Thanks for the comments. Yes, I'm glad I went ahead and did it right, I'll blame temporary insanity for even considering not doing it. How some of you guys get this done in day or two is beyond me. I spent two weeks on the last car and about week when I last did the truck. Thankfully this one spent a week in the garage, but only about 3 1/2 days worth of attention. The waiting 12 hours thing is tough. Anyhow, the car looks much better, even after just 170 miles. Finished all this up early Saturday morning and we took it out Saturday night, like always it rained. Then sleeted, then snowed, great feeling driving over salt knowing I had it all sealed up.

The 845 makes very small beads once water hits it.

Another note...cleaning the pad I used to apply the 845 was interesting. After using extremely hot water for 10 minutes I gave up and just pitched the pad. I guess using Micro Restore, vinegar, etc would break it down, but it was just a $2 mf pad so no big loss.

Thump/ddwello - did you guys get the IUP with the silver AC/heater vents? I've been looking everywhere for a set of black vents, the silvers just don't do it for me.

 

Can't tell you, Scorpio -- my car isn't here yet. I do know from surfing various Mustang forums that quite a few guys have been swapping the various configurations of that part around on their cars. It shouldn't be too hard to do if you want to.

By the way, if I remember correctly, you have the Harley heads on your F-150 (?). One of these days I'm going to breakdown and add them to mine as well -- what is involved in removing the existing heads and installing the Harleys?

 

Yup, I've got the IUP. Sorry ..

 

Seems most guys want the black. Ford wants $45/vent or you can get a center panel with two vents for $70. I even tried my trucks vents in there but they're slightly too deep.

I Have the Depo headlights, well currently I have ONE installed, the other is sitting on the living room floor drying out for the second time. It needs another bead of sealant. If you get anything go with the OEM lights. As fara as what's involded to swap them. A philips screwdriver, and a 10mm socket. Undo a screw holding a weather strip, undo 3 bolts, pull straight out, undo 3 bulbs, install in reverse order. Should take all of 15 minutes.

 

You're talking to a man who plunked down $200.00+ for a second set of TPMS monitors so I could keep my factory rim and tire set-up intact -- I wouldn't even flinch at $45.00 a pop for vents!

Seriously, when I created the budget for this car, I built in enough money to go get all the initial "goodies" I wanted right off the bat -- I figured after years of saving, I was going to make sure I could get the car set-up exactly how I wanted it in short order. I'll have to think about the different colored vents after the car gets here and I see how they look.......

I've heard most of the aftermarket Harleys are leakers -- I'll definitely plop down the coin for the OEMs......

 

Some will shun this thought but, I've been using it for years and it works fantastically well - even on synthetics and a heavy-duty carnuba...

Murphy's Wood Oil Soap

It seems to break down just about any polish and/or LSP that I've tossed at it. The con is that it will go to work on the glue that holds on the velcro backing of some polishing pads. I've never seen it zap the glue but, I have read where some have experienced it.

My procedure is to take the pad, 1) immerse it in hot water by 'squishing' out the air in the foam pad so that the pad fills with water. 2) add about a quarter-sized dollup of Murphy's. 3) work the Murphy's into the pad paying close attention to the outer circumference of the pad as the products will tend to 'dry' a bit more in and around this region on the pad. 4) re-immerse the pad in the water and squish the Murphy's out. 5) In bath of fresh hot water (non-Murphy's contaminated), I'll final rinse.

The pad will have the slight odor of Murphy's - very slight - but, the product is gone and the pad should look very near new.

Here lately, I've been using more of a dedicated pad system. In short, this pad for product A and ONLY for product A. When I need to dust the pad, I'll either hit it with my angle brush:



or, if using my rotary, may pull out the ole' Duospur:



Either method will help to refresh the pad and remove much of the gunked up product held within the pad. Mind you, the spur works best on wool pads and the brush works best on foam -- either method can THRASH a pad in a jiffy if you're not careful - trust me. LOL!

-RP-

 

Yep, read about the Murphy's here and it does work...even on pads with 5 month old product dried on them Let's just say when I set something aside to dry out I like to make sure it's really dry At least I didn't rebag them wet.

 

I too do the Murphy's soap trick but I also put them back on the DA and wrap a towel around it place over a 5gal bucket and turn it on to sling out the water. I let it run for 15-20 seconds then place the pad on a towel in my house to air dry before I put up for storage.

 

Or, if you're tee-totally gung-ho on pad cleaning...

Use the SYSTEM 2000 PADWASHER!



Interesting little video here: http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/padclean.html

Looks nifty. Not $130 nifty though.