I Must Be Doing Something Wrong
#16
01-01-2008 | 09:35 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: Cypress, TX
Originally Posted by RockPick
I guess it boils down to a 'do as I say, not as I do...' since this will go against a constant pressure paradigm but, I will, if the marring is light or the swirls are very light, basically let the downward pressure of the machine do the work...
Of course, at that point in time, I'm working with a VERY light cut product and typically some type of finishing pad (hence, VERY VERY light cut all the way around).
As I know you'll agree, Doug, the best way is to tinker around a bit and be patient. Slower passes and more patience always yields the best results... right guys?
-RP-
Of course, at that point in time, I'm working with a VERY light cut product and typically some type of finishing pad (hence, VERY VERY light cut all the way around).
As I know you'll agree, Doug, the best way is to tinker around a bit and be patient. Slower passes and more patience always yields the best results... right guys?
-RP-
patience is always a good thing.
#17
01-01-2008 | 10:01 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 0
From: Northeast PA.
I agree... many, many variables.
To be honest, I'm not the worlds biggest "PC" fan... too many years behind a rotary causes me to loose my patience with a PC because of the amount of time and effort required... but that's a subject for another thread.
Anyhow, as a general rule with a PC, if one can notice the swirls or imperfections rather easily, I would give the following recommendations:
1. Use a light cutting pad to start - won't hurt with a PC, and it will "git-er-done" faster.
2. Use a mid-range polish like #80, SSR 2.5, Mothers Power Polish or similar.
3. Work a 24 X 24 area at a speed of 5 (spread product at 2 or 3)
4. Move the buffer over that EXTREMELY slowly in back and forth direction first across the entire 24 X 24 area, up and down next, and finish in a diagonal manner, overlapping each pass by 50% until the product starts to become translucent. Of course, if the product becomes translucent somewhere in that process... stop and remove it.
5. Check the area with an ISO wipe down. If it has improved, but still doesn't measure up... repeat the above.
6. If you don't see good results after two complete passes, you'll need to step up in pad/product aggressiveness (or buy a rotary
) and start all over working a smaller area.
7. It takes time, patience, a good "feel", and a good "eye".
To be honest, I'm not the worlds biggest "PC" fan... too many years behind a rotary causes me to loose my patience with a PC because of the amount of time and effort required... but that's a subject for another thread.
Anyhow, as a general rule with a PC, if one can notice the swirls or imperfections rather easily, I would give the following recommendations:
1. Use a light cutting pad to start - won't hurt with a PC, and it will "git-er-done" faster.
2. Use a mid-range polish like #80, SSR 2.5, Mothers Power Polish or similar.
3. Work a 24 X 24 area at a speed of 5 (spread product at 2 or 3)
4. Move the buffer over that EXTREMELY slowly in back and forth direction first across the entire 24 X 24 area, up and down next, and finish in a diagonal manner, overlapping each pass by 50% until the product starts to become translucent. Of course, if the product becomes translucent somewhere in that process... stop and remove it.
5. Check the area with an ISO wipe down. If it has improved, but still doesn't measure up... repeat the above.
6. If you don't see good results after two complete passes, you'll need to step up in pad/product aggressiveness (or buy a rotary
) and start all over working a smaller area. 7. It takes time, patience, a good "feel", and a good "eye".
#18
01-01-2008 | 10:14 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,812
Likes: 0
From: Keller Texas
Originally Posted by Boss_429
I agree... many, many variables.
To be honest, I'm not the worlds biggest "PC" fan... too many years behind a rotary causes me to loose my patience with a PC because of the amount of time and effort required... but that's a subject for another thread.
Anyhow, as a general rule with a PC, if one can notice the swirls or imperfections rather easily, I would give the following recommendations:
1. Use a light cutting pad to start - won't hurt with a PC, and it will "git-er-done" faster.
2. Use a mid-range polish like #80, SSR 2.5, Mothers Power Polish or similar.
3. Work a 24 X 24 area at a speed of 5 (spread product at 2 or 3)
4. Move the buffer over that EXTREMELY slowly in back and forth direction first across the entire 24 X 24 area, up and down next, and finish in a diagonal manner, overlapping each pass by 50% until the product starts to become translucent. Of course, if the product becomes translucent somewhere in that process... stop and remove it.
5. Check the area with an ISO wipe down. If it has improved, but still doesn't measure up... repeat the above.
6. If you don't see good results after two complete passes, you'll need to step up in pad/product aggressiveness (or buy a rotary ) and start all over working a smaller area.
7. It takes time, patience, a good "feel", and a good "eye".
To be honest, I'm not the worlds biggest "PC" fan... too many years behind a rotary causes me to loose my patience with a PC because of the amount of time and effort required... but that's a subject for another thread.
Anyhow, as a general rule with a PC, if one can notice the swirls or imperfections rather easily, I would give the following recommendations:
1. Use a light cutting pad to start - won't hurt with a PC, and it will "git-er-done" faster.
2. Use a mid-range polish like #80, SSR 2.5, Mothers Power Polish or similar.
3. Work a 24 X 24 area at a speed of 5 (spread product at 2 or 3)
4. Move the buffer over that EXTREMELY slowly in back and forth direction first across the entire 24 X 24 area, up and down next, and finish in a diagonal manner, overlapping each pass by 50% until the product starts to become translucent. Of course, if the product becomes translucent somewhere in that process... stop and remove it.
5. Check the area with an ISO wipe down. If it has improved, but still doesn't measure up... repeat the above.
6. If you don't see good results after two complete passes, you'll need to step up in pad/product aggressiveness (or buy a rotary
) and start all over working a smaller area. 7. It takes time, patience, a good "feel", and a good "eye".
Hey F150Sprot....does this sound familiar?
4. Move the buffer over that EXTREMELY slowly in back and forth direction first across the entire 24 X 24 area, up and down next, and finish in a diagonal manner, overlapping each pass by 50% until the product starts to become translucent. Of course, if the product becomes translucent somewhere in that process... stop and remove it.
Boss, check your PM's
JP
