I'm about to detail my truck ('05 F150 Screw) for the first time on my own. The paints probably not in great condition as it hasn't been waxed in quite awhile (probably over a year). I've read the detailing sticky and have decided upon a process to use, but wanted some insight/confirmation that I'm on the right path before moving forward. Also have some questions about the process as I've noted in the plan below (by the way, I'm doing everything by hand the first time):

1. Wash using Megs Gold Class (planning on using the two-bucket method with Grit Guards, but haven't actually been able to find an explanation of exactly how to do it. Any links to a procedure - I know it sounds simple, but want to make sure...)
2. Simple Green for the wheels/tires
3. Clay Bar Treatment using Megs Smooth Surface Clay Kit
4. Cleaning with Megs #80 (I'm wondering here whether I should go ahead and use the #83 first and then follow up with the #80 considering how long it's been since it's been properly cleaned conditioned)
5. Polishing with Megs #7
6. Synthetic wax with NXT 2.0 (It seems the synthetic is more durable, but leaves a saran wrap appearance. I've seen decent comments on here about the new 2.0 product - should I use 1 or 2 coats?)
7. Carnauba Wax with #26 (I'd like to do this after the Synthetic to enrich and deepen the paint color which is black)
8. Hyper-dressing for tires, etc.

One of my main questions is the timeframe for waxing. I believe I can get all the way through the first coat of synthetic in one day, but I know it requires 12 hours to cure (overnight) before adding an additional coat of synthetic or moving onto the carnauba. Due to this, I'm probably going to have to drive the car to and from work before I can apply the next coat; does this cause significant problems for the next application. Do I need to repeat any steps to prepare the paint for the next coat?

Thanks for the help and comments!

 

WHat color is your truck? And do you have any pictures of the current condition of the paint?

The pros on here will be able to chime in better then I can in if you need to do the #83 first or do 2-3 pass with #80.

If you drive the truck between the coat of NXT and applying the #26 I would wash the truck again with the Meg's Gold wash. Some might say if there is not a lot of dirt then use a quick detailer but I am a little scared of them.

 

I apologize to the person who wrote this post as I forgot to copy the name when I moved to a personal document for future reference. Anyway, here you go.

"I will explain the method I use most often.

I start with two buckets, and two chenile wash mitts. one brand new, and the other from my previous wash.

I fill one bucket with water and Meguiars gold class car shampoo .. the other with plain water ..

after getting the truck thoroughly wet, I take the new was mitt, and dunk it in the soapy bucket, and start at the top of the car, washing a small area of the truck, with the size of area based on how dirty the truck is, using a straight back and forth motion. then I will rinse the area.

I then take the mitt and dunk it in the bucket of plain water, and rinse the soap and dirt out of the mitt, including rubbing the mitt on my grit guard.

I will do the top half of the truck using the new mitt, then set it aside (saving it for my next wash, as the bottom half mitt), and use the old mitt for the bottom half of the truck, following the same procedure .. I will dump and refill my bucket of plain water as necessary to keep it from getting too dirty. I will do the wheels last .. the throw this mitt away, or save it for use in a rescue operation..

the idea behind the two buckets and the two mitts is to minimize the chances that dirt, grit, sand, etc will get caught in your mitt, or suspended in your wash water, possibly scratching or damaging your paint .."

Here is a good video on how to wash a car, http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...ch&p lindex=0

 

Thanks for the responses guys. That's about what I figured on the two bucket method. I like the idea of one new mitt and and one that's been used once for the bottom. You mentioned chenille, I've seen in other posts that sheepskin is better. Are there pros/cons to either. I imagine as long as it's not abrasive, neither is going to make a huge difference in the washing step.

Can anyone tell me how to post a pic? I don't think I'm allowed to post attachments, does that have something to do with the number of posts I have? In any case, my truck is two-tone black on tan.

 

I use Chenille, its good to use on paint...here is a little OCD thing I do when washing.

1. I have a bucket with a big W on in and one with a big R on it. W...ash, R...inse.

2. After I touch the Wash side to the paint, before I put in the R bucket I squeeze the excess water off the sponge (mitt) before putting in the R.

Then I rinse that section of truck, then wet the next area to be washed. I think take the sponge from the R bucket and ring it out....then drop it back in the W bucket. Wait a few seconds and get it saturated. Then wash the next section.

Then Repeat.

I do not do the rocker panels until the last part of the wash as they tend to be the dirtiest. Its just what I do, it may not work for you.

How to post a pic? Best thing around here is to open a Photobucket account, its free, then upload your photos to that site and post the link here.

Magic....

 

Actually, if you're not familar with photobucket and resizing photographs, we suggest that you use a free f150online.com photo gallery...

https://www.f150online.com/galleries/new.cfm

Once you've got your pics uploaded to your f150online.com gallery, follow the this simple instruction:

Once you have the pics up and running, click on the photo that you want, on the bottom right corner, there's a 'Fourm Codes' link. Click that.

You get a popup screen with the 'code' already built in so that you can post the picture from that popup. Highlight and copy and paste that text (be it for the full size or thumbnail size) into your post... hit POST REPLY... presto. A picture!

I hope that helps...

Now, with regards for detailing your BLACK paint, I'd forgo the #83. My personal opinion about #83 is that it's not one that many will need to use for their problems and, in many cases, may yield more problems in the hands of an inexperienced person with a DA -- now, I'm not implying that you can't do it or that you're inexperienced... what I am implying is that #83 is VERY finicky on a PC and, in my professional opinion, is a tad too abrasive to really be used effectively on the PC. Let's put it this way, I rarely use it.

That said, I'd go with multiple passes with the #80 as it breaks down much nicer, has much less opportunity for you to introduce more problems into the black paint (black is a booger and a special beast that we all must respect), and then assess. Be patient with the #80... if you only have mild problems, it *will* deal with them.... again, patience.

As for 'significant' problems between coats, nah... probably not. Naturally, I'd recommend that you make certain that the paint that you're going to apply the second coat to is 100% clean... this means that you'll probably want to move forward with a 'quick' wash and light dry. Do your wash procedure as many have mentioned above (in short, don't short cut much) and then apply.

It's another step but, by default, most of us are going to be very conservative when it comes to *not* recommending a step that may or may not be helpful.

Feel free to ask if there are additional questions and, we won't let you off the hook without before and after pictures!

-RP-

 

I got some pictures taken last night, but they're not great quality. The truck is dirty as sin and I was in a poorly lit parking garage. I don't know how much a trained eye can tell from a picture this dirty, but I figured I'd post anyways. I'm going to take Rock Pick's suggestion and forego the #83 and instead work with multiple passes of the #80. Supplies were ordered last night from ADS and are shipping today (anyone have any idea how long they'll take to get from Phoenix to Houston?). If the weather improves here, I'll try to get some better before pics and with any luck, I'll knock out the process over the weekend if the job allows (crossing my fingers that the supplies get here by Friday). I'll be sure to post after pics when I'm finished and will probably post questions throughout the process. Thanks again for all of the advice.

 

Hard to tell much from the pics...

I'm not saying that #83 isn't the way to go but, what I am saying is that it's kind of tough to work with on the PC and will likely involve 'several' passes with #80 to clean up the marring that #83 *could* cause.

 

One very important thing is doing a test spot. Mike Phillips over at Meguiars on-line says this all the time and he's right.

Tape off a small spot about 16 by 16 inches. Do a couple passes with #80 and a 8006 Megs polishing pad. If it's not getting anywhere then you can move up to #83. Rock Pick is right about it being finicky with a PC but it can be done. The follow up with #80 and your LSP. At least with a test spot you can dial in a process.

Tic