What is the best buffer out there?

It sounds like the Megs G 100? Who has the best price?

 

ask ten diffrent people and might get three diffrent answers....

one the porter cable

two porter cable g 100 lifetime warranty

then the other, rotary

.....its a joke


the best for what??? what skill level do you enter the game with??? its all subjectional...if you know someone that will teach you in person...learn from them and pick thier mind...they all take some skill to learn how to use to the best ability

 

autodetalingsolutions.com has an awesome kit.

Kevin

 

I do want to learn the high speed. Drive up and bring your rig.

Which one do you have BTW? I feel like shopping.

 

for a DA. . i prefer the G100

for a Rotary, my latest toy is a DeWalt 849. I replaced my old Makita with it, and have been very pleased.

If you are Popeye .. you can go with a Cyclo .. (man, those things make my forearms ache)


as troberts mentioned .. it depends on your skill level, and what you want to accomplish .. the DA will help you take care of your vehicle .. if you want to do minor defect removal, it will also work .. if you want to do major defect removal, then you will need a rotary .. just make sure you practice on your ex's car first, if you have never used one before.

 

had dewalt...now have makita...little shorter, seems lighter, and the D shape handle gives alot of options for changing hand positions rather than the dewalt and the screw in peg handle. the speed control seems a little better on the makita to me also??? could be that the dewalt was getting old when i got the mikita.

and rolling rock if you really want to learn, we are about 8 months out on the next build...a 53 ford f100. it will be color sanded. thats when you can see and learn the most with a rotary.

 

I guess you could say beginer

 

Here's my take on your question. Go with the DA. I'll be so bold to say that it is safe enough to take out of the box and go right to work, as long as a little research and prep work has been done beforehand. That means proper cleaning, claying if necessary, and some thorough reading about pad and polish selection that you can get right here on this forum.

As for a rotary, I only got one about eight months ago after tiring of standing in awe of the guys who could use one efficiently. It takes skill and practice to use one without causing more problems than you are trying to fix. I limit my use of it to defect correction that can't be accomplished by using the DA.

.........but then, that's the way it should be. I say that because I believe wholeheartedly in RockPick's opinion that the least aggressive method should be used in any process.

What I've come to realize is that zero-swirl comes at a price. That price is CC layer. I've found it's far better to utilize products that remove as many scratches and swirls as possible and then go with fillers to mask the rest.

If you're talking about bringing out the ultimate finish on a show car that will be stored and not subjected to the elements, that's something entirely different. If you're talking about a daily driver that you want to keep looking good, regardless of what you do, you're gonna get more of what you just removed the last time.......so, save a little of your paint for the next detail.

Make sense?

 

I do have a body shop near my house, know the guy, thinking of asking him for a door here and there to play with.

 

Dixie - that is an awesome post! Thanks for your input!

 

i use a low speed orbital 7 inch right angle i got it from sears for like 30$.

 

Agreed.

I wont tackle you on this one... Someone else can (I already was a bit harsh on your other thread...Not trying to be mean or rude, but I think you want to know what we know... just trying to hlp. Let me know if you want my comments to stop.)


Hmmm... For the potential rotary? SWEET!!! I might have to come play... I am really good at making micromarring for you to remove for practice...

If nothing else, I will try to bring the SuperDuty and we can tackle that with the rotary...it will need at least that much oomph. (well, it could be done with 2 passes of SSR 3 and a red Megs pad on speed 6, maybe...)

 

Sorry to bring this up again, i thought I might have that high speed but when I looked in the tool chest it was a angle grinder. I bought it a few years ago for a project...looks like i may be looking for for one of these DW or Mak....

Cheers from Hot Springs AR

JP

 

Dont forget about the "Ultimate Detailing Machine"...........

 

This is a post that many who read are displeased with me. I also used the Sears orbital for years. With so many detail affectionados singing their praise of the Porter-Cable I bought up to the PC with all the heads, cloth covers, rubber pads, etc. I found that each, the Sears and PC had points in each favor making them come out about even. One thing I miss on the PC is a dead-man switch. One thing I miss on the SEARs is a better handle to grasp the orbital. A good point for the PC is the change of speed switch. Sears had one speed only.

The PC has a greater choice of screw on heads, of which I have chosen the thick sponge rubber head covered with a terry cloth bonnet. I originally used the orange colored microfiber cover, however, I found the orange microfibers were approx ½" smaller than 6" as advertised. This occured on two orders of the microfibers. The smaller size squeezed the sponge rubber head thus causing a wrinkle in the head/cover, thus having this wrinkle twirl around on my paint.

I never have swirls in my finished wax job as I do the extra mile with muscle power. I tried putting my carnuba was on with an orbital, but the wax flew off the pad, whether I placed the wax on the pad or on the paint. I put my wax on by hand, plus this allows my method of keeping the wax off the black trim much easier. After the wax is applied and dried I use terry cloth wash cloths on the paint and under the PC or Sears terry cloth cover. For touch up around lights, trim, I use the naked terry cloth cover. The use of a terry cloth wash cloth allows changing wash cloths when they get clogged/full of wax, allowing switching to a fresh clean cloth. To insure no swirls I finish off the wax job with a hand powered terry cloth hand towel. I use a Sharpie to number sections of the hand towel so I know which section of the hand towel is used or fresh.

Having some experience in the last 40 years with paint enhancement I have concluded that trying to finish off with a sheepskin orbital pad gets very expensive as the wax buildup causes the owner to possess several sheepskin pads that loose their softness after several washings. And using a sheepskin as the last polishing step takes off a lot of the wax that hopefully would remain on the paint.

Comments, please.....