Short Poorboys Black Hole review/test

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  #16  
Old 04-03-2008 | 08:01 PM
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From: Keller Texas
Originally Posted by torkum
Thanks for the review Rolling Rock One question, is it a machine only application? I have a PC but just wondering.
Torkum

I took this right off Of Speciaty Motorings website....last paragraph..

Scientifically speaking, a black hole is so named because the gravitational forces at its center are so strong that not even light can escape. What does this mean to your car? Well, after using Poorboy’s Black Hole Show Glaze, other people’s eyes will be drawn to the deep gloss of your paint. They won’t be able to pull their gazes away. Who says science can’t be cool?

Poorboy’s Black Hole Show Glaze was developed for dark colored cars. By nature, swirls and imperfections are much more visible on darker colors. Ideally, you’d remove them with various polishing steps. But, you don’t always have the time to go through those polishing steps. That’s when it’s time to reach for Black Hole Show Glaze.

Poorboy’s Black Hole Show Glaze attacks swirls from two directions. First, the gentle cleaners remove deposits that have settled on our paint. It then fills in the imperfections and swirls that are so visible in your dark colored paint. Best of all, it does this in one easy step!

Have you just polished your paint and removed those swirls? Well, Poorboy’s Black Hole Show Glaze can be used to eliminate that last bit of micro-marring and light haze left over from your polishing steps. You’ll really appreciate the added depth and gloss.

Glazes do not offer any protection and do not last long by themselves when exposed to the elements. You can protect that look with either a wax or sealant. We highly recommend Poorboy’s Natty’s Blue Paste Wax or EX Sealant with Carnauba. Both products are fantastic on darker colors and will compliment the look of Black Hole Show Glaze.

Poorboy’s Black Hole Show Glaze applies easily by hand or machine. If working by hand, use a small amount on a foam or microfiber applicator. If using a machine, use a soft foam pad and low speed to apply the product to one panel at a time. Allow it to dry to a haze and buff off with a microfiber towel. It’s that easy!
 
  #17  
Old 04-03-2008 | 09:58 PM
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From: The Bluegrass State
Give us some update on depth and clarity here in a few days on it... while I understand that it did a decent job at cleaning your scuff, I'd be more interested in its 'deepening' abilities (if present).

Thanks for the mini-review... good stuff!
 
  #18  
Old 04-03-2008 | 10:58 PM
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From: Keller Texas
Originally Posted by RockPick
Give us some update on depth and clarity here in a few days on it... while I understand that it did a decent job at cleaning your scuff, I'd be more interested in its 'deepening' abilities (if present).

Thanks for the mini-review... good stuff!
Roger roger....need more sun and more time.
 
  #19  
Old 04-04-2008 | 01:19 AM
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From: CA
So it says apply with a soft foam pad. Would an 8006 be alright still, or should I use a 9006 with it?
 
  #20  
Old 04-04-2008 | 01:46 AM
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From: Keller Texas
Originally Posted by roushstage2
So it says apply with a soft foam pad. Would an 8006 be alright still, or should I use a 9006 with it?
Treat it as a glaze....so use a Finishing pad with it.

I am not as familiar with Megs nomenclature. I think the 9006 is the larger 6.5" pad..."softbuff"???? is that right? If so, that would be the right pad to use with it or the Megs Black Diamond Finish Pad. I can get these locally, they are pretty nice. However, I am a Lake Country kind of dude. I use mostly the VC pads.

For Lake I would use the Black (some call it gray) Finish pad.
 
  #21  
Old 04-04-2008 | 02:53 AM
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From: CA
9006 is the Meguiar's 6.5" finishing pad. I will give it a shot on that pad.
 
  #22  
Old 04-04-2008 | 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RollingRock
I don't think that 3 is 6...however, I have a total of about 15 min experince with the Flex so far. Speed 3 on the Flex isn't that fast at all or at least it doesn't seem that fast. The PB BH is pretty thick stuff, after blotting on the surface, i worked it with using the variable speed trigger (which is super cool btw) and did a 12x12 section. Worked it pretty good. It wasn't wipe on wipe off.

I have never used Megs #9 so I cannot get you an honest comparison.

I had one hour to play with the stuff and I did 2 doors and the pillar and my front QTR panel in 30 min.
I know what you mean, i am no pro on it either but it sure is an awesome tool isnt it RR? I ran across this thread on autopia and used it as the basis of comparing the speeds...based on these facts on the flex vs. udm...with teh udm having more power than just a pc i would say around 3-3.5 would actually be accurate but then again i dont know...check this thread out

http://autopia.org/forum/machine-pol...highlight=flex

Especially reply #17....not like it matters but i am pretty amazed at how smooth the flex is....except when you hit a curve in paint then it will walk you all over the place, or it does me anyway...very hard to control at speed 5 or 6 when hitting curves in the paint, great tool though! i will have to try your methods here when applying the glaze i think im gonna order me up some
 
  #23  
Old 04-04-2008 | 06:43 AM
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From: Northeast PA.
Originally Posted by stud_135

Especially reply #17....not like it matters but i am pretty amazed at how smooth the flex is....except when you hit a curve in paint then it will walk you all over the place, or it does me anyway...very hard to control at speed 5 or 6 when hitting curves in the paint, great tool though! i will have to try your methods here when applying the glaze i think im gonna order me up some
Use the trigger speed control to back down the speeds a bit when you encounter curves or edges.
 
  #24  
Old 04-04-2008 | 07:02 AM
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From: Northeast PA.
Originally Posted by RollingRock
Thanks Boss, those holograms are what I needed a little push on.
Jason,

To be honest, I had a hard time seeing the imperfections in your pics.

Anyhow, keep an eye on the glazed area to see if, and how long it hides the imperfections. If the glaze truly removed the imperfections, then they were not very serious. If they come back, try this...

Have a long look at the imperfections. Take note of direction of severity for the majority of them... meaning, are they mostly horizontal or vertical. Once you establish that, take your Flex, set it at speed 5, and using SSR2.5 and a polishing pad, work several passes back and forth directly "across" the imperfections. Review the area, give the paint a little time to cool down if it is warm/hot, and then decide if if you need to go up/down the scale with product/pad or machine speed.

Focus on one small area that is the worst, until you know what it will take to remove, or at least reduce the imperfections to your satisfaction. Work that area using the same method. Once it starts to look better, proceed to a more conventional method of working a larger area

Then come back and re-glaze the area.
 
  #25  
Old 04-04-2008 | 10:35 AM
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From: Spring Hill, KS
Originally Posted by RollingRock
I am going to try and get around to trying White Diamond this weekend too on the wife's car.
I might as well order this product now as most of PB's products are very nice...
 



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