and wash it again and dry it again
3) Show car glaze 7 or pure polish
4) Put polymer sealant let it cure 15 hours
5) Meguiars yellow wax
#21
10-29-2007, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Alain1
I just read it and its great. But i have a few question for you(f-150sport03) my truck is brand new and its wax ( i waxed it) so do i have to remove the wax before claying and with what.
Here is the method i will use tell me if its good.
1) Wash the truck with a good shampoo (meguiars) and dry it
2) Claying the truck and wash it again and dry it again
1) Wash the truck with a good shampoo (meguiars) and dry it
2) Claying the truck and wash it again and dry it again
Also, no need to wash and dry again. As you are claying, be wiping up the QD residue with your quality MF towels. Then, before you move on, I like to go over it all again with a fresh towel and QD.
3) Show car glaze 7 or pure polish
Megs #80 (or 82 if you prefer, or 83 if needed. 82/83 only via D/A, though)
Poorboys SSR series. I am not sure how these handle by hand, but they are GREAT via DA
Menzerna Intensive Polish/Final Polish (I havent used them, but hear good things, or DA as far as I know)
If you are looking for hand application of an A-line product: Step 1 of the DC system
Meguiars #9 (I love it)
After you remove the swirling/micromarring/hazing/etc, you can go on with your pure polish (ie: Step 2 of DC system, #7, etc). Remember, the prep work is what makes the biggest difference. A proper prep makes the other products work their best, so no skipping steps.
4) Put polymer sealant let it cure 15 hours
5) Meguiars yellow wax
Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. More costly, but holds up longer.
Nattys paste wax (one of the 3): looks phenomenal, not as durable, high cost
etc... There are a LOT more options, but these are the 3 biggest factors that I wanted you to be able to see how they differ in terms of use to you.
Please dont hesitate to ask any more questions!
Thanks for the kudos, BTW.
#22
10-29-2007, 09:45 PM
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#23
10-29-2007, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by f-150sport03
Yeah, you will want to remove the wax. I usually use Dawn to strip wax, but thats just me. Some others prefer not to. Some say clay will strip the wax for you, but I dont trust it do be perfect...
I wouldnt mess with drying it. The thing of it is, you are going to make the paint look gooy when you clay it, so its worth not wasting the time. UNLESS YOU HAVE BAD WATER!!! I have pretty nice water that wont thrash my paint in any short order, so I can get away with this...
Also, no need to wash and dry again. As you are claying, be wiping up the QD residue with your quality MF towels. Then, before you move on, I like to go over it all again with a fresh towel and QD.
Well, you can do this, however, you will want to have done some defect removal. You might look into something like an abrasive polish or a glaze. Some examples I can reccommend are as follows:
Megs #80 (or 82 if you prefer, or 83 if needed. 82/83 only via D/A, though)
Poorboys SSR series. I am not sure how these handle by hand, but they are GREAT via DA
Menzerna Intensive Polish/Final Polish (I havent used them, but hear good things, or DA as far as I know)
If you are looking for hand application of an A-line product: Step 1 of the DC system
Meguiars #9 (I love it)
After you remove the swirling/micromarring/hazing/etc, you can go on with your pure polish (ie: Step 2 of DC system, #7, etc). Remember, the prep work is what makes the biggest difference. A proper prep makes the other products work their best, so no skipping steps.
Whew! Thats a long time. Honestly, you have no reason to wait that long. I wait 8-12 hours, depending on the sealant and on the weather that day. Some sealants, though, (ie: PB Polish with sealant) only require 30 minutes before you can go on. Read the directions for the particular product you choose. If nothing else, ask us, and we will help
I am guessing you are referring to #26: High Tech Yellow Wax. It is GREAT stuff-- you will be hard pressed to find a proiduct that looks nearly as good for the price. Here are some more options for you, just in case:
Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. More costly, but holds up longer.
Nattys paste wax (one of the 3): looks phenomenal, not as durable, high cost
etc... There are a LOT more options, but these are the 3 biggest factors that I wanted you to be able to see how they differ in terms of use to you.
Please dont hesitate to ask any more questions!
Thanks for the kudos, BTW.
I wouldnt mess with drying it. The thing of it is, you are going to make the paint look gooy when you clay it, so its worth not wasting the time. UNLESS YOU HAVE BAD WATER!!! I have pretty nice water that wont thrash my paint in any short order, so I can get away with this...
Also, no need to wash and dry again. As you are claying, be wiping up the QD residue with your quality MF towels. Then, before you move on, I like to go over it all again with a fresh towel and QD.
Well, you can do this, however, you will want to have done some defect removal. You might look into something like an abrasive polish or a glaze. Some examples I can reccommend are as follows:
Megs #80 (or 82 if you prefer, or 83 if needed. 82/83 only via D/A, though)
Poorboys SSR series. I am not sure how these handle by hand, but they are GREAT via DA
Menzerna Intensive Polish/Final Polish (I havent used them, but hear good things, or DA as far as I know)
If you are looking for hand application of an A-line product: Step 1 of the DC system
Meguiars #9 (I love it)
After you remove the swirling/micromarring/hazing/etc, you can go on with your pure polish (ie: Step 2 of DC system, #7, etc). Remember, the prep work is what makes the biggest difference. A proper prep makes the other products work their best, so no skipping steps.
Whew! Thats a long time. Honestly, you have no reason to wait that long. I wait 8-12 hours, depending on the sealant and on the weather that day. Some sealants, though, (ie: PB Polish with sealant) only require 30 minutes before you can go on. Read the directions for the particular product you choose. If nothing else, ask us, and we will help
I am guessing you are referring to #26: High Tech Yellow Wax. It is GREAT stuff-- you will be hard pressed to find a proiduct that looks nearly as good for the price. Here are some more options for you, just in case:
Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. More costly, but holds up longer.
Nattys paste wax (one of the 3): looks phenomenal, not as durable, high cost
etc... There are a LOT more options, but these are the 3 biggest factors that I wanted you to be able to see how they differ in terms of use to you.
Please dont hesitate to ask any more questions!
Thanks for the kudos, BTW.
Thanks! really appreciate
#24
10-31-2007, 07:43 PM
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You might look into something like an abrasive polish or a glaze. Some examples I can reccommend are as follows:
Megs #80 (or 82 if you prefer, or 83 if needed. 82/83 only via D/A, though)
Poorboys SSR series. I am not sure how these handle by hand, but they are GREAT via DA
Menzerna Intensive Polish/Final Polish (I havent used them, but hear good things, or DA as far as I know)
If you are looking for hand application of an A-line product: Step 1 of the DC system
Meguiars #9 (I love it)
Do i really need a abrasive polish because my truck is brand new and by the way does the seal and glaze from mothers can work for a seal because i cant find something else. I leave in a little town up north in quebec and its hard to find all the products you really need but hey guess what i found some meguiars 9 yesterday.
Thanks!
Megs #80 (or 82 if you prefer, or 83 if needed. 82/83 only via D/A, though)
Poorboys SSR series. I am not sure how these handle by hand, but they are GREAT via DA
Menzerna Intensive Polish/Final Polish (I havent used them, but hear good things, or DA as far as I know)
If you are looking for hand application of an A-line product: Step 1 of the DC system
Meguiars #9 (I love it)
Do i really need a abrasive polish because my truck is brand new and by the way does the seal and glaze from mothers can work for a seal because i cant find something else. I leave in a little town up north in quebec and its hard to find all the products you really need but hey guess what i found some meguiars 9 yesterday.
Thanks!
#25
10-31-2007, 07:45 PM
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#27
10-31-2007, 10:25 PM
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#28
10-31-2007, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Alain1
Do i really need a abrasive polish because my truck is brand new
does the seal and glaze from mothers can work for a seal because i cant find something else.
i found some meguiars 9 yesterday.
#29
10-31-2007, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ramnj
Originally Posted by ws6_guyscrew
Originally Posted by neuler
#30
10-31-2007, 11:44 PM
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