Broke a backing plate. What?
#1
Broke a backing plate. What?
So I was polishing away, at slightly less than 6. I turned off the DA, and go to set it down to get more product. The pad and backing plate fell off.
It looks like the plastic from the plate got really hot and just melted right off. It separated in a pentagon shape where the bolt is.
It was pretty hot at the time, but wow. I wasn't using any pressure what so ever. Any ideas?
Tony
It looks like the plastic from the plate got really hot and just melted right off. It separated in a pentagon shape where the bolt is.
It was pretty hot at the time, but wow. I wasn't using any pressure what so ever. Any ideas?
Tony
#3
#6
Talked to Scott at SM (where I got the plate.)
He said that Speed 6 is what he uses all the time when he is polishing. When RR and I did my truck, we used 6 with the pro-polish, and the last two cars I did myself I used speed 6 (until the plate broke.)
Scott said that it should not have broken. He is sending me a new plate and will be sending the broken one back to the manufacturer.
For those wary of trying speed 6 with polish, I'd say do it. It makes a big difference in shine.
He said that Speed 6 is what he uses all the time when he is polishing. When RR and I did my truck, we used 6 with the pro-polish, and the last two cars I did myself I used speed 6 (until the plate broke.)
Scott said that it should not have broken. He is sending me a new plate and will be sending the broken one back to the manufacturer.
For those wary of trying speed 6 with polish, I'd say do it. It makes a big difference in shine.
#7
Originally Posted by attworth
For those wary of trying speed 6 with polish, I'd say do it. It makes a big difference in shine.
In my opinion... that is VERY poor advice.
There are literally thousands of polishing products out there on the market and very few will actually require the need for the PC to be set on 6. In fact, you risk actually causing quite a bit of a problem by using certain polishes on 6 versus a 4 or even 3.5.
Make sure you know the ins' and outs' before you make a blanket statement like that, attworth. Not trying to call you out here but, this is the type of statement that causes some people tremendous problems rather than helping them out.
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#8
Originally Posted by RockPick
In my opinion... that is VERY poor advice.
There are literally thousands of polishing products out there on the market and very few will actually require the need for the PC to be set on 6. In fact, you risk actually causing quite a bit of a problem by using certain polishes on 6 versus a 4 or even 3.5.
Make sure you know the ins' and outs' before you make a blanket statement like that, attworth. Not trying to call you out here but, this is the type of statement that causes some people tremendous problems rather than helping them out.
There are literally thousands of polishing products out there on the market and very few will actually require the need for the PC to be set on 6. In fact, you risk actually causing quite a bit of a problem by using certain polishes on 6 versus a 4 or even 3.5.
Make sure you know the ins' and outs' before you make a blanket statement like that, attworth. Not trying to call you out here but, this is the type of statement that causes some people tremendous problems rather than helping them out.
Let me rephrase and say that using a PC on Speed 6 with a White Lake CEVC pad and PB's Pro-Polish has yielded great results for me.
#9
Personally i dont run a PC much at speed 6...i do it at speed 5....and make no mistake about it i am nobody to challenge the elders here...but Rockpick, i am interested in learning more on a polish removing defects at speed 3.5....and with the limited power of a PC, wouldnt that just take forever and a day to fully break the polish down? Please explain more.....im very interested
#10
I like #9 at 3.5 as it's not so much 'removing' the problem as it is filling the problem. I actually learned this subtle trick from one of the guys at Meguiar's while out there in training when I was helping with MOL. It's a little bit more pressure (slight) and a slower speed... the filling products, in my opinion, tend to work slightly better and require fewer passes, IMO.
That said, #9 is just about the only product that I think you can get away with doing that with... Maybe #81...
That said, #9 is just about the only product that I think you can get away with doing that with... Maybe #81...
#11
#12
#13
I'm not a #9 fan so much either but, it does have a place. I prefer not to conceal but, there are instances where I've found it necessary - and even advantageous.
Like you, I like the polishing oils in it as it really does add a nice deep gloss but, #7 will do the same with less worries IMO.
Like you, I like the polishing oils in it as it really does add a nice deep gloss but, #7 will do the same with less worries IMO.
#14
Originally Posted by RockPick
I like #9 at 3.5 as it's not so much 'removing' the problem as it is filling the problem. I actually learned this subtle trick from one of the guys at Meguiar's while out there in training when I was helping with MOL. It's a little bit more pressure (slight) and a slower speed... the filling products, in my opinion, tend to work slightly better and require fewer passes, IMO.
#15
Originally Posted by ThumperMX113
I wish you would of told me this when I first started out. I had to learn this on my own and it took quite a few attempts with #9 to get the right technique. I'm almost right on you with the technique except I have been using a little closer to a speed of 3.7-3.8.