Scratch Xing my whole truck and putting 2 coats of NXT wax on by hand is making my arm hurt just thinking about it. Should I invest in a power polisher? I've heard they are bad for the paint. And would I have to push the polisher down hard or just let it glide across my paint while I apply these products?

 

check out autopia.com. some very nice info on that site. if you are looking to get a radom orbiter I highly suggest a porter cable. I have had mine for over 3 years now and love it! once you get it you will then need to get yourself some good pads and backing plate.

 

Any tool in the hands of a person with blatant disregard for how it is to be used can cause damage...

Think about it. Tools are made for a purpose and the tool that you've described is no different.

Power Polishers (as you call them) are VERY VERY common within the automotive detailing world and are VERY safe when used correctly. I'm not sure how they can be 'bad' for paint unless used incorrectly. Most folks will utilize a polisher for two purposes - 1) to remove defects from the paint (i.e.: swirls, light scratching, light oxidation, etc) or 2) to apply last step products. There certainly are exceptions to this rule but, as a whole, that's the general use.

That said, let's discuss a few varieties of polishers, the philosophies behind them and their typical uses...

1) Orbital - This is that big, clumsy, hard to handle, thing that you can pick up on the bottom shelf at your local Wal-Mart. They produce low RPMs and don't have enough oompah to really help any paint problem. What they can do is apply most last step products (ie: waxes). That's about it. They are typically not capable of problem removal as they don't generate enough RPMs and/or don't have enough oompah (weak motors) to really make it happen.

2) Random Orbit / Dual-Action - This is considered by most as the 'standard' for most folks to have/own from a light commercial to home-user type of person. I have two of them and I detail on the side professionally. They're an extremely effective machine to use to remove light oxidation, swirls, and other minor paint problems - which, as I find in my work, is about 90% of what will show up to have a detail completed on their vehicle. In turn, it's my opinion that probably 99% of people who are genuinely interested in keeping their vehicle up or want to save time with LSP application (or polishing) can use this tool VERY effectively and VERY safely.

It will operate at a higher RPM and has a stronger motor but, unless you're nearly intentionally trying to hurt your paint (ie: putting the pad on a dirty floor), you're highly unlikely to cause any problems. Mind you, this machine is used with other products like polishes and waxes - not just a foam pad.

3) Rotary - This is a machine that, in my opinion, should only be used by someone who is pretty versed in paint care. While, again, you will have to be kind of a buffoon to cause problems, the bottom line is that this machine has enough power to break your arm and, in turn, can certainly THRASH your paint. Think of this thing as a power grinder. I use this on client vehicles but, I will say, it's infrequent. This is probably not the best 'entry-level' type of tool for most jobs.

4) Cyclo & others - There are several other types of machines out there that I haven't addressed. A Cyclo uses a 'dual-pad' system to accomplish the same type of results with the power of a rotary. Some love these things, some hate them. They are effective but, again, only in the hands of someone who knows the machine, knows paint systems, and knows what they're doing, in general.

All of that said, I'd highly recommend checking into a dual-action polisher (aka: a PC (Porter Cable), a DA (dual-action polisher), a G100 (Meguiar's version of the Porter Cable DA made by Porter Cable with a lifetime warranty).

Check out www.autodetailingsolutions.com for a very good deal on the G-100 with everything that you need to get started with polishing and/or waxing (including a backing plate, pads, and, of course, the G-100 with a lifetime warranty).

Many of us here can really get into some deeper philosophies about each of the aforementioned machines but, in the spirit of feeding my daughter in a few short minutes, I'm going to refrain. I'll leave it with, "if you have questions, ask...".

Enjoy!

RP

 

Wow! Thanks for all the info RockPick. Im gonna go with what u suggested. Probably wont be detailing for another couple weeks due to the weather and surgery but ill get pics as soon as I can! Thanks

 

I dont mean to bitch you out, but that really is not good forum practice... Especially when there is a sticky at the top of the page that covers this sort of thing. (not to mention the search feature). Ordinarily, I dont mind it when people reference other forums, or provide links-- HOWEVER, when you completely avoid answering the question only to send users to another forum, that is really bad etiquitte (call it manners if you would rather).

In answer to the OP-- I was starting to type my response, then I peeked at what RP said... all I have to say is that I agree 100%. But I would like to add that it depends on how often you intend to polish it. I say this because the polish is where the dual action comes in handy. Although you *can* use a DA for applying and removing wax, I dont reccommend it for 3 reasons:
1. it is a waste of product (DA pads soak up a LOT of product in comparison to a foam applicator)
2. it offers no advantage. Though it does save your arms a trifle, you shouldnt have to be working in wax-- it need only be on there.
3. When removing with a DA (foam pad + MF bonnet), the bonnets tend to load VERY quickly, thus you begin to run a high risk of thrashing the paint.

For Scratch-X, a DA is rather effective, and even more so when using the more fun products (ie: #80, PB SSR series, etc).

SO-- if you are only going to do the S-X once, I do NOT reccommend it. However, if you are planning on maintaining your finish over the course of a couple of years mimumum, I strongly encourage you rto go ahead and check it out. RockPick's reccomendation for the website is the consensus here-- very affordable, the best customer service out there-- good deal all the way around.

That help any?

 

I just finished up my big detail for the winter and agree with f150 sport about applying waxes/sealants with a DA...when i washed my pads out i had so much product in them it was crazy...and i had the red finishing pad from lake country applying my 26..i think there was more in the sink than was on my truck...however, it is a time saver for sure. A big problem i have is applying my waxes/sealants on too thick..when really you just need to get it on the surface...about the bonnets...i used one and found that they are also a big time saver but f150 is right..they accumulate too much too quickly...but i will offer this strategy....if you dont mind wasting a little to save you some time...apply it with the DA then remove it by hand with a QUALITY MF towel...the g100 applies the LSP so thin that you really dont even need the bonnet..you can remove the excess with a single wipe i would highly recommend this but it does hurt ya a little to see literally money going down your kitchen sink

 

yeah, i forgot there was a sticky. i have not been on this forum enough yet to know where everything is yet. but, i gave him that ref. because that is really all that is discussed over there. Figured he would get some great knowledge from that site

 

You're very welcome. Glad to have helped a tad.

 

Cool beans. (Man, I must have been in a bad mood when I typed my prev. post... I just reread it...)