Question
#1
#2
Originally Posted by 05 Bill
I have just started use using my new D A I started
with fine cut cleaner. I have went over the hood
2 times and still I see water spots, the question
how many times can I repeat this step?
thanks Bill
with fine cut cleaner. I have went over the hood
2 times and still I see water spots, the question
how many times can I repeat this step?
thanks Bill
What fine cut cleaner are you using and what pad are you using.
Did you wash and clay the surface first?
Can you provide photos of the water spots of speak of?
#3
Originally Posted by RollingRock
Well, that depends on a number of factors.
What fine cut cleaner are you using and what pad are you using.
Did you wash and clay the surface first?
Can you provide photos of the water spots of speak of?
What fine cut cleaner are you using and what pad are you using.
Did you wash and clay the surface first?
Can you provide photos of the water spots of speak of?
The simple answer to your question, Bill, is that you should be able to keep going across it until you get the water staining out but, that said, I should caveat it with, do it at your own risk.
There's no way for us to be able to tell from here how much you can really work off of there without potentially causing a problem. The clear build on, literally, every vehicle will vary slightly and, as such, there's no golden rule.
What I can tell you is that, if it's stock clear, you've got a long ways to go before you're going to cause a problem while trying to remove the water spotting. #2 is a upper light to medium cutting product that is pretty good. What I like about it is that it doesn't tend to scour (micromar) and breaks down quite well.
Not sure what kind of technique you're utilizing or what kind of prep you did to the paint prior to kicking off on the spots... could you elaborate?
-RP-
#5
Hey Bill,
I had water spots on my hood and used #83 on it and they came out pretty quick. #83 has the most cut you'll want to use with a DA/PC. It is a little harder to learn to use but when you do it works very well.
Having said that I would try a couple more passes with the #2. Good luck!!
Tic
I had water spots on my hood and used #83 on it and they came out pretty quick. #83 has the most cut you'll want to use with a DA/PC. It is a little harder to learn to use but when you do it works very well.
Having said that I would try a couple more passes with the #2. Good luck!!
Tic
#6
I have no experience with this product but if i am not mistaken meg's recommends this product for rotary use only....please someone correct me if i am wrong because the rest of this will be garbage if i am.....but
What speed are you running this at? Water spots need pictures and if they have etched, which they obviously have since you couldnt remove them by claying...you may just have to go with a more aggressive polish. I have seen videos of SSR3 followed by SSR1 removing bird bomb etching....but then again that is a very aggressive method...so with a G100 i would suggest that as your next step if you cant clear it up with fine cut
What speed are you running this at? Water spots need pictures and if they have etched, which they obviously have since you couldnt remove them by claying...you may just have to go with a more aggressive polish. I have seen videos of SSR3 followed by SSR1 removing bird bomb etching....but then again that is a very aggressive method...so with a G100 i would suggest that as your next step if you cant clear it up with fine cut